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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: N/A
Posts: 351
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The part of my SC I hate the most right now
Getting ready to remove A arms for new bushings....guess what won't come off despite my pounding the crap out of it despite weeks on PB application (ps JWalker was right!)?
![]() ![]() Many have talked about using a pipe wrench / extension on the nut on the ball joint but I only see about 1/8" of width to grab the nut....any pics on how to do that? where do you grab with pipe wrench? ![]()
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"Penelope" 1980 SC Targa in Grand Prix White |
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Marietta, Ga (Atlanta)
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As I posted to your previous thread: A Arm removal - easier to remove top or bottom of ball joint?
You have run into precisely the problem I had with my '80SC. To remove the ball joints, you'll need an at least 18' pipe wrench with some pretty sharp teeth. I know there is only about an 1/8in to work with on the nut, but pull the cotter pin out, remove the "disc", and get as good a grip as you can with the wrench. Believe me, it can be done. To get the wedge pins out of your struts, I would suggest you remove the struts after you get the balljoints loose. Put them in a vise or something solid and use a large punch or drift and beat the pins like hell. Hopefully they will turn loose! Next problem, your balljoint shaft will be stuck in the strut. You'll need a suspension "pickle fork" to separate them. My job that I thought would take a couple of hours became an all day affair, due to those damned wedge pins! Good luck! Grant
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'80SC Widebody 3.6 transplant Anthracite "The Rocket" Long gone but still miss them all: '77 911 Targa, '72 BMW 3.0CS Coupe(finest car I ever had!) '71 911T Coupe White, '70 911T Coupe Blue '68 911 Coupe Orange, '68 911L Soft Window Targa |
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Quote:
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"Penelope" 1980 SC Targa in Grand Prix White |
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grateful user
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Take a dull chisel and hammer and wack them loose once the safty retainer is off. You are going to mess them up with a pipe wrench any way, but they can be reused a few times either way you do it. There is a special spanner wrench to take off the ball joint nut. I think the nuts are around 20 bucks apiece.
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fully disassembled, blasted, customized and restored 75 targa with factory hard top, 993 style turbo ft fenders, steel flares, C2 bumpers and rockers, 82 3.0 sc 9.5/1 engine with PMS flywheel, 964 cams, flowed heads, ssi's short geared 915 w/lsd, polybronze, bilstein,working lambda, modified and highly tuned cis, tensioners, pop valve, backdated exhaust and heater, 2300 lbs. no bolt left untouched. 1970 911E. Nice car but needs a re-do. |
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Newcastle, WA
Posts: 966
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If it's the wedge pin you can't get out, back the nut off a few mm, then hit it to force the wedge pin out the other side.
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Chalfont Pa
Posts: 1,548
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Do what SP2 said to do. It worked for me too!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Registered
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I used an air hammer on the nut. also use heat to melt the loctite... came right off...
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83 SC Targa -- 3.2SS, GT2-108 Dougherty Cams, 9.5:1 JE Pistons, Supertec Studs, PMO ITB's, MS2 EFI, SSI's, Recurved Dizzy, MSD, Backdated Dansk Sport Stainless 2 in 1 out, Elephant Polybronze, Turbo Tie Rods, Bilstein HD's, Hollow 21-27 TBs, Optima Redtop 34R, Griffiths-ZIMS AC, Seine Shifter, Elephant Racing Oil Cooling. |
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Docking Bay 94
Posts: 7,015
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On the driver's side neither would budge on mine either. I tried the pipe wrench, the hammer and chisel - nothing! I finally cut it off with a Dremmel - five minutes. Why did I waste so much time on the other methods. On my wedge pin, It would not come out. Finally bought a very nice dead-blow hammer (with punch) and pounded on it.
Strangely, the pass side came apart easily.
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Kurt |
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Tim
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Castle nut -> Dremel
Wedge Pin -> BFH When I was doing this job I also lubricated myself with some beer on a regular basis to minimize the wear on my nerves ![]() |
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