Another Engine Rebuild Thread - 80 3.0L

[mca]

Can anyone help me with the question regarding the JB Weld and the two plug locations in the pics above?

I need to know if I am supposed to fill those areas as they are about 1/4 inch deep.

[billybek]

I am unsure if you need to fill the back of the plugs so just giving you a bump to the front.
(I don't think so but someone else will chime in!)

[Gunter]

I assume that you have Wayne's Engine Rebuild book?
If not, you'll need to get it before you proceed.
Check the pictures on page 126 of Wayne's book; it looks like he recommends to use JB-Weld for the holes.
While your'e at it, look at page 156 (Timing Chain Housings) and use JB-Weld on the back of the carrier shafts of the chain tensioners.

[mca]

Originally Posted by Gunter

I assume that you have Wayne's Engine Rebuild book?
If not, you'll need to get it before you proceed.
Check the pictures on page 126 of Wayne's book; it looks like he recommends to use JB-Weld for the holes.
While your'e at it, look at page 156 (Timing Chain Housings) and use JB-Weld on the back of the carrier shafts of the chain tensioners.

Yeah, I am following Wayne's book. But the pins / plugs all look flush with the case surface in his pictures. I was just wondering why mine were recessed. I filled them all in with JB Weld.

[mca]

Today I assembled the case ..... TWICE!!!!!!!!!!!

Yep, I had sealed up the case, installed the pressure pistons, breather cover, thermostat, etc. when I LUCKILY saw an intermediate shaft bearing laying in the case.

A couple of hours after sealing the case my wife was helping me put the o-rings on the through bolts one at a time. I was torquing down one of the nuts when the bearing caught my eye. Couldn't believe my eyes.

I almost threw up. It felt like I had just lost a huge hand of black jack. I swigged on my beer, layed back, and began spinning in my head. My wife thought I went postal.

When lowering the left half on to the right half I thought I heard a piece of metal drop. I honestly thought that my wife had kicked a wrench on the floor so I didn't think of it further - she was assisting me. Apparently one of the case studs made contact with the bearing and knocked it out.

So, reeling with anger and disbelief I ripped it apart again. It look me less than two hours to tear it down and assemble it again. SOOO much faster the second time.

I need to add this to the "admit your stupidity" thread. I suppose it is good that I saw it when I did. Could have been a lot worse had the sealant had time to set overnight ... or after trying to crank it .

Many props to my wife. There is no way that I could have torqued down the through bolts and case nuts in 45 mins.

[dtw]

Don't feel bad. I had 2 wet assemblies and 13 (count 'em) dry test assemblies on my last 2.7 before it slowly started to sink in that the case was completely fubared.

[ChrisBennet]

About the plugs.
Normally you remove them to clean the oil galleries and and put in new ones. I can't remember if they come with epoxy on them from the factory, I think so.
When you put the new ones in you put a thin coat of sealant on them such as Loctite 274 or Loctite 518.
If you haven't disturbed yours, I would leave them alone.

Want to know something funny? I didn't even know that you could buy those plugs (I always had them made) until a friend gave me some he had leftover from a 964 rebuild. Part # 900.036.046.00
That part shows up on the 964 parts diagram but not the earlier ones...
-Chris

[Gunter]

Originally Posted by dtw

Don't feel bad. I had 2 wet assemblies and 13 (count 'em) dry test assemblies on my last 2.7 before it slowly started to sink in that the case was completely fubared.

Hmm.....If you're going by the TV-series, they didn't check the Dictionary.

fubare means absolutely nothing in German.

The correct word is: furchtbar.

Don't even try to pronounce that.

[Gunter]

mca:
***** happens; Beer is verboten during assembly.
Sometimes, people forget the seals for the pump.
The new bearing halves can fall out during assembly.
Temporarily install the pulley, put a socket on the bolt and try turning the crank carefully watching the rods as you go.
It should go without any binding either from the crank or I-shaft.
Take your time without beer.

[mca]

Ha! I rarely drink. I decided to have a beer while gazing at my completed case assembly. It was hot in my garage and I was happy ... the beer made me happier.

Until I saw the bearing of course.

Here are some pics. For the record, I applied Loctite 574 to the left case half (the one with no studs). I also fastened the through bolt caps to the left case half as this is how it was before I tore it down.

The "tools" that I made to support the rods (4,5,6) and the chain didn't work out so well. The rods could stand on their own for a few seconds at a time which was enough to fit the left case half over them. I fed the chain through to my wife and she held it while I lowered the case half.









Here is the completed case.


Here is my wife lending a hand. I can't believe she wasn't wearing powder free latex gloves!


I was quite surprised to find the case mating surfaces pretty darn clean after I pulled it apart to fix the bearing. The sealant had squeezed onto the inside and outside but little was left on the mating surfaces. I guess that it doesn't take much to seal the case.

The crank turns freely which is wonderful. You may notice from the pics that the oil pump is missing the nuts and locking tabs ... I installed them but took pic before doing so.

[Gunter]

Looking good.
It's up to you if you want to check the ring-gap by placing a ring inside the cylinder about 35-40 mm down.
I used the method of installing the rings on the pistons by hand, no expander.
Then I mounted the pistons on the rods and installed the cylinders by slipping them over the pistons with the help of a ring compressor. This is a little tricky. Be patient and make sure the rings don't get hung up on the edge of the cylinder. Use lube.
Be patient when installing the clips for the wrist pins; they have a tendency to just fly off into space. I found it easiest to just use thumb and fingers plus a small screwdriver.
When you get to the chain housings page 156-157, install them, the cams and the chain sprocket assembly (page 158) to check the float of max. 0.5 mm.
I had to leave out the paper gasket to stay within that 0.5 mm to ensure that the large O-ring seals properly. That's quite alright because Loctite 574 can be used to seal.

[mca]

Originally Posted by Gunter

Looking good.
It's up to you if you want to check the ring-gap by placing a ring inside the cylinder about 35-40 mm down.
I used the method of installing the rings on the pistons by hand, no expander.
Then I mounted the pistons on the rods and installed the cylinders by slipping them over the pistons with the help of a ring compressor. This is a little tricky. Be patient and make sure the rings don't get hung up on the edge of the cylinder. Use lube.
Be patient when installing the clips for the wrist pins; they have a tendency to just fly off into space. I found it easiest to just use thumb and fingers plus a small screwdriver.
When you get to the chain housings page 156-157, install them, the cams and the chain sprocket assembly (page 158) to check the float of max. 0.5 mm.
I had to leave out the paper gasket to stay within that 0.5 mm to ensure that the large O-ring seals properly. That's quite alright because Loctite 574 can be used to seal.

Gunter,

Thanks for the advice and thanks for following this thread. I appreciate your feedback and expertise.

Best,
Craig

[DIANA]

suscript

[wachuko]

Subscribed as well. Brave man. Someday I hope to be able to follow your steps.

[euro911sc]

Lookin' good!! Engine looks nice too!

-Michael

[mca]

Thanks for the support.

I have no problem tearing stuff apart - pretty good at that. But getting it back together is another thing.

I don't tend to stress about stuff, however this entire process is really taking its toll on me mentally and physically. Sometimes at night my mind will continually walk through assembly steps ... over and over and over. I just can't shut it down.

Mental note: don't ever try this again during mid-summer while living in the sticky south.

[mca]

This weekend I managed to install the pistons and cylinders with the help of Kevin (fellow Pelican). The wrist pin clips could not have been more difficult. Initially we installed the piston in the cylinder and then tried to install it as a unit. This made it virtually impossible to work the clip into the groove on the piston - the cylinder seemed to get in the way.

We then went out and bought a different ring compressor which allowed us to install the pistons on the rods first and then slip the cylinder over the piston. Much easier but the clip is still unacceptably difficult. Ended up cutting a notch in a screwdriver which provided some leverage on the clip. Still the most difficult task thus far.

Today I installed the cylinder tin, heads, and head stud nuts (not torqued - just tight enough to keep heads on). I am still cleaning up the cam housings and waiting on a new bottle of loctite to arrive before I can move further.

Here are some pics.

[911 tweaks]

looks great!!
Just a fyi... you may want to cover the sump, head tops & oil breather as you have covered every thing else... I know of someone who did just as you did...he came out to his engine 3~4 days later to resume assembly, probably after more parts arrived ;-) and he found a wasp going sitting on the oil pump pick up pipe...he stood there and sure as sh^t another wasp flew over... basically they were making a nest in there.
In the end, he had to use raid spray to kill the wasps. For insurance he had to break the glue seal of the pick up pipe and there was a clump of dirt from which they were begining to make a nice nest!! Don't know if you have any kids... those holes also look interesting to stick something in there.
Again, great thread and keep up the great work... you are almost there!! :-)
Bob

[mca]

Originally Posted by 911 tweaks

looks great!!
Just a fyi... you may want to cover the sump, head tops & oil breather as you have covered every thing else... I know of someone who did just as you did...he came out to his engine 3~4 days later to resume assembly, probably after more parts arrived ;-) and he found a wasp going sitting on the oil pump pick up pipe...he stood there and sure as sh^t another wasp flew over... basically they were making a nest in there.
In the end, he had to use raid spray to kill the wasps. For insurance he had to break the glue seal of the pick up pipe and there was a clump of dirt from which they were begining to make a nice nest!! Don't know if you have any kids... those holes also look interesting to stick something in there.
Again, great thread and keep up the great work... you are almost there!! :-)
Bob

When I finish working each day I cover the engine with a trashbag and clamp it shut. I do get a lot of wasp visitors while I am in the garage. They can find their way into anything.

[sabeo.m]

Looking good mca! Sorry for not providing you the sealant information sooner, but at least now you know where to get the stuff if you need it I am at a complete halt with my rebuild. I'm waiting for my replacement connecting rod bolts to arrive. Luckily I went over each step one last time and discovered I was sent the wrong size RaceWare rod bolts. The Rod's were not turning as freely as they should so I started to go over the assembly again. The packaging listed all the right information (miss print or something) but after measuring the diameter of the bolt I realized I had the wrong ones. I sent them back to the supplier and I was right. So, more waiting.. BTW, I don't sleep much at night either.