Thanks very much.. you have a pm

Thanks jason, jerry and james..hmm lots of J names with P cars.

on todays list besides family obligations, I hope to sneak away for a bit and do the CIS freshen up, New injectors, new sleeves, new o-rings for both and new runner boots.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313933949.jpg

yeah I would say these were in need of some replacing. I cant imagine how many leaks this thing had.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313936598.jpg

speaking of O-rings.. What opinions do you guys have, I have seen people install them dry, install them with a light coat of oil and people install them with a light coat of grease..What do you think?

+1!

I use silicone grease (same as dialectic grease).

I had a a little bit of time today between running kids to football and friends houses and was able to swap out the manual tensioners to the upgraded ones, with locking collars, new gaskets and nylok bolts. Hopefully, tomorrow I will have time to adjust the valves and maybe start bolting parts back on this thing..sooo close.. I can say that labor day weekend im going to try to labor in the garage as much as possible!!!

The adventure continues...

i got up this morning and went out to adjust the valves. Took the covers off got ready and took a ratchet to spin the engine. it used to spin around all the way but now it has a def hard stop. It seems like the valve is open and the piston is hitting it. Now I only did this very slowly and by hand but it would seem that yesterday when I was putting the tensioners in the cam must have moved some.

Rookie mistake?? I read what to do in the book and I put the zip ties around the chain like it says to but i cant come up with any other feasible explanation. I didnt see the cam sprocket move at all. The end result looks good too. I suppose the correct thing to do at this point is take it back apart, by the special cam tools and redo the timing. If all that is required i guess it mike make sense to replace the chains and sprockets too.

So what do you think? Am I missing something? Seems like the cam had to move some.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1314546388.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1314546422.jpg

Future reference..
Prefer not to put Nylock inside the engine. Regular nuts with wavey washers.
Bruce

Thanks..that is what was on there when I took it apart so that is what I put back. I should have known better with the PO. Thanks for the tip, it looks like ill have a chance to remedy it anyway.

Does it sound like the cam moved based on what ive said so far?

Why? I've been doing i for years.

Its possible the timing slipped, or debris has fallen into on of the cylinders. get the timing tools and check timing before taking anything apart.

So just to be clear so I dont screw anything up. when you say timing tools are you talking about the tools necessary to degree a cam or something else?

You did position no. 1 and 4 cylinders at TDC and with index mark on cams at 12 o'clock before you removed the tensioners, yes? If in other positions, it's easy for the cams to rotate, even slightly.

S

Tools for adjusting/setting the cams. Degreeing the cams is a little different and requires a degree wheel. You need Z-block, dial indicator, 46mm crow foot, and cam turning tool. Actually stomski racing sells a nice combination crow foot/cam turning tool. You can get a nice electronic dial indicator at Harbour freight for a good price. I actually use 2 Z-blocks and DIs so I can do both sides at the same time.

I was looking around a little bit and I think something is def not right. I had the crank pully at Z1 and lined up with the block split when I did the swap. So correctly me if im wrong but TDC should be Z1 at the mark, the rotor pointing to the mark on the dist and the #1 rocker should be loose correct?

The way things stand right now is crank at Z1 rotor not pointing at mark and 1 rock is tight, if i move the crank around to the next mark, almost 90 degrees, the mark is with the split in the case, the rotor points at the mark on the dist and the #1 rocker is loose. When I did the swap I did it with the pulley at Z1. So did I mess this up? I thought I was doing the right thing???

Although it does sound likely that you've lost your cam timing, you can get some further idea what's going on by loosening the rocker/valve adjusters for whatever cylinder's at TDC. If that gives you play in the crank it tells you that there's some hard contact there.

Your spark plugs are out? It's not just that compression is giving you resistance that you're hesitant to push past?

Just a couple ideas before taking the next big step.

Mike

Read below for details, but I suspect I made a rookie mistake and screwed this up.

Thanks James..ill look into that since it appears I might have done something wrong.:mad: