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Join Date: Aug 2007
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While the engine is out, what to do?

What are some things to consider doing while the engine is out of the car (911 SC) for a clutch? I suppose yet another attempt at soundproofing is in order even though the last ended up falling on top of the motor in about a week.

Old 08-24-2007, 12:25 PM
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Change the ring gear and maybe even the starter.
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Old 08-24-2007, 12:32 PM
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oil thermostat o-ring.
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Old 08-24-2007, 12:35 PM
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search by "while I'm in there" or something like that. There are several discussions including one I started back in 2003 or 2004. Some folks have shared spreadsheets of information. It's a pretty long list of things you'll want to consider.
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Old 08-24-2007, 12:46 PM
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If I remember correctly, there is a whole chapter on this in Wayne's 101 projects book. Mine is currently on loan, so I can't help. But if you don't already have the book, now would be a good time to pick one up.
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Old 08-24-2007, 12:48 PM
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Engine will be out for clutch...what else should I do?

here's the one I referred to.
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Old 08-24-2007, 12:56 PM
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That's a helluva to-do list but it gets my mind off the premature clutch failure. Didn't expect to see the engine out for a long time to come. Thanks for the good info
Old 08-24-2007, 01:11 PM
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twin turbos
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Old 08-24-2007, 01:29 PM
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or nitrous.
Old 08-24-2007, 01:32 PM
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Valve adjust is so easy with the engine out. If you are even close to needing a valve adjustment, do it now.

How are the plugs?

Change the oil pressure light switch at the front of the engine, right next to the thermostat. It cost $6.95, When it start leaking, it leaks bad. It was the reason for my last engine drop.
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Old 08-24-2007, 01:38 PM
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Old 08-24-2007, 01:56 PM
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Polish the intake ports and runners. Balance the crank and shuffle pin the case. I hope you can tell I'm kidding.

Remove the darned noise pad and sand/paint the fire wall. Intake runner boot replacement.
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Old 08-24-2007, 02:35 PM
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Rear Main Seal
Front Trans Seal
CHT sensor
Oil temp sending unit
Top dead sensor + Speed sensor
Clean and paint engine tin
Oil return tube O-Rings
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Last edited by Por_sha911; 08-24-2007 at 03:30 PM..
Old 08-24-2007, 03:23 PM
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I did the same thing to my SC about 6 months ago. I went over a few extra things while I had the opportunity.

A thorough cleaning
Clutch - I went with a light weight alloy ($900 instead of $700 AUD)
Plug wires
Exhaust - removed heater shields, replaced gaskets, and painted
Plugs
Valve Adjust
Fuel filter
Engine/trans mounts
Powder coating ($180 for tinware, fan, fan shroud, injector tubes, engine brace and other bits
Gaskets - as many as I could get to
Main seal (The one next to the clutch behind the fly wheel)
New fly wheel bolts
New injector rubbers
New rubber hoses and injector seals and seats
Fan belt
Chain tensioner oil lines

All up including the clutch I spent under $2K in OZ dollars. I had some help from friends to remove and replace the engine and I've had some great feedback from a recent concourse day.

One regret - I wish I had changed the fly wheel as well.

Some photos of the finished product

Cheers
Kent

81 SC
Ford Falcon XR6 Turbo (245kw 500Nm)
Ford Territory (192kw 400Nm)

Old 08-25-2007, 04:15 AM
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On a budget (I always am) I would look for oil leaks and fix them (even if it means splitting the case) and replace and O-rings and cheap seals on top of the engine (oil thermo-stat, main rear, and any crsh washer on oil lines that might be leaking).

Other than that I would only remove and paint the engine tin, same valve covers (and polish them flat). Adjust the valves and drive it.

And inspect the fuel lines. In some ways this could be the most important issue. A few oil leaks won't hurt anything. A fuel leak will likely destroy your car, and your fuel lines are probably 25+ years old now.
Old 08-25-2007, 05:04 AM
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Beautiful!

Quote:
Originally Posted by kentSC View Post
I did the same thing to my SC about 6 months ago. I went over a few extra things while I had the opportunity.

A thorough cleaning
Clutch - I went with a light weight alloy ($900 instead of $700 AUD)
Plug wires
Exhaust - removed heater shields, replaced gaskets, and painted
Plugs
Valve Adjust
Fuel filter
Engine/trans mounts
Powder coating ($180 for tinware, fan, fan shroud, injector tubes, engine brace and other bits
Gaskets - as many as I could get to
Main seal (The one next to the clutch behind the fly wheel)
New fly wheel bolts
New injector rubbers
New rubber hoses and injector seals and seats
Fan belt
Chain tensioner oil lines

All up including the clutch I spent under $2K in OZ dollars. I had some help from friends to remove and replace the engine and I've had some great feedback from a recent concourse day.

One regret - I wish I had changed the fly wheel as well.

Some photos of the finished product

Cheers
Kent

81 SC
Ford Falcon XR6 Turbo (245kw 500Nm)
Ford Territory (192kw 400Nm)

Gorgeous! Great work there!
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Old 08-25-2007, 05:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PorschePilot View Post
Change the oil pressure light switch at the front of the engine, right next to the thermostat. It cost $6.95, When it start leaking, it leaks bad. It was the reason for my last engine drop.
+1, mine is leaking like the Titanic. It is going to be a PITA to swap that one.
Old 08-25-2007, 06:34 AM
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I'm trying to fix my autoheat and working on the flapper boxes is a huge pain. I would clean them up while the engine is out. If you happen to snap a stud it won't be as big a deal to drill and tap, and add a new stud.
Old 12-15-2012, 01:04 PM
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For Sure::::: THE FUEL LINES!!!!!!!!!!!! Any aging rubber.....

Lots of info here to be had on just how far you want to go!

BEST!

Doyle
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Old 12-15-2012, 02:49 PM
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Mono balls on banana arms. Easy with engine out!

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Old 12-15-2012, 02:59 PM
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