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James Brown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Bellingham, WA
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Oil weight discussions pail in comparison to ZDDP content in your oil. Your required reading lesson is this, read the engine oil thread on this forum, then report back to us what oil you will be running. we can TELL you but if you read it, you will understand so much more about oil than you thought you ever would, good luck/

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08 Cayenne Turbo
Old 01-11-2010, 10:20 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #21 (permalink)
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: East Bay - S.F. Bay Area
Posts: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by liberty43 View Post
Michael-

What were your thoughts on the M1 0W 40? Especially for colder climates here in the hills (albeit still in California). It'll be 35-55 degrees for another couple months, think the heavier weight will still suffice?
Among the choices for M1, my vote would be not to use the 0W-40 in this car in preference to the 15W-50 (even though I use that oil exclusively in my Saab 9-5 Aero and it's the factory recommended oil for modern Porsches). First of all, from all I've read no manufacturer requires single-digit viscosity numbers until it gets seriously cold - well below freezing for weeks on end. The low temps you and I encounter during the winter are actually pretty wimpy compared to what others put up with in other parts of the country, as well as in Europe where these cars were manufactured. For example, the owner's manual for our cars cautions to not use 20W-50 "at constant temperatures below +5 degrees F". That's pretty cold and that's 20 wt. they're talking about.

But the main reason is that M1 0W-40 has less zinc and phosphorous:
Phosphorus - 1000 PPM
Zinc - 1100
Now, those aren't bad numbers, but still. If you get a little more in 15W-50 for the same money, I'd take it! It's supposed to make a difference, and it's the recommendation from Mobil themselves for "flat tappet" applications (that's us).
Old 01-12-2010, 11:13 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #22 (permalink)
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I've decided to go with an old $3.99 case of Pennzoil I found in the back of a Circle K. I'll be reporting back within the next 5000-15000 miles on it's much expected performance qualities. Something tells me this is the stuff. Sean Pitt (Brad Penn?) motor oils look out.
Old 01-13-2010, 06:04 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #23 (permalink)
Now in 993 land ...
 
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: L.A.-> SF Bay Area
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liberty43 View Post
...Still curious if anyone knows how to remove window tinting without ruining the defroster wires (they are glued on from he inside, is that correct?).
I'd go to a good tint shop (a place with references). I do all my work myself, but I stay away from tinting or tint removing. It is one of those skilled jobs that benefit a lot from practice and the right tricks / materials.

Another thought is that you may need a new rubber seal in the rear window earlier than later. If this is the case, you may want to remove the tint while the window is out. This would be a very good time.

Indeed, IIRC the heater element is bonded on from the inside. They are metal traces, not round wires, but you will not be able to go at it with a blade / spatula without possibly hurting these.

George
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Old 01-13-2010, 06:18 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #24 (permalink)
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Removing tint

I followed the instructions on this page for removing the tint on my 928. Around the defroster wires I used a plastic scraper like an old credit card on a hot day with plenty of Windex on it. If it is sticking too well on a wire, spray and soak until it softens.
http://www.tintdude.com/remove.html

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Old 01-14-2010, 04:27 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #25 (permalink)
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