'84 - '88 Carrera cheap(er) DME speed and reference sensors available

[kidrock]

Joe Bob, I somehow got lucky. There was enough oily mess to where the sensors slid out with the slightest manipulation, just a slight back-and-forth jiggle combined with a gentle pull on the bases. I think I may have loosened an allen head to get them out, I don't remember if I completely removed it though.

I didn't even need to remove the retainer bracket, nor did I need to adjust the bracket or sensors upon reinstallation. The suckers just slid out, then gently slid back in again. Just make sure you slide 'em in all the way, just the way she likes it.

I bet you can give these things a small douching of PB Blaster to get 'em to break free.

[rusnak]

Just take the bracket completely off, a clean it. Use a remote starter to bump the flywheel around, and check and clean the reference bolt. A very thin dab of clean grease may help installation of the old sensor, with a washer glued on there to set the spacing. Remove old sensors. Install the new grommet, then the connectors, then the new sensors.

[Joe Bob]

So.....the 3.6 sensors.....same as the 3.2s?

[Joe Bob]

Reason I ask, while the 3.2 and 3.6 share a similar EFI, the part number for the 3.6 sensor is different. 996-606-105-00-M14

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by kidrock

Joe Bob, I somehow got lucky. There was enough oily mess to where the sensors slid out with the slightest manipulation, just a slight back-and-forth jiggle combined with a gentle pull on the bases. I think I may have loosened an allen head to get them out, I don't remember if I completely removed it though.

I didn't even need to remove the retainer bracket, nor did I need to adjust the bracket or sensors upon reinstallation. The suckers just slid out, then gently slid back in again. Just make sure you slide 'em in all the way, just the way she likes it.

I bet you can give these things a small douching of PB Blaster to get 'em to break free.

Stone

That is the thread I PM you about, coincidental that ir resurface on the same day...

Thanks for the info (event the "code" one )

Is there a specific torque to secure them to the holder?

Cheers

J.J.

P.S. Who knows, you might even enjoy the show in Albuquerque

[DRACO A5OG]

Just make certain they are the same OD as the original that you pulled and it will press in with a bit of lube.

[kidrock]

JJ,

I'm super lazy and don't want to walk out to the garage to open up the Bentley to give you the torque specs.

I didn't even refer to the torque value when I installed them. In fact, I don't remember if I even needed to loosen or tighten any of those Allen bolts under there, but I may have. Just snug them up without giving yourself a hernia, what I like to call "Harley tight". Maybe about 16-22 ft. lbs.

[Jonny042]

Do the sensors commonly fail?

I have my engine and trans out, this would be a good "while I'm in there" thing to do. And $100.00 is like spitting in the ocean at this point.

[Determined]

bump to subscribe

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by Jonny042

Do the sensors commonly fail?

I have my engine and trans out, this would be a good "while I'm in there" thing to do. And $100.00 is like spitting in the ocean at this point.

That is what I said about $3k ago

You should be able to get the pair for $110 delivered at the border (US side).

[kidrock]

Originally Posted by Jonny042

Do the sensors commonly fail?

I have my engine and trans out, this would be a good "while I'm in there" thing to do. And $100.00 is like spitting in the ocean at this point.

I would say "yes". Be sure to keep your old ones for future diagnostics, you'll thank yourself later when trying to nail down another no-start scenario and you have 2 known good sensors for the job. I'd even go so far as to marking the old ones as "RPM" and "Crank", but since they're the same sensor basically, it may not matter.

Also, when replacing, make sure that each sensor is plugged into the correct socket in the engine bay near the left-hand intake manifold. It would suck to have a no-start issue just because of incorrect installation.

[Quicksilver]

Originally Posted by Jonny042

Do the sensors commonly fail?

I have my engine and trans out, this would be a good "while I'm in there" thing to do. And $100.00 is like spitting in the ocean at this point.

For $100 you can get a good used oscilloscope and just test the sensors without guessing blindly, plus you can use it for other stuff. You just need to see a 2.5 volt peak coming out of it.

[fatboyblake]

I've got an 1984 Targa that appears to have a bad sensor also. I can barely see the sensor never mind get a wrench on them. Is there a trick to getting at these suckers???

From top or underneath??

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by fatboyblake

I've got an 1984 Targa that appears to have a bad sensor also. I can barely see the sensor never mind get a wrench on them. Is there a trick to getting at these suckers???

From top or underneath??

Welcome aboard!

Disconnect rear strut, raise the driver side, place jack stands and chocks, remove rear wheel. you will see the two wires going into a bracket attached to the trans held by allen bolts. I would PB blast them or a good penetrating oil then remove.

Just mark the wires there and at the mounting bracket/connectors in the engine bay.

Of course remove the heater blowerr plastic hose to gain access to the connector mount/assembly.

BE CERTAIN YOU DO NOT TWIST THE NEW ONES IN, Before complete removal check the Diameter of the old ones compared to the new ones.

Jim

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by fatboyblake

I've got an 1984 Targa that appears to have a bad sensor also. I can barely see the sensor never mind get a wrench on them. Is there a trick to getting at these suckers???

From top or underneath??

F.B.B.

Welcome to the club.

Beside needing pics of your car (does not matter whether it work or not), we need to know (as a nosy group that might send you down the Garden Path) why you you thinks that it "appear to have a bad sensor also"?

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

Welcome aboard!

Disconnect rear strut, raise the driver side, place jack stands and chocks, remove rear wheel. you will see the two wires going into a bracket attached to the trans held by allen bolts. I would PB blast them or a good penetrating oil then remove.

Just mark the wires there and at the mounting bracket/connectors in the engine bay.

Of course remove the heater blowerr plastic hose to gain access to the connector mount/assembly.

BE CERTAIN YOU DO NOT TWIST THE NEW ONES IN, Before complete removal check the Diameter of the old ones compared to the new ones.

Jim

Jim

Post # 1... Unless he is holding back, you might have lost him somewhere

[DRACO A5OG]

Maybe Oh well we tried.

[steely]

Another BMW part user here - only wish I knew about the CHT (from Gregwils above) before I bought mine last year.

Wires appear white on my originals mine because the insulation crumbled off. Even after marking I succeeded in swapping the connectors - what a maroon.

[fatboyblake]

Thanks guys for all the replies. I just got back to a working computer.

The reason I thought it was the sensor is because I wasn't getting any power to the fuel pump. I jumped the fuel pump and still no start and then I checked the plugs and no spark either. All my internet searches indicate it was the crank sensor.

The car has been sitting in the garage for over three months but I will try to tackle it next week and hope I am right.

Bob