Front condenser fan won't run

[wwest]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

Thanks Brother, I've cleaned the heck out of the connectors at the fuse panel and insured a tight connection but when I turn the ac on the full "3" and put a infared thermometer, it gets freakin hot.

I will check the connectors at the components anyways to see which one is causing too much resistance. Process of elimination.

I did have my OEM Smugglers Box relay buzz like crazy, swapped with new and it stopped buzzing. did notice one of the wire look like it was melting prior to that.

Jim

Once those fuse block connectors, connections, have endured so much heat for so long they lose their "springiness", so it really doesn't help to bend them back into place. I either parallel the specific fuse with an out-rigger fuse holder or replace the fuse block section entirely.

[rusnak]

I've seen that done also with 30 amp relays, with good results.

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by wwest

Once those fuse block connectors, connections, have endured so much heat for so long they lose their "springiness", so it really doesn't help to bend them back into place. I either parallel the specific fuse with an out-rigger fuse holder or replace the fuse block section entirely.

Understood, so where can I get the replacement "fuse block" part? Will this reduce the heat as well or is the hi-heat a given?

Or could I take a existing fuse block and transplant/swap it, i.e. a low 5 or 8 amp block and place the "springless" block there?

Jim

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by rusnak

I've seen that done also with 30 amp relays, with good results.

Can't visualize the "out-riggger" set up?

[rusnak]

It's wire in parallel with the stock relay, and sort of operates as an adjunct, but you abandon the old relay. The fuse block can be replaced wholesale.

I need to replace my ac switch, or I'd have scanned mine with my infrared, and have given you my reading as a data point for you. Hopefully this weekend I'll have time to do it.

[rusnak]

I think that fuse runs the clutch. I wonder how many amps it's drawing. You say it heats up pretty fast?

[wwest]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

Understood, so where can I get the replacement "fuse block" part? Will this reduce the heat as well or is the hi-heat a given?

Or could I take a existing fuse block and transplant/swap it, i.e. a low 5 or 8 amp block and place the "springless" block there?

Jim

Fuse block source...Porsche.

Swap blocks...sure, but not an approach I would take.

[Markymike]

Problem solved. A/c relay not working. Nice that many are interchangeable.

Thanks again.

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by Markymike

Problem solved. A/c relay not working. Nice that many are interchangeable.

Thanks again.

Cool , sorry could not help myself.

Hey Rusnak, the fuse get's so hot it literally melts the fuse and shrinks then cuts the AC off. The other day while driving around on stage 3 "HI" I smelt burning plastic followed by a flickering AC Blower, System literally going on and off by itself.

Jumped out and the fuse melted yet again loose in the holder.

WWest, thank you I will try to find a new block, I assume our panels have three blocks so the first one is the one I need or can just the holder be replaced. I will search it out. Hell, or go ghetto and do the outrigger, I would if it can handle the heat???

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by Markymike

Problem solved. A/c relay not working. Nice that many are interchangeable.

Thanks again.

BTW which realy? In smuggler's box? Panel?

[rusnak]

I ended up going to Morro Bay last weekend, so no worky on my ac. Hopefully I will get it working and observe my fuse temp. I wonder how many amps you're pulling and if it'll melt again.

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by rusnak

I ended up going to Morro Bay last weekend, so no worky on my ac. Hopefully I will get it working and observe my fuse temp. I wonder how many amps you're pulling and if it'll melt again.

Oh yeah pretty constant on stage 3 , "HI" the fuse will melt. I will take pic and post

[kuehl]

Draco, why don't you simply put an amp meter on the evap motor lead?

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by kuehl

Draco, why don't you simply put an amp meter on the evap motor lead?

I would but mine only goes up to 10AMPs, may be not enough and destroy the DVM.

I went ahead and ordered a New Block only $21 plus 2 new rails $1.90 each. Well, we will see.

[kuehl]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

I would but mine only goes up to 10AMPs, may be not enough and destroy the DVM.

I went ahead and ordered a New Block only $21 plus 2 new rails $1.90 each. Well, we will see.

30 AMP panel meter, 2 pieces of wire, $12.00
Keep it in your tool box. You'll need it another day.

[rusnak]

Shoot, I've three or four multimeters. I'll let you borrow one - put it in the mail.

[kuehl]

Originally Posted by rusnak

Shoot, I've three or four multimeters. I'll let you borrow one - put it in the mail.

If he's testing the total load on that circuit he'll need an "amp meter" or an adapter for the MM that's good up to 30 amps. Most general purpose "multimeters" don't handle current readings up to that range without an accessory adapter. A simple analog panel meter comes in handy.... and batteries are not required !

[DRACO A5OG]

Thank you Gentlemen, I will visit the Electric Supply Store. like said I may need later