Another Engine Rebuild Thread - 80 3.0L

[TibetanT]

Originally Posted by mca

I have some questions for you guys. See pics please.



1) What happened to the threads? It isn't gunk and can't be wiped off.



2) Should I replace the distrubutor gear on the crankshaft? Take a look at that rough spot.

I am not an expert on this, but from the pictures it looks as if that stud stripped some metal from inside the case. You think? Can you tell if is metal on there?

However, seems like if the stud pulled out of the case you may have seem more lodged on the end. Hmmm? If it were me, I would seriously take a look at the case side. Just my .02 cents.

[billybek]

Throw a bit of heat on the area that looks like it is piled up. If it is a sealer it should melt or smoke. If it is metal it shouldn't do too much.
Even a lighter may give you an indication.
That is the end of the stud that receives the nut, yes?

[squidmarks]

MCA,

I just noticed this thread. I rebuilt my 3L last winter. I am new to Porsche engines, so I took a ton of pictures during disassembly. I rebuilt my alternator, starter, distributor, CIS and transmission while I was in there as well. Some pictures are located here.

I just skimmed thru this thread, but if you haven't already, I would highly recommend you get a parts washer and either build or buy (I built) a small media blasting hood. Glass shot does a beautiful job on aluminum parts, then use an engine enamel clear coat. Sand or something called "black beauty" works best on steel/sheet metal parts that are going to be painted/powder coated.

Geoff

[911 tweaks]

Hey Geof... whats happening? Have you finished your car??
Hope all is well... SOS on my end...
Bob

[squidmarks]

Bob,

Still pluggin' away at it. Doing body work this weekend (have a look at the photo blog to see progress- link below). The general plan is to have it ready for paint sometime this summer. I'd like to be starting to put it back together this fall/winter. I spent the winter rebuilding the suspension/brakes/steering et cetera. You should stop by for a visit.

Geoff

[911 tweaks]

As always Geoff... simply amazing what you have done to that car... you certainly have a great skill there!!!
Bob

[mca]

Originally Posted by billybek

Throw a bit of heat on the area that looks like it is piled up. If it is a sealer it should melt or smoke. If it is metal it shouldn't do too much.
Even a lighter may give you an indication.
That is the end of the stud that receives the nut, yes?

Good idea. I have a propane torch that I can use.

Yep, that is the nut side ... not case side.

[mca]

Originally Posted by squidmarks

MCA,

I just noticed this thread. I rebuilt my 3L last winter. I am new to Porsche engines, so I took a ton of pictures during disassembly. I rebuilt my alternator, starter, distributor, CIS and transmission while I was in there as well. Some pictures are located here.

I just skimmed thru this thread, but if you haven't already, I would highly recommend you get a parts washer and either build or buy (I built) a small media blasting hood. Glass shot does a beautiful job on aluminum parts, then use an engine enamel clear coat. Sand or something called "black beauty" works best on steel/sheet metal parts that are going to be painted/powder coated.

Geoff

Goodness ... that is a lot of work. I would have trouble keeping up with all of the parts if I was working on engine, tranny, cis, dizzy, etc all at the same time.

Looks great though! Do you miss driving it? I imagine you can't wait to get it on the road.

I am having a machine shop do all of the major cleaning and I will do the final stage of cleaning.

[billybek]

Originally Posted by mca

Good idea. I have a propane torch that I can use.

Yep, that is the nut side ... not case side.

Looks like some sort of sealer that piled up behind the nut as it was tightened.

[mca]

Originally Posted by billybek

Looks like some sort of sealer that piled up behind the nut as it was tightened.

Exactly right ... I just burned it off with the torch. Thanks for addressing that question. Much appreciated.

[mca]

Update:

I have all of my parts from Pelican. I should be getting my stuff back from EBS late next week - everything is ready except for the pistons. Apparently JE had to make some more.

This gives me some time to start cleaning the case. I had it washed but the job was so so. I wish it wasn't going to be in the mid 90s this weekend.

[Dixie]

I wish it wasn't going to be in the mid 90s this weekend.

Ah... The lovely S.C. heat. It's like being a screen door away from hell.

[wilke3169]

Start early when its only 70. You will hardly notice the heat once you are drenched in sweat.

Let me know if you need any help. Not with cleaning mind you but I can hold a light or hand you some tools.

[sabeo.m]

mca, did you end up replacing the distributer gear? I also had a rough spot identical to yours? The guy's at Ollie's assured me that it wasn't a big deal.. Take pictures of your reassembly and make sure you have plenty of Scotch brite and Carb cleaner. I stocked up on that stuff!

[mca]

Originally Posted by sabeo.m

mca, did you end up replacing the distributer gear? I also had a rough spot identical to yours? The guy's at Ollie's assured me that it wasn't a big deal.. Take pictures of your reassembly and make sure you have plenty of Scotch brite and Carb cleaner. I stocked up on that stuff!

Sorry for the delayed reply! For some reason I did not get an email notification.

I did not replace the dizzy gear. I filed it down to remove the rough edge. Should be good to go.

I finally finished all of the case cleaning after 40+ hours following a wash at the machine shop. I am sick of cleaning.

Last night I assembled the crank shaft. Next step is the case!

I will post pictures later. Wife has camera.

[mca]

Ok, here are some pics and I have some questions.

Do I fill these holes with JB Weld? The others (plugs) around the case are all flush with the case surface but these two (in the pics below) are about 1/4 inch deep. Am I missing something?







Is this a flaw in the case? Looks like some of the case surface broke free. Should I fill with JB Weld?




Here is a pic of the finished crank and one of the heads I got back from EBS.







Yes, the parts have found their way inside the house. My wife has been quite understanding ... gotta love that.

[Elombard]

Did you ever figure out why 3 had no Compression? Sure looked fine in the pictures? I wonder if it had a stuck open valve some way?

Is that "hunk" missing from the case going through to a passage?

40 hours cleaning the case.....man I just do not have the patience for that. Looks beauftiful!

Really take your time on resealing the case halves. I know of several people that have done this and then ended up with a leak at the seam. very disheartening after all of the time.

Really looks exciting. I am going to have to try this!

[Gunter]

mca:
Re: 3rd picture.
It's not broken; they all look like that. Do not fill with JB-weld, just remove some of the jagged edges if there are any and leave it.
Re: Crank.
Are the rod bolts torqued for final? What type rod bolts?
Re: Cleaning case.
Did you remove both pressure relieve valves for cleaning?
Blow out all oil passages so they are clean without obstructions.

Follow Wayne's book for crank-installation but DO NOT put the main oil seal on the crank.
Install the oil seal much later flush with the case when the case-halves are together.
Did you get new tab-washers for the oil pump or are you re-using the old ones?

[mca]

Originally Posted by Elombard

Did you ever figure out why 3 had no Compression? Sure looked fine in the pictures? I wonder if it had a stuck open valve some way?

Never found out why it had no compression. Couldn't see anything that would point to that kind of result.

[mca]

Originally Posted by Gunter

mca:
Re: 3rd picture.
It's not broken; they all look like that. Do not fill with JB-weld, just remove some of the jagged edges if there are any and leave it.
Re: Crank.
Are the rod bolts torqued for final? What type rod bolts?
Re: Cleaning case.
Did you remove both pressure relieve valves for cleaning?
Blow out all oil passages so they are clean without obstructions.

Follow Wayne's book for crank-installation but DO NOT put the main oil seal on the crank.
Install the oil seal much later flush with the case when the case-halves are together.
Did you get new tab-washers for the oil pump or are you re-using the old ones?

Rod bolts are torqued to final specs and I used the standard bolts (new originals).

Pressure and relief pistons were removed for cleaning and passages are clear.

I certainly won't put the flywheel seal in until after the case is together. Seems to be the general consensus on this forum.

I have new tab-washer for the oil pump.

Thanks for clarifying that questionable area in the case. I won't mess with it as the edges seem smooth.


So ... should I fill those recessed plug holes with JB Weld (pics 1 and 2) ?