Pelican Parts Forums - Carrera CV Boot Replacement

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- - Carrera CV Boot Replacement (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/306184-carrera-cv-boot-replacement.html)

Have any of you used a split type CV boot kits for temporary repair...?

Basically, the boot is made to overlap and bolt (weight might be an issue?) together at the seem -enabling a quick (and easy) repair.

Jascha

Michael,

To disassemble the outboard CV joint of a welded assembly; tap off the tin cover (it may have some sealant and is pressed on), tip the axle shaft until you can remove a ball bearing, repeat for the others and then the inner race (still attached to the axle shaft) and the cage will come out.

Reassemble mostly dry in reverse order. I would put the partial assembly (stub axle with outer race, balls, cage and axle shaft) in the freezer to get very cold. I would heat the tin cover with some sealant in place to around 100C and quickly install it over the cold CV joint and clamp it in place with C-clamps, vice, etc. Once things have set for a while, grease the CV joint. I use a small hand “grease gun” that has a ~3 mm plastic hose. The hose fits between the cage and races so you can get grease inside. Articulating the CV joint will spread the grease. Next install the new boot and clamps.

Now you are ready to install the inboard CV joint; clamps first, then boot, then tin and finally the CV joint (and end cap if used). I grease the completely assembled CV joint from the end cap end. Use the CV bolts and some nuts to get the tin covers clamped in place (with the bolt holes lined up!) right away and let set.

Jascha, I don’t recall seeing split boots like the swing axle VW and 356. If they are available please post a link. That would make an OK emergency solution. This won’t work for anything other than a slow-speed emergency fix. The split boots on a VW or 356 don’t rotate with the axle.

I don’t think this thread has the links to the other important threads.
Here they are.
Pelican rcecale, Randy’s classic thread.
”Reconstructing Constant Velocity (CV) Joints”

“CV Joints”
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/62514-cv-joint-disassembly.html
The following articles are a good reference for Lobro CV joints from Warren Hall:
http://volksweb.relitech.com/cvjoints.htm
http://www.type2.com/bartnik/cvjoints.htm
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=62514&highlight=joint+% 2Aassembly
For those copying & pasting, here is the link to this thread.
”Carrera CV Boot Replacement“

Best,
Grady

Here one such place that sells (on eBay as well) the split type CV boot.

http://www.thecvman.com/

As you noted the concern should be if the high traveling speed (V) would unbalance the axle rotation via the centripetal added force (F=mV2/r) of the boot matting hardware ( <100 mph is probably OK...)

Regards,

Jascha

Grady sez...." The split boots on a VW or 356 don’t rotate with the axle".

How's that???

- Wil

Wil,

All the 356s and early VWs have swing axles. The axle
rotates inside the axle tube. The axle boot (red arrow) allows
for the angular movement of the axle tube relative to the
transmission side cover. It doesn’t rotate.
"
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1161031839.jpg "
© 1965; Elfrink, Henry; Porsche Technical Manual.

The original equipment axle boots were not split and are
installed during the transmission assemble. Only replacement
boots were split.

I suppose there are later VWs with Lobro CV joints that may
have aftermarket (or even VW) split boots. I just haven’t
seen one. If there is a suitable split boot, we all should know.
I can see getting gas in “Last Chance” Nevada and smelling
CV grease on a heat exchanger.:eek:

Best,
Grady:)

Ahhh.....indeed...I didn't follow originally....makes perfect sense.....

- Wil

Just did mine a couple of weeks ago. The tin on the outboard joint didn't want to move for anything and I didn't want to mess it up so i just left. it. I however clean the joint. Wipe out as much grease as you can. I then used brake cleaner swished the joint around a bit and dumped it out. I did this several time and after a bit the joint was no longer showing signs of grease. I am sure some was stuck someplace.
When time to repack cut off just the tip of the grease pack. You can then stick the pack down in the joint and slide it between the carrier and the outer race of the joint. You can the squeeze the grease right in the joint. After doing that I used a small syringe that I go from the drug store. I cut the end off so the whole end was open. I filled the syringe with grease and then squirted it into the joint. This worked fairly well to get the grease down into the joint. Then once you can't get anymore to go that way just start poking at the grease. Poke, poke, poke it will eventually work its way into the joint. I got both packs of grease into the outboard and inboard joints using this method. I wish I had pictures but I am still cleaning frigging grease off my self.

Jascha,

Thanks.

Well, that reseller (I think) is:

CV Restoration
9387 Spring Water Path
Jessup, MD 20794
1-800-338-2326 M-S, 8-6ET

This is probably some flea-bay who just turns the order. I suspect PelicanParts may be able to buy this and sell below this $25 retail.

I don’t see how people can stand that site it is so difficult to navigate.

The good news is that there is an emergency boot replacement. The bad news is everyone needs to look for this on a PPI because it is a very temporary fix at best.

Best,
Grady

clamp tightening

Can someone show a pic of the new clamps for the cv boot after install. I'm not sure exactly how to install these. How do you get them tight? Does the small tab pull through the slots like on the OEM clamps? Do I need a special tool to pinch the little tab sticking up?

thanks

Tommy

Not sure which clamps you have but the Lobro kits I used had the type of clamp that needed a crimp pliers for this purpose. It was $10 at Advanced Auto. Here is a better picture of the clamps I installed.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1163024765.jpg

yes, that's the type of clamp. so you don't bend the little tab from the underside up through one of the slots?

2 of my kits came with what looks like a "hose" clamp. the kind with the screw on it that tightens the clamp. any downside to using those?

Hopefully Grady will chime in on this one about the screw type clamps. The original ones that I took off were different than the new ones. This is what the crimper looks like.Crimper

Actually, if you do bend the narrow tab from the underside (over the top portion) you get an added degree of security for the clamp. The toothed edges provide the needed “hook” to facilitate the crimping. So if the toothed portion does not hold (slips) the bent tab keeps the ring from snapping open (hope this makes sense)

As noted in previous posts on the subject make sure that the crimp is not located in front of one of the holes on the hub. Center the crimp between the holes or you wont get the bolts back in.

Quote:

Originally posted by tommy914
2 of my kits came with what looks like a "hose" clamp. the kind with the screw on it that tightens the clamp. any downside to using those?

Any comments on this question?

Question, I'm in the final stages of assembling the inboard joints and noticed that the cage has a different profile on the edges, one has a chamfer and one doesn't. Which edge goes towards the axle? Does it matter? My car is a 1980 SC.

Thanks

Skidder,

Welcome to the board. Are you talking about the cage or the piece that slides on to the axle? The piece that slides on to the axle will only go one way, the chamfer goes onto the axle first or the cir-clip will not fit on the axle. Tried it both ways when I did mine.

Thanks for the welcome!

This is the part I am referring to which I call the cage. The arrow points to the edge I am concerned with, one edge (pictured) is square while the other has an internal chamfer. Does the chamfered edge face the axle shaft or does it face the tranny hub? It looks like I can see the chamfer on your finished axle prior to grease telling me you put the chamfer on the tranny side of the joint.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169063692.jpg

Thanks

Michael, great post - great pics! I'm going to give this a try B4 dropping the $$ to replace my driver side axle. My only concern is the age/mileage of my orig axle with the torn boot. Unless things look really worn when I get in there, I'm hoping a good cleaning and repack will do the trick. I've got 147,000 on the clock but records indicate that the passenger side axle was replaced at 110,000. How many miles on your axles?