Masking & Painting Fuchs Questions

[rbuswell]

My Fuchs wheels (16 inch 6s & 7s) are close to ready for paint. The PO had painted them with several coats of gloss paint with different colors (yuk!). I have removed the paint all the way to the metal. I also had one pretty serious curb gash that came out completely with some sanding using lightweight wet'n'dry paper. I was amazed.

I went with the cnielsen style "scotch brite" method (you remember the car on a budget cnielsen built that was featured in Excellence a few months ago) and I really like how the outside (anodizing removed) looks with the scotch brite rub down. BTW, when removing the anodizing, leave the Easy Off oven spray (yellow can) on until it's almost totally dry before you clean it off with a rag and cold water and also remember that you don't actually use 3M Scotch Brite brand scrubbing pads but Norton #0 Fine synthetic steel wool pads to buff out the aluminum.

I will be painting the entire center like original for an '82 SC and not leave the pedals unpainted like several guys have done. I just like the original look better for my car than the earlier look.

I have two questions

• How do the DIY guys mask the outside area so the paint edges are perfectly round and don't allow any bleed through seepage under the tape? Is there a special product and/or tool for making sure it is perfectly round and doesn't bleed?
• I also wanted to know what the concensus is for the best paint brand and type for priming and painting. I really like the Wurth Self-etching primer and the Wurth Satin Black Trim Paint but I'm concerned that it isn't tough enough. Bob Tilton mentioned VHT brand paints and they make a satin black wheel paint that is very reasonably priced (about $9 plus shipping on one website). If that's the best does it still need to be primed?

Unfortunately the threads for the Scotch Brite wheel projects are very long and I didn't find any other mention of either of these issues. If it's buried in the threads and I'm not seeing it I apologize. I don't have my USB cable for uploading pics but frankly there isn't much to see. I'll be happy to do it if it would help when I get the cable at the office tomorrow.

[snbush67]

3m painters tape works great. clean lines no bleed.

[stealthn]

There are many, many, many threads on this, search is your friend.

I used black electrical tape to get the right curves, then painters tape on top. Wurth Satin Black here.

[Super_Dave_D]

I had great results using electrical tape for the mask edge.

Rustoleum Satin Black 7777 - Home Depot

[911Freak]

Your local "Auto body Paint" supply shop sells what is called "blue fine line" it is extremely flexable, and will not "edge-loft" from normal heat or from being taped in a circle, like masking tape does/ It comes in widths from 1/16 to 1/2" I would suggest using 1/8" and cover over that with a good quality (3M blue or Green) masking tape. This will ensure you have a perfect edge for your wheels.. Masking tape lifts when taped in a circle with closed radious like wheels...if not immediatly within short time especially if it's extremely cold or above 75degrees...

FWIW~
I always use SEM brand paint, it's just as high quality as the others mentioned, but my experience (15+yrs) doing autobody painting (former career) the combonation of excellent prep, high quality masking, and quality paint products will ensure a finish that lasts a long time, holds up to the elements and will resist chipping...

The (9999) black is made from a very old formula of GM Black.. as there are several types of black: red/black, green/black, yellow/black, blue/black etc. Why is this important? Well as paint oxidizes these sub-tones factor into the longevity of the tone in the paint.
As red oxidizes fast, a couple of the stable Blacks are either BL/Bk and Gr/Bk.

The GM 99 is one of the purest form of black

[joefrantz]

Roger

Here are some options from another recent thread on the same topic.

Joe

Masking Fuchs for painting centers - share your masking tips

[roodog911]

Roger,

Wayne's 101 Projects book has some helpful information on polishing and and painting in project 100. It suggests the use of a "blue plastic tape" under the masking tape, it apparently bends and stretches easily to conform to the curves. This might be what 911Freak is referring to as "blue fine line"

joefrantz's link above is also helpful with some great pictures...

Willie

Willie

[Darrell E]

I once had a master body and paint guy tell me that Krylon satin black BBQ paint works best and matches the original gloss/color almost perfectly.

[rgrimm]

+1 on the black electrical tape. Extremely flexible.

I used Rustoleum Satin BLack #7777. Said to be very close to the original gloss, and I can't tell the difference. Going on the third year and no problems...

[Wil Ferch]

+1 on plastic style electrical tape and Rustoleum #7777. See my posts including "Economy Fuchs RSR finish".

[kilodawg]

Agree with Wil with one addition.

For masking the outer painted edge to the lip I used blue painters tape because it tends to track a straight line around the rim better than the electrical tape and as a result I found it easier to get a consistent line. The electrical tape does the contours around the petals great. Neither should give you any bleed under the tape.

Good luck!

Here's a pic of the first one I did. Like with most things there is a learning curve. My last one went fastest and came out best.

[rbuswell]

Originally Posted by stealthn

There are many, many, many threads on this, search is your friend.

I used black electrical tape to get the right curves, then painters tape on top. Wurth Satin Black here.

Originally Posted by joefrantz

Roger

Here are some options from another recent thread on the same topic.

Joe

Masking Fuchs for painting centers - share your masking tips

Thanks gents. This is great stuff. I still didn't see an answer to the question of whether they should be primered or not.

I'm not sure if there's something wrong with my computer but I very seldom find these threads even with obvious searches like "fuchs masking" or things on that order. I don't know what Google charges to add an internal search engine to a website but I wonder if Wayne has looked into it. I really struggle with this and getting flamed when a search doesn't work makes me hesitate to ask questions. I guess I'd like to encourage the Pelicans to NOT assume that since a search worked for you, that it works for everyone.

[kilodawg]

I found that priming definitely helps. I used a Rustoleum metal primer which worked great and was compatible with the satin black #7777

[roodog911]

Roger , the 101 Projects article I mentioned earlier,on refinishing wheels (#100), recommends a light coat of self etching primer followed by a light sanding.

The self etching primer helps the paint adhere ...

[joefrantz]

I used SEM black self etching primer under Wurth Satin Black. I sanded the areas to be painted with 800 grit before the primer. You want light coats to prevent too much paint build-up. Carefully unmask when the paint is just slightly set to minimize the "edge" between the painted and unpainted areas.

Joe

[Wil Ferch]

kilodawg:

Your painting is superb....one small problem, however, Porsche never painted the recesses of the lug nuts..and also never painted the backside of the rims where they mate up to the hub. In both cases paint can "compress" like a soft gasket, and the lug nuts can come loose. Even 1/3 turn of lost compression can spell disaster.

I'd remove the paint from the lug recesses...

[JFairman]

Sand with 400, put in the sun to get the wheels warm and spray a tack coat and a light coat of zinc chromate primer, followed with whatever you decide.
I've used Russell epoxy satin black spray paint, and PJ1 satin black motorcycle engine case paint. Both have worked well and last.

I've used the Russell satin black epoxy spray paint on the aluminum trim piece that goes under the rear quarter windows on a 911 with good success too.

[calling911]

Originally Posted by Wil Ferch

kilodawg:

Your painting is superb....one small problem, however, Porsche never painted the recesses of the lug nuts..and also never painted the backside of the rims where they mate up to the hub. In both cases paint can "compress" like a soft gasket, and the lug nuts can come loose. Even 1/3 turn of lost compression can spell disaster.

I'd remove the paint from the lug recesses...

I hate to revive this thread but for anyone reading this Wil is RIGHT ON. I did this once and would up in BIG trouble on a race course. I barely made it off the track in time.. could have done some serious damage to my wheels (wasnt worried about me.. just the wheels).. I'll NEVER paint the lug recesses again. Or, I'll clean them out. Here is the really bad part.. they might be fine until you drive hard and start using the brakes... when they get hot the paint gets soft and the lugs come loose..

blah blah.. just dont do it or you will hurt your wheels as they grind on the threads and you pull over wondering what all the noise and weirdness is.

[JFairman]

Easiest way to keep paint out of the lug holes is smear a thin layer of vasaline in them before spraying paint.
The paint won't dry/stick in them and can be wiped out with a rag afterward.

[the]

If you are doing "SC style" Fuchs (i.e., all black centers), you just need any decent masking tape. You won't be taping around the petals, so there aren't complex curves or anything. Just a very simple tape job.