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porschenut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
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Yes, I will definitely be reading Jeff's thread on his rebuild.

I love ITB's. I'd love to build a 3.2SS with PMO ITB's, twin plug, TEC-3, and S cams. If I can do that without busting my budget (including professional tuning), I wouldn't hesitate. Could an engine like that pass an emissions test?

Old 12-11-2008, 05:59 AM
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Call Orin @ 303.789.2545. He is great at getting hotrod engines through emissions.
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Old 12-11-2008, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurt V View Post
I'd stick with your 3.2. I assume you already have done the cat bypass, if not do that. Then add the 964 cams and updated Steve W chip. That won't gain you much more HP, maybe 5 or so, but you will now get a lot more off the line grunt. When I rebuilt my 3.2 I went with SSI's, 964 cams, chip and muffler and it is nice and strong off the line all the way up to redline. Stripping you car of weight will just make it more of a beast.
A very sensible suggestion Kurt. And if I swap my 8:31 ring and pinion for a 7:31 in addition to your recipe, that would make it quicker still. Something to think about, as that would certainly save some money and the hassles of trying to implement something more exotic.

Way too many options!

Is mechanical fuel injection particularly expensive or challenging to implement? Should I even consider it?
Old 12-11-2008, 11:18 AM
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Get Bill V to comment on gear ratio's....and brakes.
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Old 12-11-2008, 11:22 AM
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MFI is tough because it runs off a pump that is driven by a belt attached to one of the cam shafts. Obviously the non MFI motors do not have the attachment on the cam shaft. It can be added...its only money. There used to be a guy on here who had a 3.0 with MFI. I think he sold the car..very dreamy.

Also, I think the modern FI is such a huge step up in tuneability and ease of operation you would be better going after the "look" with some tall trumpets but actually using sensors and computers to fire the fuel instead of cam driven.
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Old 12-11-2008, 12:39 PM
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careful on the 7:31 . the torque and use/ abuse ? will wear it out quickly. Better bet to keep the 8:31, wevo or similar billet side plate, and go with shorter gear sets.
we have had several clients (inc myself) bust or wear out 7:31's in high torque/ hp cars
db
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Old 12-11-2008, 12:52 PM
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I posted this on another thread but hope this will help. 3.2 in my SC. I can tell you the driveability, usable torque, etc. is great.




1986 Euro Carrera motor rebuilt by Chris Powell of Chris' Foreign Auto in Bellevue, WA. Dyno tested at 210 SAE HP at the rear wheels. Adjusting for drivetrain losses and converting to DIN gives 255 HP at the crank.
Rebuild details: 10.3:1 compression ratio Euro pistons and cylinders; low mileage 964 turbo crankshaft; 993 cams; cylinder heads ported and polished by Chris; case webs relieved for windage; ARP rod bolts; rods rebushed, balanced and resized end-for-end; pistons weight balanced; crank, flywheel and pressure plate balanced; throttle body bored out 3mm; intake manifold “ported” for larger throttle body and polished; injectors rebuilt and blueprinted; adjustable rising rate fuel pressure regulator; SSI headers with fully functional heat exchangers; new CV joints and axle shafts; Monty dual outlet muffler; Autothority chip customized for application.

Some would probably argue the calculation on the HP conversion. I don't know enough about it to comment. This motor came with the car.

If the criteria is to build your motor yourself, I would think this could be the way to go.
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Old 12-11-2008, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by porschenut View Post
Surely I can coax 40 more hp out of a 3.2 without spending the entire budget...can't I?
Add a turbo, and welcome to the dark side!
Old 12-11-2008, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charlesbahn View Post
Add a turbo, and welcome to the dark side!
Or simply buy a C2T engine, and add exhaust and wastegate spring, an Andial enrichment system and you easily will have over 400 of reliable HP. Easily done for less than $15k.
Old 12-11-2008, 01:52 PM
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Old 12-11-2008, 01:53 PM
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buy the car on ebay and sell your car . that is a bargain!
Old 12-11-2008, 02:01 PM
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My favorite is the 3.2L to 3.5L conversion carrera3.5L documented some time ago. California street car with 246 whp and 224 lb-ft of torque.

3.2 to 3.5 - Part II
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Old 12-11-2008, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
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Will that intercooler fit under the duck tail?
Old 12-11-2008, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRE Cup View Post
careful on the 7:31 . the torque and use/ abuse ? will wear it out quickly. Better bet to keep the 8:31, wevo or similar billet side plate, and go with shorter gear sets.
we have had several clients (inc myself) bust or wear out 7:31's in high torque/ hp cars
db
Good tip, thanks Dave. I've thought about shorter gear sets and it would be nice to shorten the big RPM drop between 1st-2nd. New gears are more expensive up front but I'm sure it's a better solution.

Too bad you guys aren't located closer to me. It would be great to have TRE involved in the project.
Old 12-11-2008, 03:46 PM
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Dude, I would be all over this... 964 3.6 Engine for sale
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Old 12-11-2008, 04:52 PM
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If, when, I do it again, I am going for more displacement. I am still toying with the 3.7 idea this winter but time is an issue for me.

From scratch, I would build a 3.9 or 4.0 with ITB's.......

Cheers
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Old 12-11-2008, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeremyD View Post
Dude, I would be all over this... 964 3.6 Engine for sale
Yeah, that's tempting, and right here in town. It just isn't what I want though. Half of the point of my project is to learn about engines by rebuilding one. The other half is to end up with an engine that is the right character for a vintage race car replica.
Old 12-11-2008, 05:37 PM
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I would like to have Todd at Protomotive convert the Motronics to a vac sensing system that would work with a set of Individual Throttle Bodies. Set it up with PMO units and get a set of early air cleaner tin to make it look stock.

Get a twin plug retro distributor and an Andial signal splitter.

Maybe some and amber motor shroud.

Could bore the cylinder, have them plated, and use J&E's unless some 3.4 or 3.5 MFI or Carb P&C's could be sourced.

I'd also spend some of the money on the trans for some short gears.
Old 12-11-2008, 06:58 PM
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This one gets my vote: 3.6L Race Motor, 350hp turn key

And after you buy it you'd even have some $$$$ left to play with...
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Last edited by RideShoot&Drink; 12-11-2008 at 07:58 PM..
Old 12-11-2008, 07:55 PM
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Ask TRE about the RS clone motor they are building. It's probably a bit short on HP, but authentic for an RSR type toy.

Quote:


Quote de TRE Cup



careful on the 7:31 . the torque and use/ abuse ? will wear it out quickly. Better bet to keep the 8:31, wevo or similar billet side plate, and go with shorter gear sets.

we have had several clients (inc myself) bust or wear out 7:31's in high torque/ hp cars

db


Good tip, thanks Dave. I've thought about shorter gear sets and it would be nice to shorten the big RPM drop between 1st-2nd. New gears are more expensive up front but I'm sure it's a better solution.



Too bad you guys aren't located closer to me. It would be great to have TRE involved in the project.

Old 12-11-2008, 08:49 PM
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