I you have the time and money, then of course. But it can be a slippery slope. Fuel hoses are probably OK, but you may need to replace air box boots.

Time is not an issue. The car is purely for fun so no need to having it running right away. I am slightly concerned about the "Well, while its out, aspect of things" lol :eek:

I can totally see how fixing fuel and oil leaks and getting it started would turn into having the entire car gutted down to the tub and starting from scratch!

Decisions, Decsions. I really would like to have it running first and drive it around for the summer before really having at it. I wonder if I have the will power to drop the engine fix the things I need to and put it back.

What did you find in the gas tank again I forgot? If it was clean then all you need is a good flush but I would think all you need it to pull the airbox and intake runners too get clear access to the top of the motor and R&R the FD change all the gaskets and pull the shroud and clean the top of the motor and you can do that with the motor in the car.

Here is a recap of what I have done so far.

1. new battery
2. New fuel filter
3. Remove gas tank and dump out all old gas
4. inspect gas tank. it was clean, not signs of rust of junk
5. blow out lines from the filter to the front of the car
6. replace gas tank and put 5 gals of fresh gas in.
7. Replace clamps and flex fuel lines at the front of the car.
8. pressurize system and check for leaks

So that is where i am now. The car is leaking from some place in the back that I have yet to identify, The CIS is very loud and whines, and from the advice and testing of the guys it appears that the FD piston is stuck.

so your saying that I can basically reduce it to a long block and remove everything on top of the engine without dropping the engine. does the entire CIS unit come out as one piece if I unbolt the runners?

So, as I understand it, remove the fuel lines to the CIS, remove electrical connections, throttle linkage, remove airbox, unbolt the runners (im assuming a flex socket to do so) and then pick up the entire unit and remove from the car. Put on work bench and remove the FD to soak to several days to unstick piston. R&R any seals, lines, gaskets that look bad and put it all back.

And just for another bit of fun under the category of "WTH was the PO thinking?" I give you the Lets just jam what honestly appears to be plumbers putty and silcone on the car to stop leaks.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308583079.jpg

It can come out as a unit and I have done that the only lesson learned from that is to make sure you put it back together so you can get at the clamps used between the airbox and runners I had to replace one and couldn't get to the hose clamps to remove that piece. When you get that off then you can easily get to the most likely locations for leaks on the back of the motor you can remove the shroud there is a mod done to the cooling fins between the cylinders that if it hasn't been done can be done now and you can clean the case. Do you have a fender mounted oil cooler? The one thing that will kill your motor fast is heat and 2.7's are famous for that. I did the mod to my cooling fins and installed a turbatrol front mounted oil cooler and even with the turbo my oil temp has never gone above 200. I think fuel system is taken care of you now need to R&R the CIS I have most of the CIS parts as I have 2 nearly complete systems there were some pieces used on my EFI conversion and so I am keeping them but everything else is available and at last inspection working. I would suggest that if you have to many things that don't test out I would seriously consider EFI as I had a car that ran well but I started looking at the cost to replace aging CIS components with even used parts mind you the used parts are over 30 years old and still some what expensive so I looked at where I wanted to be and decided that the 30+ CIS and ignition parts had to go and couldn't be happier.

I regards to the picture in 911LVRs above post... What was the unused pad cast onto the intake runner for? Can this pad be cut off and shaped to the rest of the intake for a cleaned up appearance? I'd like to do that to my 78 if there are no drawbacks.
Thor

Yes o-rings are probably shot you will need to fix all that while your injectors are out send them out to get cleaned and tested.

im afraid I dont know what that is for..maybe one of the other guys with more experience can answer.

Good to know. I always like hearing about things to do or not to do. As far as the oil cooler there is not one in the front fender. It looks like there are lines for it but no cooler. I could be wrong but I didnt trace the lines back to the rear of the car to see where they went but they sure seem like fat oil lines. So the adding the oil cooler and the mod you talked of seems like a good idea especially living down here in HOT ATL. I guess I will spend some time in the near future trying to pull off the CIS and then taking off the FD and soaking it. From there, I can get a better idea of what else needs to be done.

do you know of a good place that will clean and test injectors?

Its because the #3 and #4 runner is the same casting and on #3 it has a stud to mount the fan bracket.

EBS
engine builders supply

Thanks!:D

Im glad James knew because that is one of the reasons I got rid of CIS I knew I was going to be doing some work on my injectors soon and that figured into the cost calc.

I think the last time I did injectors new ones were not that much more than rebuilt ones.

so roughly what does it cost for EFI and how hard would it be to install? Also, if I was to go down that road, would I be able to swap it to a 3.0 or 3.2 block if I find out my 2.7 needs a rebuild and I decide to just upgrade?

LOL block.. I just caught myself there.. many years of working on water cooled engines.. I should say case instead.

You seem set on fooling with the 2.7 that hasnt run in years. As long as it turns over its good to fire.
You dont know how much oil is in the engine, I would pull the engine and put it on a table so you can more easily get around it and see all that needs to be seen. Pulling a 77 injection in the car can be a nightmare.
The injectors can be tested with a diesel injector check pump at any diesel shop. You want a nice spray pattern, not dripping under pressure.
Like I said before, soak the fuel distributor in WD40 for a couple days and pressurize it with air to blow the pin out.
Bruce

hey bruce, not really set on it I just figure while its there I might as well tinker with it. I dont have the $$$ to buy a nice new motor right now. So it keeps me busy messing with what I got.

I did see a 3.2 motor in the parts section for 2500.00. I just dont know how hard it is to do the swap and what type of fabrication is involved. Thanks for all your advice and I will do as you suggested and soak the FD as soon as I get it off the car.

Marc