Progress and Setback today with the Project 959 (Monday Oct 22nd)...

[Wayne 962]

Okay, so today, I was determined to finish up the door panels, and complete that project for good. Two things - I couldn't find any good hardware to use on the door panels, so I had to use the old hardware store crap that was placed on there from the painters who painted the car. Odd, but the hardware on the left doesn't even come close to matching the right. Also, the door pocket hinge on the right is secured with two screws, and the one on the left is only secured with one screw. There is only one hole on the right, which makes me think that this is a factory error. Seeing all of these inconsistencies makes me think that maybe the painters weren't all that bad after all, but maybe the cars were assembled more "prototype-like" than I though, using different hardware and different procedures depending upon what day it was on the assembly floor. I've heard that these cars were assembled not by Porsche, but by the Baur coachworks, so who knows.

Anyways, I have ordered all of the correct hardware from Porsche, and I will replace all of the odd screws and washers from both the left and the right door panels with the proper brand new stuff from Porsche. This new stuff is probably mass-produced in China these days, but at least it will be "correct" as per original Porsche specifications. The parts diagrams also call for a moisture barrier in there - I saw no evidence that there was ever one in there, and also a grommet for the window switches (didn't see that either). I have ordered three of these, and will install them next time the door panel comes off.

So anyways, I have to wait for a this new hardware to come in before I can "close out" the door panels and door refurb projects. On a good note, the door locks now work perfectly, and I ordered the last remaining 959 door lock button from Germany - should be here in a day or so - the white lettering on mine is slightly worn out. Just for your own information, here's the check list on the doors:

- Lock cylinder locks and unlocks - CHECK
- Electronic doors lock when key is turned - CHECK
- Microswitch for electronic locks works - CHECK
- All windows and window switches work - CHECK
- Mirrors for both sides work, and I replaced the missing mushroom cap - CHECK
- Moisture barrier installed - CHECK
- Door opens and closes smoothly - CHECK
- Door pockets snap open and closed well - CHECK
- Door speakers have been replaced and work well - CHECK
- Window switch retainers have been replaced with upgraded Stainless steel ones - CHECK
- Door stay functions properly (wasn't really a problem) - CHECK
- Inside door handle is operational and functional - CHECK
- Door pockets secured with proper hardware - PENDING
- Door light switches functional and tested - CHECK
- Door lock rods and mechanism lubed and tested - CHECk
- Door seal inspected and good - CHECK
- All hardware checked and replaced if missing - CHECK

So, when the new hardware comes in a few days, we'll be able to complete the door projects and check them off completely.

I found a much better license plate blank frame while cleaning out my garage last night - got it at the literature meet a few years ago:

[Wayne 962]

Okay, with the door stuff done, I started to think about how to fix the turbo boost problem. For those of you who read the previous threads, I was experiencing boost from the 2nd turbo, but not the 1st one, and driving around, it sounded like the wastegate was stuck open. I didn't think it was the wastegate, because that would have affected both turbos, but I wasn't too sure, so I figured I would start taking things apart and seeing if I found anything obvious.

First step is to remove the gold-colored panels that cover the exhaust and the twin intercoolers:





The left and right panels are made out of carbon-kevlar, and the center panel is metal (not sure if it's aluminum or steel, I didn't look too closely). All three are painted this cool, gold color which makes the whole engine bay really stand out. Those two yellow things on each side of the engine bay are flaps for the oil doors (left is oil for the shock leveling system, right is the standard oil-door, like on my 1972 911). Lift the flap and the door opens.

Here is the underside of the right side panel, you need to disconnect the cable that goes to the doors from each panel prior to removal:

[Wayne 962]

Here's what the engine bay looks like with those panels removed:

[Wayne 962]

Now, does anyone see anything amiss in that last photo? When I removed the left panel, I said "AH HA!"

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Here's a different angle on that left-hand intercooler:





So, basically, my left hand-side (lower RPM) turbo charger was letting all of the air out before it even reached the intercooler. Very bad for performance, as you might have imagined. So, reconnected this (took about five minutes):




and took the car out for a drive. Well, the boost was there up to about 1.5 - 1.6 on my in-dash boost gauge. I'm not sure if it's still running in default mode or not - I need to do more testing. Default mode happens when there is a computer problem, and it limits the amount of boost to 1.5 bar (.5 additional boost). The car is supposed to run at .9 to 1.2 additional boost, but I didn't get a chance to test that. I swung back to the shop to pick up Scott, and then a loud alarm indicating low oil started going on and off. It kept doing this, so I decided not to ignore it and head back. I parked the car not knowing if we have completely fixed the problem or not, but now we have a new problem to worry about. While the oil light was going off (and these cars also have a BIG LOUD PIERCING ALARM NOISE that accompanies the red alert lamp - something they should have had on the regular production cars if you ask me), the oil pressure was reading quite fine - I'm not sure what is causing this problem. There is no oil tank level gauge, but perhaps there is a sender. I checked the oil level and it was at the low scale, so I added a quart. Well, then it went well above the high mark, so I might have to empty a bit out - I guess the levels are quite different than a production 911. Still, with the additional oil in there, the alarm went off. Maybe there's a sensor near one of the oil lines for the turbos - this thing has four oil pumps I think.

So, success in finding that a simple hose was disconnected and causing me to lose boost. But, the oil warning lamp is both annoying and disturbing. So one thing fixed, and another breaks. But, as Scott reminded me tonight, I knew this going into this project. I've been spending a lot of time on this car lately, I think it's time to take a small break. We're heading to SEMA next week and then to Daytona for Rensport Reunion, and I have to finish up some things before we go. Can't play all the time, right?

-Wayne

[Jeff Alton]

Those are some great pictures.

Glad you found the "mechanical issue" with the boost to be an easy fix, too bad about the electronics. There must be a sensor on the tank or somewhere that may have lost it's ground?

Cheers

[slodave]

Can I borrow the car while you're gone? I won't drive it in the rain!

[RWebb]

may all your fixes be that easy!

[LakeCleElum]

Thax for the pic's Wayne.....1st time I've seen closeups under the bonnet of a 959.....Impressive packaging.........

[Gogar]

I think you should chalk up that day as a success, though. Great pics!

Is there evidence that the driver's door has been off before? All the things you talk about (missing vapor barrier, odd size-shape hardware, repaint evidence) suggest something not-so attractive. Like, maybe, a replaced or damage-repaired door? How do the mounting bolts on the hinges look?
Even if the doors are specialty-metal or something, it is possible.

I only ask because when I went through the doors on my aubergine-to-black '72, I couldn't figure out why the driver's door was such a PITA and had weird hardware in weird places, until I found the original-color (neither aubergine NOR black) overspray on the inside of the door.

[Emission]

Keep these posts coming. The 959 fascinates me.

[Jeff Alton]

Wayne, is the area circled in blue below as rough as it looks in the pic?? Strange as the rest of the areas hidden by the panels from view seem so much more "finished". It really is great to see all the details of these rare cars, thanks for sharing.



Cheers

[Wayne 962]

Originally Posted by Gogar

Is there evidence that the driver's door has been off before? All the things you talk about (missing vapor barrier, odd size-shape hardware, repaint evidence) suggest something not-so attractive. Like, maybe, a replaced or damage-repaired door? How do the mounting bolts on the hinges look?

The door has been apart - I don't think it's been off the hinges though - that would involve removing the wire harness, and some items inside the door look factory, like they haven't been messed with *that* much (like the "gooey black stuff" that holds the alarm wire harness to the inside of the door).

-Wayne

[Wayne 962]

Originally Posted by Jeff Alton

Wayne, is the area circled in blue below as rough as it looks in the pic?? Strange as the rest of the areas hidden by the panels from view seem so much more "finished". It really is great to see all the details of these rare cars, thanks for sharing.

Cheers

You have to remember that these cars were essentially homologation prototypes for Grubbe B racing qualification - there are many "prototype" style parts on them. Actually, in fact, I'm surprised at how polished all of the stuff looks considering the fact that they only made 275 or so of them. Here is a closeup of what you're talking about. The "roughness" that you're referring to is actually a heat shield that is made out of some type of metal / cloth / material, and molded around the outside of the latch. The latch itself is attached to the bumper, which is quite a complicated piece of composite. I heard that Dieter at Andial got rear-ended once when out driving a customer car - the bumper was destroyed and a new one from Porsche (they had only one left) was a mere $100K. I think they had Getty Design make up a replacement instead for that particular car (cost $25K I think). This is all 2nd-hand stories.

The car is fascinating to me, as all of this stuff is 100% new to me as well. Pretty cool to explore this "ultimate" 911.

-Wayne

[Jeff Alton]

Actually, in fact, I'm surprised at how polished all of the stuff looks considering the fact that they only made 275 or so of them.
The car is fascinating to me, as all of this stuff is 100% new to me as well. Pretty cool to explore this "ultimate" 911.

-Wayne

That is what I am saying, it just caught my eye as the rest of the "hidden" parts seem so well finished! I never considered that it would be a heat sheild! But yes, I agree, pretty darn cool to get to look "behind the scenes" of one of these machines!!

Keep it up

Cheers

[Rich Lambert]

How do you change the spark plugs?

[jwetering]

Screw Daytona Wayne - we all want to see if you can get the boost and oil level issues fixed. Priorities man!

Seriously though, if that boost issue turns out to be as easy of a fix as it looks, then you got what you deserve my friend.

Happy for you, now go ahead and take that break.

Thanks for keeping us posted, cool threads.

[island911]

So cool. ..Like a 962 daily driver.

[Wayne 962]

Originally Posted by Rich Lambert

How do you change the spark plugs?

From underneath the car - kindof like a Boxster or 996...

-Wayne

[Wayne 962]

Okay, the electrical diagrams show that there is an oil pressure switch, and oil pressure sender, and an oil level switch. I suspect that the oil level switch is in the tank, as the parts diagrams seem to indicate it there:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/PartsLookup/HTML/E_959_KATALOG/104-05-Frame4.htm

The oil pressure switch is probably part of the oil pressure sending unit, just like on the regular 911 engine. Actually, that's right, and it uses a regular 911 part:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/PartsLookup/HTML/E_959_KATALOG/101-10-Frame4.htm

See number 44 and 45. Getting to them seems as difficult as it is on the 911 engine!

I think what I need to do is hotwire the oil tank level sender and monitor it while driving to see if it is triggering a fault. If not, then it's probably the $6.50 oil pressure switch on the top of the engine. I don't think it's an actual oil pressure problem, because the oil pressure gauge reads okay.

-Wayne

[dtw]

Originally Posted by Wayne at Pelican Parts

You have to remember that these cars were essentially homologation prototypes for Grubbe B racing qualification - there are many "prototype" style parts on them.

Agreed 100%. One thing that really surprised me when I started eyeballing one really closely is the wheels. They are works of art, to be sure, but the finish is, surprisingly, not what you'd expect on a high-zoot supercar. Just makes me more fascinated with them, though.