My Carrera 3.0 LWT project

[jsveb]

Hi

I've had a chance to do some work on the car.

I made this nerf bar. Now I just need the oil cooler. I have decided on a Setrab 172 with 30mm in- and outlet, and not the smaller version I initially aimed at.



I've also trimmed ans shaped the wire mesh that'll cover the oil cooler inlet.

I want to paint it, but haven't quite decided on the color yet: Black, silver or orange reddish.



I think I'll use resin to bond the mesh to the bumper, asuming this is OK?

That's all for now.

Jesper

[jsveb]

Hi

I need some help to find out what the original color was.
I was of the impression that it was moss green. Which I was told by the official Porsche center here in DK, but a very trustworthy pelican member informed me that the Carrera 3.0 was never finished in Moss green

Where do I find a definite answer to this question?
The car is a 1976(75) Carrera 3.0

Thanks

Jesper

[javadog]

It could be Irish green or Oak green, if it looks like it might have originally been a dark green. If the paint color plate is still riveted to the front of the left side door jamb, that would tell us the color. Sometimes the color was recorded in the owner's manual. Failing that, Porsche would be able to tell you the original color.

JR

[Bill Verburg]

Start by looking at the at the color plate. My '76 C3 has it on the drivers side forward door jamb.

std green for '77 was Ascot Green(aka Speedway) #258
special order green was Lime Green #137, Irish Green #213, Apple Green(aka Daphne) #260, Emerald Green metallic ##264, Oak Green Metallic #265, Ice Green Metallic(aka Silver Green) #266

[jsveb]

Hi

Thanks for the replies.

I have to admit that "door jamb" is not included in my tech vocabulary, so where is that exactly?
I have been looking and looking on the chassis, but I can't fint it. I tell my self that I have seen a "Kunst Harzlack" plate a long time ago, but I might be wrong.

What do you think about my nerf bar?

Thanks

Jesper

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by jsveb

Hi

Thanks for the replies.

I have to admit that "door jamb" is not included in my tech vocabulary, so where is that exactly?
I have been looking and looking on the chassis, but I can't fint it. I tell my self that I have seen a "Kunst Harzlack" plate a long time ago, but I might be wrong.

What do you think about my nerf bar?

Thanks

Jesper

Here's mine

[jsveb]

Thank you very much Bill.

Things were as I thought. It's not there.

I know it sounds stupid, but I am almost certain, that I've seen it some years back.I remember that placard - but likely not.
How do I find out. Can I get the info from Porsche online?

I really appreciate your input

Jesper

[jsveb]

Hi

I am trying to fit my R tail lights, but I need an adapter.

I bought these quite some time ago. I ordered a complete set from our host, but they let me know that the guy who produced them had gone missing.
After a couple of failed attempts, I finally ordered some on ebay - Shouldn't have done it.
The fit is not 100%, but can be made to work.

My problem is, though they were sold as a complete set to a G-model car, they didn't some with the adapters that are needed to fit them.

Do any of you have a set of R tail lights not yet fitted, and would you be willing to copy them onto a drawing with measurements. Then I'll have someone fabricate the parts.
Here is a picture of what I am talking about:


On this picture you can see them mounted on the car:


Or maybe you know of a place where I can buy just the adapters?

Thanks

Jesper

[78SCRSMAN]

TRE should have them... Call Dave

[jsveb]

Yes Yes Yes...

I think my search has finally paid off:
Importing a Motor Vehicle - CBP.gov

This link gives me the following information:
-Extract-

Importing a Motor Vehicle

(08/08/2008)

The following vehicles need not conform to emission or safety requirements but may NOT be sold in the U.S. and may require EPA and DOT declarations:

Those belonging to members of foreign armed forces, foreign diplomatic personnel, or other individuals who come within the class of persons for whom free entry has been authorized by the Department of State in accordance with international law.

I think I can ring the car and continue my project in the States.

Jesper

[jsveb]

Hi

I've got my back against the wall. I am moving in about two weeks, so the last two nights (I am on vacation - at home) I have finally been able to put some hours into the car.

The situation is that, after me moving I wont have all my tools, so if can can fix all of the rust issues before leaving I have a better chance of finishing the project "over there".

I decided to jump right in.

I am a total amateur so please bare with me:

I started out by removing all the paint etc, to reveal the extend of the rust. I then decided how much would need replacing.

I measured all the edges and then started to hammer, cut and weld.
I ended up with this:


I continued by drilling out the spot welds and cutting out the roth. I the process I broke my drill bit, and I realized by grinding it sharp but flat it might work even better - it did:



This is what I ended up cutting away:


I copied the original spot welds by overlapping old and new:



Notice the small extra piece welded on in the upper RH corner. Well, lets say: Rookie mistake...

The old piece was originally painted black. So I decided to use some Zink primer on the back side:


Some of the places that needed welding would be more than just sheet metal. So I practised a little to find the correct settings on the welder:


After about half an hour of final fitting I plugged the spot welds. The welds didn't turn out as I had hoped for - more later.



Neither did the tacking on the edges, but it penetrated nicely.




To be continued...

[jsveb]

I started wondering about the welds. It just didn't sound right.

I then decided to remove the exposed zink coating on the inner wall. This made quite a diffrence. I don't know if it was the zink primer (it says on the can: To be used for welding primer).

See for yourself:


I don't know if you can tell, but it was a totally different experience, much easier.

After a lot of grinding and grinding... I this it what it came to:


sorry for the out-of-focus.




I decided to give it a good clean, using Thinner. Then coated it with Zink primer. It will be left in this state for a while..

I've got som POR 15 (marine clean, metal ready and paint), but don't know what to coat -or if at all. Advice would be greatly appreciated.

End result:




that is it for now. I hope to get out there again tomorrow.

Thanks

Jesper

[78SCRSMAN]

If that is aerosol and you plan to use any activated paints later... I would recommend removing that in favor of epoxy or your, eh hem, por15. If you use por15, that is all that is needed on the fender well side, save for some chip guard if you like.

[Tim K]

Originally Posted by 78SCRSMAN

If that is aerosol and you plan to use any activated paints later... I would recommend removing that in favor of epoxy ...

+1

Also, less zinc primer in the areas to be welded makes welding much easier.

Tim K

[jsveb]

Originally Posted by 78SCRSMAN

If that is aerosol and you plan to use any activated paints later... I would recommend removing that in favor of epoxy or your, eh hem, por15. If you use por15, that is all that is needed on the fender well side, save for some chip guard if you like.

Hi

78SCRSMAN: I do simply not understand the ...your eh hem, por15 part in your posting. Not trying to be smart, but english is not my native languish.

I will remove the zink coating later on. Its just temporary, since I realize there will be another brake in the work.

Thanks for the feedback.

Jesper

[jsveb]

Well, between work and family I have managed to get some work done.
After arriving here in the US and started working on the car again, i began removing all the last pieces from the chassis.


I wont bore you with that, but just want to show what I did to all this.
I wanted to refurb rather than buy new stuff. One of my goal is to use as much of the car that I can and not just buy new parts. This has taken A LOT of time.

I decided to try electrolysis for rust removal. I worked fine, but was time consuming:



The A-arms had been coated using a special coating used on Aircraft landing gear. I then painted them black


many parts got this treatment:


The fuel tank got stripped and painted black



All the while I finished various bits and pieces I was debating whether to have a shop do the rust work, or buy a welder, since I did not bring my MIG.
I decided to buy a small MIG welder...

[jsveb]

the hubs had also been coated back home. I believe they called this ALUDYNE coating, also used on aircrafts. I then painted them silver:


I bought Rebel Racing RSR bushings for the A-arms:


The front shocks and struts was removed and sent to ER for raising the spindles for 16" Fuchs. It will have yellow Bilstein sports allround.


The steering rack was refurbished and will get ER tierods:



The banana arms was blasted and dust shields plated. New bearings installed (what a pain)


I am fitting a setrap 172 oil cooler under the RUF bumper, more on that later.

The pedal assembly was PC with new bushings - Nice.

This was just a little intro before the real work begins, on the chassis.

[jsveb]

Back home in DK, the last thing I did was fix the RH side bumper mount.

So i decided to tackle the LH side:
I took plenty of photos to make sure I could line things up again:


I drew lines on the metal to find where the bends were, not for cutting, but to get an idea on how to fab up the new piece:



I then drrw some lines for reference when welding on the pieces after repairing the rusted parts


The new piece was shaped and test fitted before cutting into the chassis:


It was then time to cut and fit:


Tag, weld and grind. Voila!



Then I weded the bumper mount back on:


And that is how the story goes...more to follow

[jsveb]

Below the bumper mount in front of the wheelwell ,also on the left side, there was a small spot with holes rusted
I cleaned it, fabbed up a piece by hammering and bending:

This was also welded in place:


I could continue to post pictures of all this spots that were fixed. I anctually like to finally being able to pst some progress, but I am not too sure you'll find it interesting.

I will however show how I repaired the rear engine seal rail, or whatever it is called. Anyways mine was rusted and needed fixing:
I measured the old one to the best of my ability. Then I cut out som sheet metal and bend it into shape:



Then i put it back in place:

and here it is primed:


I just want to show you the last real rust work I did on the car before that part was done.
The was some rust where the hood seal rests. I cut out the rust and bend a new piece in position. It sounds simple and is if you are good at it, I am not, so all of this has taken me a LONG time.
pictures:



welded and ground:

[jsveb]

This is how ot looked when I thought I was done with rust work. Where the black etch primer is, is where the work was done:

To be continued...