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Flyin Brian's Avatar
 
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You only want about 10% tongue weight. If you notice, the axles in the pictures are positioned toward the rear. Search the web for trailer building sites and you will find some ideas.

There are 2 types of brakes; axle brakes and break-away brakes. Axle brakes are a must and sufficient on one of the two axles for an open trailer. They are controlled via an interface with the car. Surge brakes are used in some applications, but are not optimal, nor legal for car haulers in some states.

The break-away is a safety feature that operates on a separate battery, when the trailer become un-coupled, a pin is pulled, sending current to the brakes and locking them.

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Old 07-14-2009, 01:49 PM
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Thanks for your answers.
Can you explain how do the trailer brakes work ?
Old 07-15-2009, 09:01 AM
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Trailer brakes are electric and tap into the cars system. U-Haul can provide the installation service, if you are in the US, or any travel trailer dealer could do the same.

Basically, a harness is wired into your vehicle that sends power to a controller which modulates your trailer brakes based on the level of braking you apply to the vehicle. The controller adjusts gain(level of pressure) and sync (how quickly the trailer brakes react to the car input). These outputs need to be adjusted based on the trailer load.
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Old 07-15-2009, 10:19 AM
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Flyin Brian
Thanks

I searched in the internet and found how trailer brakes work.

Last edited by donporfi; 07-15-2009 at 10:52 AM..
Old 07-15-2009, 10:41 AM
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Most new SUV and pickups that are capable of towing come oem w/ a harness prewired especially so w/ a tow package.

Ford even offers the controller built in to the dash. Most others you need to wire from the controller to the existing oem chassis harness, for some installs there is a separate adapter harness.

On my Toyota the chassis was prewired, so I bought a controller(Prodigy P3) and adapter harness, the controller is mounted to the dash and the adapter harness plugs in at both ends(the controller and a chassis socket next to the parking brake foot control).
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Old 07-15-2009, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyin Brian View Post
You only want about 10% tongue weight. If you notice, the axles in the pictures are positioned toward the rear. Search the web for trailer building sites and you will find some ideas.

There are 2 types of brakes; axle brakes and break-away brakes. Axle brakes are a must and sufficient on one of the two axles for an open trailer. They are controlled via an interface with the car. Surge brakes are used in some applications, but are not optimal, nor legal for car haulers in some states.

The break-away is a safety feature that operates on a separate battery, when the trailer become un-coupled, a pin is pulled, sending current to the brakes and locking them.
In fact, many states requires trailer brakes for any trailer over 2,000 lbs. (Ohio- 2,000; Illinois-3500; CA- 1500.) False economy to not get brakes on both axles too. Like a car, a trailer can't have too much brake capability. And the brake controller in the tow vehicle will be adjustable to set the correct braking performance for varyng loads. And as Flyin Brian noted, the break away setup is also a requirement in some states.

If you open this website, and scroll to the bottom, you'll see the 2009 listings of the individual state requirements. Handy to have:
http://trailerboats.com/images/elements/1863199_Tow_RatingsPDF.pdf
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Old 07-15-2009, 12:09 PM
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For trailers & Porsches, you always want more brakes. A set of Big Reds would look great on a trailer
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Old 07-15-2009, 02:12 PM
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Neat idea. they operate in a different manor, being hydraulic, but it would be a cool engineering project to make work.
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Old 07-16-2009, 06:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GH85Carrera View Post
For trailers & Porsches, you always want more brakes. A set of Big Reds would look great on a trailer
Thats not true at all. The modern e-brake controllers are not only adjustable for load but also proportional in operation. They can be adjusted for 0 to max load and the brakes only work as hard as they need to to keep up w/ the tow vehicle braking
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Old 07-16-2009, 07:22 AM
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solution cheapo

tow dolly. ***** to load, easy tow, front pretty close to the road. Hit 90mph once and will never do it again. best towing speed is 65-70. beats leaving the car in ohio when you live in MD.
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Old 07-16-2009, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Verburg View Post
Most new SUV and pickups that are capable of towing come oem w/ a harness prewired especially so w/ a tow package.

Ford even offers the controller built in to the dash. Most others you need to wire from the controller to the existing oem chassis harness, for some installs there is a separate adapter harness.

On my Toyota the chassis was prewired, so I bought a controller(Prodigy P3) and adapter harness, the controller is mounted to the dash and the adapter harness plugs in at both ends(the controller and a chassis socket next to the parking brake foot control).
+1 on the Prodigy brake controler ! I love the adjustability.
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Old 07-16-2009, 08:24 AM
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With all this discussion of trailers, let's not forget the tow vehicle too. A lightweight rig like mine (2500 lb car, 1100 trailer, 350 lbs of wheels and tires on the tire rack, misc tools and parts 250 lbs) is up to 4200 lbs. This requires a Class III receiver, a good tow vehicle, etc. Not going to pull this with a Honda Pilot (3500-4500 rating depending on year) or a lot of minivans.

Need a good hitch. A simple 2000 lb hitch that you get for $100 from Autozone won't be legal or safe. Will need a good receiver if the tow vehicle isn't already so equipped.
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Old 07-16-2009, 03:24 PM
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I am right on the limit on my Pilot at 4500 lbs. My hitch and receiver is rated at 7500 as is the trailer itself. I don't load any extras and have no trouble towing the 911. I am very impressed with it's performance towing.
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Old 07-16-2009, 04:35 PM
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Don't want to go too far OT here, but where are the advantages to electric brakes over surge brakes?

Most of the trailers under 3.5 metric tons GVW here use surge brakes - and not even hydraulic surge brakes, but cable activated. I have a tandem axle car trailer rated at 2t set up like this and I've towed with my carpenter's 3.5t trailer quite often (loaded to around 3.6t once or twice according to the scales at the quarry I was getting gravel from) which has this setup as well. No probs, easy to drive. My tow vehicle is a Range Rover (2.2t curb weight).

I understand the adjustability in electric brakes w/controllers - but is this even necessary? Generally boat trailers have surge brakes - even very big boat trailers with big, heavy boats being towed by vehicles lighter than the trailer. What are Europeans missing out on? Seems to me the KISS-principle speaks very much for the setup on my trailer...
Old 07-17-2009, 03:49 AM
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Originally Posted by stevemfr View Post
Don't want to go too far OT here, but where are the advantages to electric brakes over surge brakes?

Most of the trailers under 3.5 metric tons GVW here use surge brakes - and not even hydraulic surge brakes, but cable activated. I have a tandem axle car trailer rated at 2t set up like this and I've towed with my carpenter's 3.5t trailer quite often (loaded to around 3.6t once or twice according to the scales at the quarry I was getting gravel from) which has this setup as well. No probs, easy to drive. My tow vehicle is a Range Rover (2.2t curb weight).

I understand the adjustability in electric brakes w/controllers - but is this even necessary? Generally boat trailers have surge brakes - even very big boat trailers with big, heavy boats being towed by vehicles lighter than the trailer. What are Europeans missing out on? Seems to me the KISS-principle speaks very much for the setup on my trailer...
For one thing surge brakes are a PIA when backing up
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Old 07-17-2009, 04:56 AM
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a slightly different approach

Electric brakes work whenever the tow vehicles brakes are used and there is also a "runaway" safety function to engage the brakes if the trailer were to come disconnected from the tow vehicle. A lot depends on your tow vehicle; if you're pulling it with a 924 (not recommended) then you might have to back the car onto the trailer. Also the smaller the pulling vehicle the more important the brakes are. I pull mine with a Ford F-250 and the difference of forwards or backwards would be negligible. But then my trailer also weighs 3500 lbs. empty.

I use a 16' x 8.5' enclosed Haulmark to haul 911's or whatever other "treasure" I've come upon in the classifieds. It works great for me. It's about the smallest real enclosed car trailer (that I've seen). With the car in the trailer there is about 2 feet extra space, one in front and one in back or whatever.... I considered an open trailer but as much as I don't use it, it would have been an eyesore and a wasted space in my yard. This enclosed trailer serves a dual purpose; when I'm not hauling cars it holds all my lawn mowers, motorcycle and other junk that would otherwise clutter up my garage. It is the perfect storage shed.

Dale

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Old 07-17-2009, 05:59 AM
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For one thing surge brakes are a PIA when backing up
The brakes release automatically when backing. Sometimes - usually when the trailer is already turned in relation to the vehicle - you can feel light pressure that suddenly releases when starting to back up - that's all though. I've got a pretty long driveway. I do quite a bit of backing with the trailer both heavy and unloaded.

Last edited by stevemfr; 07-17-2009 at 06:35 AM..
Old 07-17-2009, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by dalematt View Post
Electric brakes work whenever the tow vehicles brakes are used and there is also a "runaway" safety function to engage the brakes if the trailer were to come disconnected from the tow vehicle. A lot depends on your tow vehicle; if you're pulling it with a 924 (not recommended) then you might have to back the car onto the trailer. Also the smaller the pulling vehicle the more important the brakes are. I pull mine with a Ford F-250 and the difference of forwards or backwards would be negligible. But then my trailer also weighs 3500 lbs. empty.
All trailers here are required to have a ripcord which applies the brakes if the trailer breaks away from the tow vehicle. Most of the time (at least on the ones I've seen) there is a handbrake lever that manually pulls the brake cables. This lever is extended below the fulcrum which is where the ripcord attaches.

As far as size/weight differences between the trailer and the tow vehicle go: I'd venture to guess that the weight difference between the average European vehicle and the average trailer load is greater than in the US. No pickups here and small cars - still the same heavy junk to schlepp around though. I can see the difference causing all sorts of safety issues in towing - just not with the brakes. Kinda like a little person applying manual brakes vs. a big person.
Old 07-17-2009, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by dalematt View Post
Electric brakes work whenever the tow vehicles brakes are used and there is also a "runaway" safety function to engage the brakes if the trailer were to come disconnected from the tow vehicle. A lot depends on your tow vehicle; if you're pulling it with a 924 (not recommended) then you might have to back the car onto the trailer. Also the smaller the pulling vehicle the more important the brakes are. I pull mine with a Ford F-250 and the difference of forwards or backwards would be negligible. But then my trailer also weighs 3500 lbs. empty.

I use a 16' x 8.5' enclosed Haulmark to haul 911's or whatever other "treasure" I've come upon in the classifieds. It works great for me. It's about the smallest real enclosed car trailer (that I've seen). With the car in the trailer there is about 2 feet extra space, one in front and one in back or whatever.... I considered an open trailer but as much as I don't use it, it would have been an eyesore and a wasted space in my yard. This enclosed trailer serves a dual purpose; when I'm not hauling cars it holds all my lawn mowers, motorcycle and other junk that would otherwise clutter up my garage. It is the perfect storage shed.



Well, this thread has bounced around quite a bit so I will ask this question.

Dale,
Do you have a difficult time strapping in the front of your car in such a small enclosed trailer? How do you get around the front of the car to strap in the front left side?
Thanks,
Jim

Dale
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Old 07-17-2009, 07:32 AM
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Plenty of room to walk all the way around the car inside if you park it right. It's 8' wide on the inside, a 911 isn't nearly that. You just don't want to eat too big of a breakfast before you get in/out of the car..... I would take a nice picture for you but all you'd see is my lawn mower etc. right now....

Yeah, amazing how quickly threads grow, exponentially.....

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Old 07-17-2009, 08:06 AM
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