Suspension bushing installation

turbo dave · turbo dave's Garage

Hello, all-

This is a stupid question, but are there any instructions available for the front a-arm bushing installation? I did a search here, found some very useful information, but no instructions. No Pelican or (shameful pause here) Rennlist technical articles, nothing in "101 Projects". Haven't checked Hayes yet, is that where the instructions are? Or (likelier still) is everybody here just smarter than I am, and is the process so easy, only a monkey would need instructions?

Also, is there a way to do it without disconnecting the ball joint? Just wondering if dropping the strut makes any sense at all.

Thanks, sorry if I am belabouring the obvious.

widebody911 · widebody911's Garage

I've stated one - still need to finish entering the text and getting everything in the right order:

http://www.vintagebus.com/howto/susp

CamB · CamB's Garage

Do it now Thom

Do you have to disconnect the strut top etc? I am told no.

In fact, I am told it is easy. I plan to find out tonight or on Saturday. No digital camera, so can't take pics quickly.

Cam

Otto · 02-18-2002, 06:10 PM

Ok, here we go. I will try to do this in laymans terms. With the cars front end up, take a torch to the front "A" arm bushing retainer and heat it till you hear asizzling sound, then take the bushing retainer cover off and then you can slice the old hard rubber bushing in half. You then need to heat the rear "A" bushing retainer till you get that sizzling noise and remove the bushing retainer and slice the rear bushing in half. Then you need to remove all the old rubber with a wire wheel, sand paper or scraper. Just make sure that all in antiseptic before installing the new bushings. Also use the bushing grease that the bushing supplier sells. You don't need to remove the ball joint, but why try this with your hands tied? OTTO

GIBSON · GIBSON's Garage

Otto, got any advice for removing the ball joint. Even with the correct tool they can be a bear to loosen. Some have been so tight for me I've removed the entire strut assembly to get it on the workbench.
I've never tried the "sizzle" method for removing the old bushings but it makes sense. I've pulled the hole arm out and melted the old bushings with a torch. Makes a rather smokey mess. Your way seems a lot cleaner.

Bruce Herrmann

Otto · 02-19-2002, 07:13 AM

Removing the ball joint from the strut should be a no brainer, but removing the ball joint retaining nut is another thing. Snap-on sells a tool that we use for installation only. To remove the old ball joint retainer, just use a really big chisel and a hammer. We always use cotton gloves when working on the cars. It saves your skin from little boo-boos. OTTO

GIBSON · GIBSON's Garage

Thanks Otto, it's the ball joint from the strut I was speaking of, I've used the chisel as well, saving the tool for installation.
Glad to know I'm not the only one.

turbo dave · turbo dave's Garage

Sorry for the continued stupidity, but is there any danger using a torch so close to the gas tank? I'm sure the heat doesn't travel that far, just being cautious.

Also, would either of you, Otto or Gibson, please explain the chisel/ball joint retainer removal? Is the castellated nut too difficult to remove with a socket? Also, would a regular socket round the nut when installing?

Thanks for your help,

Craig Stevens · 02-19-2002, 02:54 PM

David, I just completed my front end rebuild. I used a pipe wrench with a 2' long pipe on the end of the wrench. I also soaked the nut with nut blaster. I had a more difficult time removing the bolt that holds the ball-joint to the spindle. I had to drill them out. Craig

mm86911 · mm86911's Garage

I just did a suspension upgrade in December that included beefier tbars, rack spacers, frt CA bushings and spring plate bushings (already had new ball joints, struts, and turbo tie-rods).

Removed the front CAs with ball joint intact by removing the swedge bolt from the spindle. (Be sure to support the spindle assembly on jack stands to prevent damage to the strut and ease the reinstall). Made bushing removal much easier (using propane torch to heat, twisting off with little cleanup needed). Cut grooves into new busings and lubed well. Reassembly was simple - line everything up and reinstall.

Of course had to detail and paint the CAs when they were off the car.

Otto · 02-19-2002, 03:43 PM

Turbo Dave, we are talking about the retainer on the bottom of the a arm that holds the ball joint to the a arm. The castelated nut is easy, the pin through the shock housing(either "U" or "V" shaped) is easy also. OTTO

T Bird · 02-20-2002, 05:35 AM

Interesting post- I'm planning to R&R the A arm bushings this summer and have already purchased the necessary parts as well as the Porsche tool to remove the castellated nut that secures the ball joint to the A arm. From the above traffic, I have the following questions:

1) What's the problem with using the Porsche tool to remove the castellated nut? Why is a chisel recommended for removal, as opposed to the correct tool? Stated another way, why is the tool suggested only for installation, and not removal?

2) If the castellated nut presents a problem on removal with a normal breaker bar and Porsche tool, I was planning on using the Porsche tool in conjunction with my 1/2 drive impact wrench. Does anyone think that this is problematic? Seems to me that this is the easiest way to bust off the sucker.

Any thoughts?

Thanks guys.

Graham Archer · 02-20-2002, 06:40 AM

John,

I had no problems with the castellated nut that secures the ball joint to the A arm. I used the Porsche tool on the end of 380 ft-lb impact gun. For the wedge pin, I used a large C-clamp with a socket over the flush end. The amount of force required was impressive.

02-20-2002, 10:00 AM

Turbo dave I am right above I-90 next to the east channel bridge aka the non floating mi bridge.
If you want I would more than happy to show you what everyone is talking about. Also have all the tools to do it.
Just a thought.
Chris

Otto · 02-20-2002, 10:08 AM

T-BIRD, it is not the castelated nut that holds the tie rod end to the tie rod, but the BALL JOINT RETAINER that is difficult to remove!!!!!!!!! OTTO

turbo dave · turbo dave's Garage

Thanks all for the advice, and thanks cwood for the offer. I crawled under the car last night, and spent some time on the Hayes manual, and all seems crystal clear, with one exception: what is the drawback to leaving the ball joint on the a-arm, as mm86911 suggested? It seems much simpler, is it only because most here tend to replace the ball joint at the same time? Otherwise, looks straightforward, I'm looking forward to it.

Thanks again-

T Bird · 02-20-2002, 10:42 AM

Otto
Sorry to confuse. I am NOT asking about the castellated nut on the tie rod end, but the ball joint nut (part number 901.341.425.00-- the "grooved retainer nut" in Porsche parlance) that threads onto the bottom of the ball joint and secures it to the A arm. You recommend removal with a chisel and installation with the tool. Why not use the tool for removal as well as installation?

Jdub · 02-20-2002, 01:03 PM

T Bird:

Taking my best shot here... ;>

A lot of folks just replace that nut out of habit if it is the original item. That, along with the fact that the nut can be a bear to break free, means using throwaway tools on a throwaway item, reserving the new tool and nut for the installation of a part that might last another 80,000 miles and thus "deserves" a tool that will not scar it.

Also, what is a spindle in a strut? Or rather, how is a spindle different from a strut as per below:

Quote:

Removed the front CAs with ball joint intact by removing the swedge bolt from the spindle. (Be sure to support the spindle assembly on jack stands to prevent damage to the strut and ease the reinstall).

The swedge pin (tapered pin) is at the bottom of the strut, right? So what is the spindle? I am sure there is something I am missing here but trying to get a mental picture of this.

John

T Bird · 02-20-2002, 01:33 PM

Jdub
I'm with Graham on this. If the tool is good enough to install the nut, it's good enough to remove it. The whole purpose of dropping $50 on the tool was to ease removal and installation. Why bust my knuckles with a chisel? Besides, using the tool should save the nut so that it can be re-used. Using a chisel could damage the nut. If the nuts are stubborn, the impact wrench will fix the problem. That is, unless someone has another explanation?

KTL · 02-20-2002, 01:47 PM

John,

The spindle is the shaft that the wheel hub/brake disc/wheel bearing assembly is attached to.

My ball joints came off well with the impact. I can see why Otto would say to use it for installation. The impact beats on the socket pretty good. Probably could wear it out sorta quick if you do a lot of work with the socket on the impact. Probably takes a little practice to get the right technique to remove with a chisel (I remember John Walker recommended this technique as well). I'm sure i'd just make removal more difficult by trashing the ball joint threads and body with the chisel!

Just my $.02