915 Rebuild (Part II) - Time for Assembly

[arbita1]

I'm starting a new post for the assembly portion of my 915 rebuild. You can read the disassembly post and all the disasters I came upon here:

Getting Ready for 915 Rebuild - It's my turn.

I figured the other post has gotten so long, I'm sure people are tired of looking at it.

So, I've got my parts back from the shop and I'm ready to start rebuilding.

Here is the differential case all cleaned up:



And here is the sleeving job to fix the spun pinion shaft bearing race. I also had them install a new input shaft bearing race as well.



Here is my old races pressed into my new intermediate cover.



And last night I assembled my main shaft. Could you guys take a look and see if anything looks amiss before I torque the nut.





One thing I noticed is that the location of the shaft nut is different than in the Bentley manual. It seems that the nut should not go past the hole in the main shaft like it is doing.



Did I press everything on too tight? Am I supposed to the a space somewhere? The Bentley manual didn't mention anything and all the bearings and gears turn freely. So I'm not sure what's wrong.

[sc_rufctr]

Originally Posted by arbita1

One thing I noticed is that the location of the shaft nut is different than in the Bentley manual. It seems that the nut should not go past the hole in the main shaft like it is doing.



Did I press everything on too tight? Am I supposed to the a space somewhere? The Bentley manual didn't mention anything and all the bearings and gears turn freely. So I'm not sure what's wrong.

I just took this photo of my input shaft and new 42mm nut I sourced from our host. I haven't dis-assembled this shaft yet...

The part number is: 930-302-281-00-M100

As you can see the new nut is thinner than the original one on the shaft.
Looks like I'm going to have the same problem if I use the new nut.

[sc_rufctr]

More...

The original part number for this nut is :91530228100 (Peter Zimmerman provided this number)

When I search for "91530228100" the search result states "Part Superseded to 99903403300"...
Part number: 99903403300... Lock Nut, For Transmission Main Shaft/Pinion Shaft, 911 Carrera 2/4 (1989-98), 911 Turbo (1989-98),

Looking at the description this one is for the later G50 Gearbox.

I think I (we) ordered the wrong nut... I'll send a message to support to confirm and post the results.

[arbita1]

You are right. I think we have the wrong nut. This is the second time Pelican screwed me up with there descriptions. The bearings for the P/S and M/S are reversed in their descriptions.

I'm going to have to start checking the part numbers carefully.

By the way...when I look at my PET....99903403300 is the right number.

[sc_rufctr]

Originally Posted by arbita1

By the way...when I look at my PET....99903403300 is the right number.

Just to clarify.. Did you order 99903403300 or 93030228100M100?

[Peter Zimmermann]

...and I just bought a nut to complete a repair kit, and my supplier still sells it under the 915 302 281 00 number - without mention of the 999 number. Let me see if I can get some info for you...

Is the nut with the short collar micro-encapsulated, or just clean threads?

[sc_rufctr]

Originally Posted by Peter Zimmermann

Is the nut with the short collar micro-encapsulated, or just clean threads?

Mine new one has just clean threads. The photo on our hosts site of 99903403300 has what looks like a blue locking compound on the threads.



Looking at the photo now it looks very similar to my original one on my input shaft.

[arbita1]

Originally Posted by sc_rufctr

Just to clarify.. Did you order 99903403300 or 93030228100M100?

I got the 930 part number.

Originally Posted by Peter Zimmermann

...and I just bought a nut to complete a repair kit, and my supplier still sells it under the 915 302 281 00 number - without mention of the 999 number. Let me see if I can get some info for you...

Is the nut with the short collar micro-encapsulated, or just clean threads?

I think it is just clean threads.

[Peter Zimmermann]

Matt: I just talked to my supplier, and the 999 number is a legit supersession (they still have the old number in stock so they haven't updated their system as yet). The 281 00 nuts have been micro-encapsulated (blue thread locker) for many years, I assume that the correct replacement also will be.

[arbita1]

Ok. I'll have to order the correct nut. We have to let Wayne know he's got a few bugs on the website.

[sc_rufctr]

John Chi from Pelican replied to my question.

He said part number :99903403300 is the correct one.

[snbush67]

Maybe there is supposed to be a spacer or washer in between the bearings and the new style nut? What is the purpose of the hole in the shaft? Does it have a pin in it to lock the nut into place?

[Fishcop]

Matt

Can you please tell me more about the pinion bearing fix you went with? It's clear my bearing has been turning in the case also. If I was in the US I'd just go with the Wevo fix, but over here in Oz I need to consider other options.

Cheers

[arbita1]

Originally Posted by snbush67

Maybe there is supposed to be a spacer or washer in between the bearings and the new style nut? What is the purpose of the hole in the shaft? Does it have a pin in it to lock the nut into place?

No...it's just the wrong nut. The hole is where you stake the collar of the nut into to lock it in place. I have to order the right nut.

Originally Posted by Fishcop

Matt

Can you please tell me more about the pinion bearing fix you went with? It's clear my bearing has been turning in the case also. If I was in the US I'd just go with the Wevo fix, but over here in Oz I need to consider other options.

Cheers

Basically a machine shop bores out the case where the old pinion shaft race was. Then they install a steel sleeve in the bore which they then press the bearing race into. The cost to do that here is $ 250 - $ 300. Peter could tell you a lot more as he was the one who turned me on to this. The race is very tight now...no more turning.

[arbita1]

Ok.

So the mainshaft is back together...minus the correct nut...but other than that I think it is all fine.

I put the pinion shaft back together tonight without incident. The M/S and P/S seem to mesh together nicely. So once I get the new nut I'll be ready to start put the tranmission back together.

Then I started working on replacing the carrier bearings on the differential. The one on the opposite side of the ring gear came off easily and I pressed the new one on with no problem.

However, the bearing on the other side (ring gear side) is harder. The problem (that I'm having) is that I cannot find a good place to grab the bearing from with the puller. On the other side there are two access holes through the speed sensor plate that let you get a good grip on the bearing.

But on the ring gear side there is only one flat spot to get you in there. All I'm doing is pulling the bearing by the edges and destroying it.

How do I get this thing off?

[sc_rufctr]

What are you planning on using to seal up the case?

I have done some searching and "Loctite 574 Case Sealant" seems to be the one to use.

[Porsche_monkey]

Originally Posted by sc_rufctr

What are you planning on using to seal up the case?

I have done some searching and "Loctite 574 Case Sealant" seems to be the one to use.

That is a good choice.

[arbita1]

Originally Posted by sc_rufctr

What are you planning on using to seal up the case?

I have done some searching and "Loctite 574 Case Sealant" seems to be the one to use.

I hadn't gotten that far yet. But whatever you guys recommend.

Anyone have any recommendation for getting the carrier bearing off? I was looking at the factory manual and they just show using a gear puller to do it. I just don't understand how to get under the lip to grab the race with a gear puller.

There is a note next to the picture that indicates the puller arms may need to be machined.

[sc_rufctr]

Originally Posted by arbita1

Anyone have any recommendation for getting the carrier bearing off? I was looking at the factory manual and they just show using a gear puller to do it. I just don't understand how to get under the lip to grab the race with a gear puller.

There is a note next to the picture that indicates the puller arms may need to be machined.

I've read here that if you heat up the side plate the carrier bearing will just about fall out. If it was me I wouldn't go any higher than 100 Celsius - 212 Fahrenheit

Would your wife/girl friend let you use the kitchen oven to do this?

I'm divorced so I don't have that problem but my kids complain if their pizza tastes like "Simply Green"

I have also used my dishwasher to clean alloy castings like the gearbox cases... Works a treat... lol

[Peter Zimmermann]

Originally Posted by Fishcop

Can you please tell me more about the pinion bearing fix you went with? It's clear my bearing has been turning in the case also. If I was in the US I'd just go with the Wevo fix, but over here in Oz I need to consider other options.

Matt described the reinforcement process, necessary even with the WEVO clamping plate! The good folks at WEVO told me that their plate offers a fix for the NLA double plates used by the factory, but that their plate will not fix the loose pinion bearing race problem.

Originally Posted by arbita1

Anyone have any recommendation for getting the carrier bearing off? I was looking at the factory manual and they just show using a gear puller to do it. I just don't understand how to get under the lip to grab the race with a gear puller.

There is a note next to the picture that indicates the puller arms may need to be machined.

I've never had a problem with the ring gear side bearing, but I use the factory puller (shown in pics #1-3). The large round section fits over the bearing, and is then tightened (the part is two pieces - one turns inside the other) until the steel rings grip the bearing. Then the other section is screwed into the large part, and tightened against an insert (not pictured), which pulls the bearing off.

The other two pics show the puller, with ground/modified jaws, that I use to pull the bearing at the speedo ring. I imagine it would also work on the ring gear side, the trick is to grind the tips until they can grab the exposed lip on the bearing.