Nice to see that someone is takiing the time to properly care for this neglected 911. Seems like a continuous roller-coaster of 'oh cr@p, look what else the PO did' -- I think many might have given up long before this point and/or put in place other kludges just to get her back on the road quickly.

My hat's off to you, 911lvr, for your persistence, diligence, and taking the longer-term view.

Dale

Thanks! it has been a fun/interesting/learning adventure. I think i just about have everything I need to start putting it back together.

Thank you very much. I guess its just a labor of love for me. im addicted to these cars and know i will have more!

I know I wouldnt be anywhere near as far along as I am now without the awesome people on this board. thanks to all!SmileWavy

It really has been a good day. the final parts showed up today from a fellow pelican (THANKS!!) and so now I think I have everything I need. Parts to redo CIS (injectors, sleeves, orings, runner boots, fixed FD), parts for oil leaks ( the trinity and the oil cooler), wiring harness almost all fixed, Parts to rebuild the CV joints, misc little things like ground straps and the tensioners.

Also, I have ALL sat to myself with not a single commitment!! woo hoo. Guess what ill be doing?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313684478.jpg

Re-furbished engine around a bad cylinder?

Are you doing all this to confirm how the engine will run? If those numbers are accurate...... rough.

MHO,
Sherwood

So you are saying you disagree with the other opinions given?

It'll run like a Yugo with lung cancer.....

Actually, there doesn't seem to be much discussion about it after you posted the compression test results. Did I miss something? Is engine compression more or less equal now and close to spec? If so, please proceed.

Car enthusiasts are usually enamored over new/rebuilt engine pieces. However, as I suggested earlier, let's not get ahead of ourselves. YMMV.

Sherwood

That engine should be doing 140+ in each barrel. 90 in isn't good. Assuming the proceedure is correct.

Oil down the hole and no increase shows a suspect valve. I'd do a leak down.

Doing a valve job while not cheap is less than a total.

A douche with Sea Foam or RG 44 may get rid of carbon and bring up compression....if not you may have a valve seat about to drop and grenade a piston/cylinder....not to mention the head damage.

These are the opinions I was referring to after the compression test.

the compression is the same as I posted..all cylinders increased after I put the oil in but #4 is def down from the others as pointed out.

so your opinion if I understand you and joe bob correctly is the you feel im throwing good money after bad and you would at least pull the P&Cs and deal with them?

Seems like going in circles here...

I understood it that you, 911lvr, didn't want to drop 3k+ into a rebuild/replacement engine, just yet. AND considering all the other issues you are so diligently working through to correct on this (abused by PO) 911, you simply wanted to get it together and running.
Right?

I as others here believe you are doing the right thing by sorting out all the issues, and there have been a lot of them including getting this engine running FIRST, then if you don't like the performance or find other unforeseen issues go ahead and proceed with a rebuild/replacement.

If you do need to go the rebuild/replacement route in the future (and I'm betting at some point you will as most of us get addicted to the search for more power) you will have gained vast amounts of experience from your current efforts, enough in fact I believe you could perform the rebuild yourself!

I'll echo my original assessment of this 911 and say put the damn thing together and drive the $hitz out of it. If it runs like $hitz and if it can't be remedied by tuning then a quick engine drop/teardown etc will be within your abilities now that you are familiar with the 911

But if you have the time and $$$ now go ahead!

Most of us here understood you didn't want to drop the $$$ into this 911 just yet considering the overall condition, hence this awesome thread of you sorting out all at once what most of us do in the lifetime of 911 ownership!

You're doing a great job, continue....

SmileWavy

Thanks Jason.

im going to try to state my goals one more time so everyone will know what im trying to accomplish. Time is not a problem $$$ is. Its easy to drop a few hundred here and there but quiet another to drop many thousands. I do not have that ability to do so at this point. Im trying very hard to resurrect this 911 within my means and feel that I have done a pretty good job in doing so and fixing the many many indiscretions of the PO.

There are many different opinions stated here and im trying my best to sort thru it all.

Do I think this engine is in the ideal state? NO. Would i like to replace it with something better or do a complete rebuild. YES. Can I do either one right now or in the near future. NO. I dont have endless resources to be able to do that. What I do have is time and determination to make the best of the situation I have.

I also dont see it as a waste to say redo wiring harnesses, or to redo the CIS with new boots and injectors and orings. These are all things I can use again and wont hurt to do now. So lm playing a balancing act with this engine to get it to the best it can be with in the guidelines I have.

I hope this will maybe clear things up. I do appreciate all the feedback given.

the adventure continues..

I understand your goals, but a leakdown test would not be expensive or hard to perform on the low cylinder. If it's a valve, it doesn't mean a complete top-end. Perhaps it's out of adjustment, or for a couple of hundred bucks you can probably get that one head fixed. You don't even need a leak-down gauge, adapt your compression tester to an air line, bring the cylinder to top dead center, pump in 50# of air and listen for the leakage..... it will either be out the intake/exhaust, or you'll hear it through the breather.

#4 is down over 40%. Thats a red-flag.......

Agreed, leakdown isn't a bad idea (single cylinder leakdown) and if needed R&R wouldn't be too bad in the big picture if a little valve work is needed. Good thing the head studs are all present and accounted for!

I believe its possible these numbers reflect an engine that has not run in a very long time, its dry and in need of being brought up to temp etc.


Anywho, 911lvr is getting some good direction here and has a solid plan in place, it will be fun to watch as this 2.7 911 is brought back from the brink.

Carry on Marc!

The local parts store has a loaner leak down tester.. I will get it and do the test on the suspect cylinder tomorrow. im keeping my fingers crossed.

I'm not sure it will be a valid test. the motor sat for so long it would not be unheard of to have stuck rings or something. I would put the motor back in and do the test a couple weeks after you get it running.

Do you have that much time on your hands? If so, R&R drivetrain practice makes perfect.

Why not just turn the engine over by hand or with the starter as it sits (w/gearbox attached)? Ideally, the engine should be normal operating temp. for a valid leakage test numbers. However, you already know a cylinder is down on compression. You now want to confirm the source of compression loss. It being cold isn't going to change the leakage source.

Sherwood

James,
You should go back and re-read your post, it is less than ideal.
First, 911lvr said he will be getting a leakdown tester from the local parts store.
Second, if the engine is out, a leakdown test is much easier to do than when the engine is in.
Third, so what if there are "stuck rings or something" the leakdown test simply points to the amount of leakage (by percent) and where the air is going. It is a quantitative test and that makes it valid.
Fourth, a comparison with the other cylinders will help 911lvr make a diagnostic decision on which way to go with his rebuild-or-not choice.
Fifth, if you have ever properly used a leakdown tester, you would know how valid the test can be BEFORE putting in the engine back in and driving the car.

Just to set the record straight (as others have pointed out) if the leakdown % is less than 10, good to go. If the leakdown % is around 20, there is a cause for concern that the compression will be low. If the leakdown % is 30, then that cylinder will be down on power. If the leakdown % is 40 or greater then a engine bank rebuild should be considered.

Having said that, it is important to treat the leakdown % numbers as a tool, just like a wrench. If you hear the air escaping into the intake manifold or the exhaust, you have a valve defect or defects. See if you can adjust the leakdown numbers by tapping on the valve stem while the leakdown is running. Sometimes you can dislodge a bit of metal or carbon from the valve seat this way. Then check the valve adjustment.

If you hear air escaping into the engine cavity and out of an oil vent or thermostatic valve line, then you likely have a problem with rings. It could be broken rings or worn rings, the amount of leakdown will help you decide (after eliminating the valves).

You could also have a bad head gasket, you will hear (and feel) air rushing out from between the cylinder and the head.

Good Luck,
Mark