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Quick update:

I've located a replacement 5th gear set and am waiting to receive that. I also had to order another gasket for the intermediate cover. I realized that I installed the cover without checking the location of the detent pill. So in pulling the cover off to verify it's location I ripped the gasket yet again. Turned out it was in the right location, but the not knowing was killing me and I needed piece of mind.

So I'm waiting on these two items and then hopefully I can finally wrap this up.

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Old 06-05-2009, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arbita1 View Post
Quick update:

I've located a replacement 5th gear set and am waiting to receive that. I also had to order another gasket for the intermediate cover. I realized that I installed the cover without checking the location of the detent pill. So in pulling the cover off to verify it's location I ripped the gasket yet again. Turned out it was in the right location, but the not knowing was killing me and I needed piece of mind.

So I'm waiting on these two items and then hopefully I can finally wrap this up.
That's happened to me a number of times, all that you had to do was to remove the plug in the housing and look down the machined bore. If the bore is empty down to the shift fork rod the detents must be in the right place!

Sorry, I missed your last post on page 7 until just now...
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Last edited by Peter Zimmermann; 06-05-2009 at 06:49 AM..
Old 06-05-2009, 06:46 AM
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No problem. The gasket is only $ 1.00. And I'm getting very good at sealing 915 cases.

I thought I might be able to do that, but I wasn't sure what was involved in getting the pin off and back on. So I tried to be careful removing the cover (because last time I ripped it too) but it didn't work out. Maybe if I didn't have the Curil T on there to make it stick against the surfaces.

Not a big deal. I think I'll have the new gasket Saturday. Not sure on the 5th gear set though.
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Old 06-05-2009, 07:27 AM
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Ok. Picture check time.

I haven't staked the P/S nut yet...just in case.







Does everything look as it should?
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Old 06-07-2009, 11:48 AM
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Looks like it's all there. Do you plan on dousing the gear with some oil before you button it up so that it does not start up all dry? I am not sure that is the thing to do so I asked but no answers.
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Old 06-07-2009, 01:10 PM
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Looks OK - make sure that you have 1mm clearance between the R idler and the slider - with the slider pulled toward the idler!
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Old 06-07-2009, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yelcab1 View Post
Looks like it's all there. Do you plan on dousing the gear with some oil before you button it up so that it does not start up all dry? I am not sure that is the thing to do so I asked but no answers.
I hadn't planned on doing that. I haven't heard that before. Any input on this?

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Originally Posted by Peter Zimmermann View Post
Looks OK - make sure that you have 1mm clearance between the R idler and the slider - with the slider pulled toward the idler!
I measured the 1mm clearance with the idler and slider in their normal positions. Then I wiggled the slider to ensure it did not touch. This was per Bentley.

I will re adjust the slider so the 1mm is from the closest point. Not the normal point. Thanks.
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Old 06-08-2009, 02:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arbita1 View Post
I hadn't planned on doing that. I haven't heard that before. Any input on this?
Some people put Vaseline on the gears, some pour oil on them. I fill the gearbox before I install it, then I try all five gears plus reverse and drive the input shaft with a hand drill for a minute or two.

If you start the car and drive away slowly after the instal the gears are lubricated immediately. I don't see the issue. I let my cabriolet sit for six months per year and I don't pre-lube the gears before I drive it in spring.
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Old 06-08-2009, 04:39 AM
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The beauty of splash lube is that it happens right away. No pre-oiling is necessary, when you have the car back together and you start the engine the gears/bearings inside the trans will be wet before you have a chance to finish checking for oil and gas leaks while the car is idling. Test shift the car before you put it down on its tires, and make sure that your install is finished, including checking the tire pressures, before you drive the car.
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Old 06-08-2009, 06:36 AM
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And Done!



...well okay maybe 95% done. I still have a few missing nuts and minor stuff to complete. But it's there. The rebuild is complete.

This has been an awesome learning experience. I want to thank everyone that helped. Especially...Pete Z, Peter (sc rufctr), and Porsche Monkey. You guys were amazing and really went above and beyond the call of duty. It we all didn't live on different ends of the spectrum (and we really do) I'd take you all out for beers.

Of course this could all go to hell when I get this thing installed and find some sort of problem. But we'll think positive for now.

Stay tuned for the next part 3 of the engine drop (another first for me)...as soon as I get my car back from the body shop.

Thanks again guys.
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Old 06-09-2009, 05:16 PM
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So I am finally resurrecting this thread after 2.5 years. Yes, it has taken that long to finally get the time and courage to install this rebuilt transmission. I finished yesterday. I dropped my engine about two months ago to install the transmission. I also did the clutch, a heat back date, some engine cleaning, replaced some oil and CIS seals, and installed SSI's (actually Dansk version) with a Monty (2 in/1 out) muffler.

Back to the transmission. I was a bit worried about how this would turn out, but it feels great! Shifting into a few of the gears is tight sometimes, but I'm guessing that may be because it needs to break in a bit? Also, I possibly need to adjust my shift coupler now. I guess that could be a possibility too. I also am hearing a whine only in 5th gear at low load. From searching it seems that could be part of needing to adjust the shift coupler. So I'll probably do that and see if anything changes. I understand it could also need more gear oil. So I'll have to check that. The whine seemed to get lesser on my short test drive, so I'll have to drive it some more and see what happens. Hopefully it's nothing serious. In the interim, I'll keep my old transmission, just in case.

But I am happy there is no more grinding into first gear. And shifting into all gears feels really good. That combined with the new clutch (which feels so much lighter now...almost hydraulic, I need to get out of the habit of pushing on it so hard), and the new sound and a bit more of HP from the SSI/Monty I am very happy!

Thanks all for helping with this. Sorry it took so long to finally get it installed.
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Old 11-20-2011, 05:23 AM
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Old 11-20-2011, 08:57 AM
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Congratulations! You shouldn't need any break-in - if it feels stiff, try readjusting the coupler. It can be very sensitive to fine tuning. Sometimes I've been able to get it perfect in a few tries, other times I've spent days trying to get it just right.
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Old 11-20-2011, 10:45 AM
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Good thread. Definitely bookmarked. I'll be tackling this job over the winter. Mine pops out of 2nd when cold and sometimes grinds when going from 1st to 2nd. I hope it's something simple.
Old 11-20-2011, 01:49 PM
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Congrats on the success after finally getting it in there. I am planning on doing a rebuild on both my 3.0 and my 915 this winter. They are mostly going to just be tear downs / clean / reseal until I can afford to do bearings in everything... I will replace any damaged parts that I find (hopefully not too many).

Jonathon
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Old 11-20-2011, 10:40 PM
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This was a great read, thanks! I'm going to be referring to this during my assembly, hopefully this week.

Thanks,

Babak
Old 11-20-2011, 11:15 PM
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Quick question: how did you hold the gears still while you torqued the pinion and input nuts? Or did you use an impact wrench?

Thanks,

Babak
Old 11-26-2011, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokeMyCar View Post
Quick question: how did you hold the gears still while you torqued the pinion and input nuts? Or did you use an impact wrench?

Thanks,

Babak
No. If I remember correctly, impact wrenches are only used for removal on those, not installation.

I attached an old clutch disk to the wall with wood and lag bolts. Then insert the input shaft into it and it acts as a lock. You need to rest the transmission on something. I used pieces of cut up planks. Also, I think I needed to wrench a 2x4 against the transmission while i was torquing the large nut to counteract the rotational force. It wasn't pefect, but it worked.


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Old 11-26-2011, 04:12 PM
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