HELP!!!!! Spring Arm to Trailing arm missing bolts

[Mingus]

I can where the washer and bolts once were... Odd thing is they are missing on both sides. Anyone else ever experience this? The PO had lowered the car prior to my purchase, I wonder if they just forgot the top trailing arm to spring plate/arm bolts? I am assuming they are necessary, although I haven't noticed any problems in the 6000 odd miles I driven in the last 2 years.

Thoughts? Should I install the m12 1.5 35mm bolts, washers and nuts on the top (i think those are the specs of the bottom ones). Flange bolt?




See my rebuild here at My 911 SC Minor Overhaul

[Mingus]

anyone????

[Danny_Ocean]

I just checked my car. Bolts are there. Aren't those bolts used for adjusting rear alignment? Perhaps a hung-over alignment tech forgot to install them.

I would just install some bolts and go.

[Bob Clucas]

Absolutely you should put those in, that's what holds the whole thing together!

Bob

[pete3799]

Put them in ....ASAP!

[bkreigsr]

I found out mine was loose on one side when I did an autox. the car had a mind of it's own.
yes replace asap .... Bill K

[Mingus]

Thy will be done...

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by Mingus

anyone????

Mingus,

I have several OEM nuts and bolts sitting in my garage. Take care of the shipping cost and will send you two (2) sets or more. FedEx if you need ASAP or flat rate box from USPS ($5) would take care of the shipping expenses. Let me know your decision. I could have them ready by tomorrow.

Tony

[Flieger]

Originally Posted by Danny_Ocean

I just checked my car. Bolts are there. Aren't those bolts used for adjusting rear alignment? Perhaps a hung-over alignment tech forgot to install them.

I would just install some bolts and go.

The alignment one are in the middle of the spring plate. The bolts connecting the banana to the spring plate are both necessary.

[Chuck Moreland]

You shouldn't drive the car till those are replaced.

It is likely your alignment settings have drifted. I would have the alignment checked.

[Danny_Ocean]

Originally Posted by Flieger

The alignment one are in the middle of the spring plate. The bolts connecting the banana to the spring plate are both necessary.

If they're not used for alignment, why are they slotted?

[Walt Fricke]

Well, they are used for alignment.

If you adjust the toe, things have to slide fore or aft. If you adjust the camber, one sort of goes one way, and the other the other way. So for an alignment they are loosened, the adjusters are turned so things are where you want them to be, and then these are tightened back down. One of the adjusters serves to clamp the front of this business also.

On my track car I use old 12mm flywheel bolts with some matching nuts I purchased. Those are strong suckers. But any 8.8 or better 12mm bolt of about the right length and nut (with appropriate washers - not flimsey fender washers) would do.

[Mingus]

thanks for all the help. chuck, i will be getting the alignment checked as i am readjusting height after taking out all heat, a/c, stock exhaust for headers, cis for bitz efi...i've already sacrificed enough weight that i'm a little high in the rear end...(that didn't sound good)

[Jdub]

Late to this discussion but it seems obvious that the car was lowered by amateurs and they left out the bolts to accommodate the bodge. Since you are probably replacing all the bushings anyways (spring arm; bannana arm, drop links, etc.) you will have ample opportunity to fix this. By the way, the car will be transformed with this basic suspension R&R with bushings that old.

I have done this on my '78 and it is pretty straighforward - you can do this yourself for certain.

[Mingus]

whats a bodge?

[Flieger]

A repair/upgrade job done to a low standard using questionable engineering and/or materials and performed by a "hack mechanic".

[Mingus]

thanks max

[KTL]

Some M12 bolts, a washer each for the bolt head and the nut, and a lock nut can be had at your local hardware store. Ace Hardware typically has a good selection of metric. For that connection where a lot of force is supported, a minimum of a 10.9 class metric bolt should be used. I'm sure Ace has 12.9 allen head bolts that would fit that location no problem.

Not trying to diminish the charity of Tony's offer to send you some. Just saying there's got to be some local source up there in cheeseland!

[Mingus]

thanks kevin. i picked them up already (truvalue rather than ace). got flange bolts in 10.9, stainless flat and lock washers and hex and nylock stainless nuts. think i should use nylock or hex and lock washer?

[KTL]

I'd use just plain steel washers and nuts. When you mix stainless and non-stainless, the differing materials can induce corrosion and the threads gall. Plus the stainless washers might collapse a bit when you torque the nuts to spec, as the stainless washers are usually a bit thin.

I like regular nuts and lock washers myself. The nylocks are techincally supposed to be a one time use only. But i'll admit i'm guilty of reusing them alot. The factory nuts are actually neither plain nor nylock. They're deformed thread all metal locknuts. But any of the three will work ok. It's not like these are removed very frequently.

Back to stainless.......not always a good choice because while it's hard, it's not as strong as some of the basic grade steel fasteners. I looked up the specs of multiple grades of stainless M12 hex head bolt and all had a lower ultimate strength rating than just a basic M12 8.8 property class screw.

The flange bolts are nice. I like using those wherever I can. If you had a serrated flange (mechanical locking surface underneath) in 10.9, i'd say you found a real nice choice. Just use regular steel nuts, plain with lock washers or nylock, and you'll be all set.