Help with distributor points

[pszemia]

Hi everyone, today i took the car out of the mechanic after changing brakes discs, and rebuild calipers. He told me that he "found" the points at the distributor where not working anymore, and that caused the car not to start, or to start with 2/3 cylinders only.

That freaked me out, because when i gave him the car it was working like a new car, with no problems. So he told me he touched the points, and adjusted them to 0.35 and that i should change them to a pointless system.

So my question is, should i change to a pointless system, or just buy a new set of points to my car?

And if the recommendation is to change the point to a pointless, should i change anything else?? (i have no Bosch CDI, just an universal CDI, with a common 12v coil made here, in argentina but workibng great)

I have to say, that after the last setup, in last november, never had a problem with them, until today that i took the car out again.

Thanks!!

Ariel

[911pcars]

Maybe consider another tech?

He should be able to test or create a spark if the points are not adjusted or faulty. It's just an on/off switch.

Dist. breaker point gap is typically around 0.016", not 0.035" which is more typical of a spark plug gap. Not sure if this gap is large enough to prevent the points from closing and building the mag. field. Ask him to "retouch" the gap to spec and try again. If he can't diagnose a breaker point ign. system, not sure he would know how to diagnose no spark with a breakerless system.

Are breaker points that old-school at this point in time?

Sherwood

[kidrock]

points are inexpensive, and very easy to replace. I'd put in some new ones, set the gap according to specs, and worry about a "pointless" setup later. Sounds like your mechanic may be trying to scam you.

[Brent Lineker]

+1 on replacing the points,only around $5 or so for points and a five or ten minute job putting them in.I can't remember my gap but I think it was .014 or so.

[berettafan]

no way anybody who can't accurately set a points ignition would EVER touch my 911. that's just lunacy.

however to give the benefit of the doubt there could be something getting lost in translation here.

[911pcars]

Not sure why the points need replacing unless it's needed. Save yourself the $20 ($5 cost to the shop) and the non-inconsequential labor charge (+$60/hr) to R&R, adjust and set timing. It should be on his nickel since your drove it in initially. If he says the points are NG, ask for the old set back upon completing the repair, then have it checked out by an objective tech.

Points seldom short out. More likely the contacts become pitted, but that doesn't prevent the ign. system from operating.

Sherwood

[tmctguer]

i owned my '73 911 for 7 years before i finally changed my points to a Pertronix pointless ignition system. I got so tired of goofing with point gap. I am SOOOO happy i finally made the change.

if you like to tinker with timing, keep the points and learn how to gap them yourself. but if you want convenience, move over to the dark side with me.

[JFairman]

There's alot less to go wrong with points and condensor so they get my vote in an older touring car.
.016" sounds about right, but a search would tell.

People have used matchbook covers as a feeler gauge to set them in an emergency.

[RoninLB]

new points have to wear in

[DanielDudley]

If you have wear on the distributor shaft, the points cam will wobble, and a stock gap may be too small and erratic for a decent spark.

Try resetting the gap, and make sure that there is a small dab of grease behind tge rubbing block, to prevent it from wearing away and changing the gap. Grab the distributor shaft at the top, and wobble it, to see if it changes the points gap. If so, you need a new distributor, or you need to go pointless.

[Porsche-O-Phile]

There's nothing wrong with points. They're easy, simple and a hell of a lot cheaper than a pointless system.

Not to mention, I actually LIKE the thought of not having any electronics junk in my car. I can actually fully understand how everything works and if necessary, fix it.

Stick with the points. If this tech can't deal with them, go elsewhere.

[pszemia]

i think i'll go for new points...

how can i know which ones should i get? because remember i live in Argentina, and here we don't have pelican to deliver our products

[briancoates]

If you change to a electronic distributor you will also have to hange your CDI and coil, gets expensive. Wiring is also different.

[kidrock]

I would imagine that purchasing a set of points for your Porsche would be as easy as going to your local parts store. I just don't believe that a set of points in Argentina would be rare.

But in the event that points cannot be purchased in Buenos Aires, a good bet would be to make a call to a specialist in Brazil. It's a Porsche, not a Yugo. There has to be a decent parts source for Porsches in South America!!!

[Sigurd]

I do assume the tech set the points to 0.35 mm, not inches. From the top of my head I think the setting for the Bosch distributor is 0.30 mm and the Marelli is 0.35.

[pszemia]

sigrud, yes i forgot the difference in measurements units, it's in 0.35mm not inches...

my question about the points is, if there is any designation on it, so i can order..

as far as i could get, the part number from bosch is 1-237-013-061 but maybe there is another one that fit there, and i can get it here..

The problem of going to a shop and ask about a porsche points, the first thing, is they will charge more than it really costs, that's why i always go with the part number, or designation directly.. so i can avoid that..

[c911s]

I have a 73.5 T, just replaced all elec items, plugs wires, coil, dist cap, rotor and points,
set points to .35 mm and the engine would not start, tried numerous adjustments for a week.
Finally tossed the new coil and put in the old one. Got it started once, but dwell and timing were off. After adjustments could not get it to start again.
Yesterday I took the new points out and put in the old ones. First turn of key this am it fired up. Beats me what was wrong with the new stuff.
I only replaced everything because I spent a year with the engine out cleaning everything and replacing all gaskets, hoses etc.
Now it runs fine but I have oil leaks over my new SSI,s. Looks like the new exhaust gaskets are leaking, (also new turbo exhaust covers), maybe the new oil return tubes are leaking too. Just not interested in dealing with that stuff right now
Bought all the parts from our host; as an aside the new package of 4 plugs only had 3 inside.
Rebuilt alternator is not working today........
and I have an exhaust leak on 1 cylinder......
stuff happens, unfortunately

[pszemia]

new information..

a mechanic friend helped me, now new points, german made, adjusted to 38.6º dwell, and ignition timing at 5ºATDC with vaccum and aprox 4º-5º BTDC without vaccum.

tomorrow, going to the highway to check the rest, and adjust the idle CO% to optimal settings.

[Sigurd]

Looking forward to hear about the result

[175mph951]

You should adjust the points with a dwell meter rather then a feeler gauge, BUT A PETRONIX IS DEFINITALLY THE WAY TO GO