Replace CIS lines? Fix all sources of oil leaks you can access now. Front main, rear main, oil cooler, etc. Test air box for leaks and think about replacing the boots. The injectors have inner and outer seals the outers are much harder todeal with bt you might want to think about it. Test cold start valve and other CIS components.

sorry I was typing fast.. CIS lines = fuel lines going from the FD to the injectors. Boots are a definite all 4 are split and im just hoping the joints are not toast as well. ill def replace all the seals on the injectors based on what ive seen so far. a few questions. The cold start valve how do I test that and how do I test for leaks in the air box?

You just have to test it for continuity to the switch in the left rear chain cover, that way you dont plug the air flow sensor electrics to it, they do get mixed when the injection is off.
Bruce

Thanks Bruce.

I don't think there is any need to mess with the CIS lines unless you have some sort of damage. they generally don't fail. There are 6 air box boots, not 4. To test the cold start vale just put 12v to it and make sure you hear a click. To tst the air box you have to fabricate a way to seal the openings and put a vacuum/pressure to it.

LOL.. when you said boots.. I was thinking CV Joint boots. The CIS lines appear to have damage on the outside coating. like its a line within a line if that makes sense. ill post a pic of what im talking about when I can.

thanks again

Don't worry about the coating. Its the hard plastic line inside that is important.

cool, thanks James. im back from Cali again so I should have some time to make some more progress on the engine. Ill keep everyone posted as usual.

Marc

Hello all, So I got back from my trip and took the FD out of the wd40 bath it was in. I dried it off with air and then hit the center inlet with compressed air as suggested to try to move the piston. Nothing happened :( How far should that move, right now its flush with the bottom of the FD. looking at how it goes together I would say it need to move more. How complicated its it to take a FD apart? I really dont want to have to buy a new one. If I do I might just say the heck with it all and go EFI. what do you think? pics below
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1309528541.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1309528593.jpg

Basically the piston should come all the way out. Do not take the FD apart. You can take the big nut off the bottom and that may allow the piston to come loose. That big nut is sort of like a tension adjustment for the piston.

Thanks James. Ill give that a try.. as always I appreciate the advice.

ok.. I took the nut off the bottom and still no luck. im putting 110 lbs of pressure to it and it still wont budge. Any other suggestions?

also, I went to separate the trans for the motor. I took off the starter and then the other 3 bolts and it is not coming out. it moved a little but I dont want to pry against the engine mating surface. any reason it just wouldn't come out easy like other trans?

Be careful you don't want to shot that piston across the room try pushing on it to loosen it up it should slide out on its own weight when things are right as for the tranny you have to take the clutch fork apart on the bottom of the tranny to get the fork to let the tranny move.

Woo hoo.. success!! thanks guys! I took a dowel and then just lightly tapped it a few times to break it loose, then hit it with the air and it came out!! So I worked it back and forth some and it seems to occasionally stick. Im going to work it some more until its completely smooth. Last question on the FD. I have not let the piston come all the way out, should I?

Thanks again guys!!http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1309548096.jpg

Congtrats! Now the trick is to get the nut back back on correctly. Basically tighten the nut to to the point where the piston just barely sticks, then loosen it so the piston just barely doesn't stick.

Yes take it out and thoughly clean the bore (no abrasives) and the piston and keep doing that until it moves freely in and out under its own weight then put the nut back in and do it again it has to be right or your CIS wont work right.

just out of curiosity, does the control the fuel rate or something? right now, I have it so that if you turn it flat the piston will stick for a second and then break free and slide out smoothly.

So, on to the next challenge. Im going to remove the transmission from the engine, put the engine on the stand as soon as my yoke comes in and clean the engine up real good. Then, im going to take off the oil cooler and fix what was leaking, and fix all the other standard oil leaking items.

Then check the head bolts and make sure none are broken or pulling up. if that checks out, I can start to put it back. I need to rebuild the cv joints and maybe tap or heli coil the trans mounts and after all that, it should be good to put in and try it out!! Fingers crossed ill get to drive this thing this summer!!

Ok. I took it out, made sure the piston was perfectly clean and check the bore as well. it looked good. so I have the nut on there and I just figured it would be easier to take a vid of it and you guys can see the speed of it and advise.

Thanks

here is the vid.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v257/ricerocket1967/?action=view&current=IMG_0663.mp4

That looks good you can really check by holding it in and turn it flat like it is installed and with your finger work it up and down to see if there is any sticking if there is none then all is good.

cool. I did that and its smooth so I would say that problem is resolved. im glad I didnt have to buy a new one!

onto the next project....