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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ontario, California
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Penetrating Fluid effectiveness
I know a lot of you swear by PB Blaster and this may not be the correct forum to post this information but, you may want to try this next time you have a rusted or seized nut/bolt. (Courtesy of a friend on another board)
The April/May edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and tranny fluid! Product used..........Force required to loosen bolt. None ................. 516 pounds .. WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25 Price per ounce PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35 Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21 Kano Kroil ......... 106 pounds .. $0.75 ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10 The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio). Last edited by ljowdy; 12-26-2007 at 08:06 AM.. |
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Cambridge, MA
Posts: 44,200
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thanks for posting this. did they specify type of ATF? something like a basic Autozone brand or Dexron II?
I've got a PB Blaster trigger spray can and will try this on my extremely rusty 4Runner, a perfect test subject. I've taken out the entire front suspension except for the upper A-arms and torsion bars and need to get those out this week. So far, PB Blaster, a MAPP torch and a Sawzall have all worked great for taking it apart.
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Location: Ontario, California
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Just any old store brand ATF will do, I can' remember if my friend said it was Mercon II or Dexron II but according to the article, ANY ATF works
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Portland Oregon
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Interesting subject,...
![]() The very first thing I would tell anyone wishing to play "chemist" is to be VERY careful when handling solvents such as acetone by wearing neoprene gloves and working in a very well ventilated adea. These are very toxic chemicals and the long-term effects of exposure are cumulative. Without question, the vast majority of effective penetrants are only sold to the auto repair trades and aviation shops; the consumer lineup of such products are largely a placebo by comparison. I would recommend (in no order): Zep penetrating oil Kroil Wurth Rost-Off I would strongly recommend the above products as that ATF-acetone DIY mix might wind up costing you FAR more than .10/oz.
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Steve Weiner Rennsport Systems Portland Oregon (503) 244-0990 porsche@rennsportsystems.com www.rennsportsystems.com |
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Steve,
I don't believe anyone will be "playing chemist" That has already been done by members of the Machinists Workshop publication. I will agree, Acetone has the ability to remove everything from fingernail polish to automotive paint but, anyone with a real stubborn nut/bolt and using reasonable precautions may benefit from the magazines analyzation of the penetrating oil products and the purported results and effectiveness. |
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I agree with Steve on The wurth Rust-off. Did they try any other penetrants like Gibbs ??
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Robert Williams 70' 911T |
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Wildman Emeritus
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Chitown Burbs
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I've had very good luck with Kroil but the odor is not one of my favorites.
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Mike Andrew 1980 SCWDP 2024 Suby Forester 2018 BMW X1- Wife's 2000 Boxter - Sold |
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Michael Delaney wanna-be
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Just used PB Blaster on some very rusted exhaust studs and did not break even one. I have a question though on really rusted nuts...when using these products should you use a wire brush and remove as much rust as possible before spraying? I was thinking the rust may help the PB Blaster or whatever adhere so I did not remove it and they all came off unbroken.
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Buck '88 Coupe, '87 Cab, '88 535i sold, '19 GLC 300 DD Warren Hall, gone but not forgotten |
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I''ve been using Kano -Kroil for years and have found that it works great.
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Gone but not forgotten - 1980 Porsche 911SC w/ -22mm/28mm Torsion Bars | Custom Valved Bilsteins | 22mm/21mm Carrera Sway Bars | Elephant Poly/Bronze Bushings | Carrera Brakes | AJ-USA Brake Cooling | Carrera Oil Cooler w/ Fan | Elephant Strut Brace | Oh, and no ABS or PSM or A/C |
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Irrationally exuberant
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Wow, I'm surprise Liquid Wrench did better than PB Blaster. (But nothing beats PB Blaster's smell for keeping my sweetheart out of the man cave/garage...)
-Chris
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I hate it when I run out of liquidwench... now I have a solution! Now where is that acetone?
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JP '76 911s Ice Green Metallic bone stock |
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I'm actually glad to see that Liquid Wrench works as well, or better, than the others since it is cheap and very easy to find. Since I'm bored this morning I looked it up on the internet. Who knew they made so many types!
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Please help the MFI community keep the Ultimate MFI resources thread and the Mechanical fuel injection resource index up to date. Send me a PM and I'll add your materials and suggestions. ![]() 1973 911E Targa (MFI) |
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A friend of mine in the aviation industry turned me on to Mouse Milk. http://www.mousemilk.com. It's incredible stuff and works very well.
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1984 Targa |
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It might interest you that the Canadian Military uses a product from Crown #6030.
It works...does not smell too bad and is approved for aircraft. Like any solvent based chemical. it will burn if subjected to fire, but if used correctly, a little will do the job. Bob
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Bob Hutson |
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Join Date: Jul 2007
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Personal experience, LW is garbage. WD40 is useless. I have been using PB for years, and still continue to.
FYI Steve, I did a side-by-side test on the Zep you sent me (thank you!) and PB, and I didn't notice an improvement over the PB. Perhaps the results varied with longer sitting, etc., but for my stuff, I just didn't see it. I've used Berryman's B-12 Chemtool for degreasing, but I've noticed that it also make a great clean-out agent also. Must be the Acetone / Toluene / Methanol mix. ![]() Seriously though, PB, clean w/ B-12 (watch the paint it WILL attack it quickly), re-apply with PB (repeat as required over 1-2 nights) and it's usually no broken studs. However, what I HAVE found on non-pcars is at the point you need to leave it soaking over multiple nights, the threads are usually gone on stuff like exhaust studs, etc., and you're better off planning a replacement anyway. As always, YMMV. Thanks for the info!
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Fred Hurder Jr For Tech Questions: '84 911 Carrera Cabriolet (US) Weltmeister Chip, Fabspeed Euro Pre-Muffler, M&K 1-in / 1-out Muffler 22 ERP /29 Sander Hollow T-Bars, Bilstein HD Struts / Sport Shocks ERP Poly-Bronze Bearings (A-Arms & Spring Plates), Stock Swaybars Turbo Tie Rods, '92 C2 5-Spoke wheels w/ 1" adapters, Drilled Zimmermans Yes, I drive mine as much as possible. If it's >32° & sunny, I've got the top down. ![]() |
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Somatic Negative Optimist
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Wench Liquid is good for penetration
![]() Another one I like is "Moovit" here in Canada. ![]()
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JP '76 911s Ice Green Metallic bone stock |
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Large Registered Member
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+1 on Kano Aero Kroil. I used it for many years while operating my former aircraft restoration business. This stuff was pure magic!!! I would soak what ever seized bolt, screw, or nut overnight. Next day it would turn as if you had just put it on!
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