Day 233 || Will Wurth SKS Stone Gaurd Come Off of Skin?
25Feb2012
Had to work late so I got to working on the car really late. But Viola'...Floorpans and underbody have been Schutz'd! ....oder Ich haba die Porsche geschiessen? My German is rust and I am about to fall over. Here are some pix.

btw- I picked a SEM 'schutz' gun of for $13 to see if it would work. The threads did not fit so I taped the gun to the bottle and it worked great! (dang, forgot to take pictures!

Be sure to tape up ANYTHING you don't want Stone Gaurd on!
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-B...-49-26_417.jpg

Note to self- Set air pressure on gun to 70psi (it works perfect!)
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-u...-49-36_419.jpg

This stuff is actually fun to spray on! (and no nasty fumes!)
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https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-N...-12-38_487.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-n...-12-54_283.jpg

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https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0...-35-46_994.jpg

why are you putting Stone Guard on the interior?

It's tough, durable, kills resonance and is invisible under carpet...why not?

Partially to cover up the stone gaurd/schutz I ground off, partially to protect the paint from scratches once the sound deadinging gets put in...which leads to rust zones...but mostly to dampen road noise in conjunction with the sound mat. I guess I could have run it bare but the car is not going to be an out and out replica of an R/ST etc....well at least that is not the plan right now :D The car had Schutz in the first place so it will be similar to the factory coating as well?

Did you have an opinion about adding the schutz back?

I do. I would not put the schutz on the interior -- it is designed for use on the exterior. I might put POR there.

On my car (which makes no pretense at being a copy; just an evolution of what they might do today to mod an early car), I remove most of the sound deadening (leaving or adding enuff to cover about 25% of the center of each bare metal panel - rap with your knuckles as you go...), and under that added sound deadener, I use a Rustoleum type primer and black paint. Over that is the carpeting. I probably will not use the RS felt and instead go for sliverknit; or only use the RS type in the back with sliverknit up front.

I may also put a layer of foam and vinly (CLD MLV it is often called) just under the carpet - it adds some wt. but can really inhibit noise intrusion.

The schutz might outgas something you do NOT want in your lungs.

The schutz will absorb some noise but will not do as well as even bare carpet.

Since it is already there, I would just leave it. Actually, I'd go read the MSDS sheet and think hard if I found something nasty listed.

I'd also make sure I drove with the windows down and lots of ventilation for a year or two after putting the schutz in. Be careful with kids or women of reproductive age in there also, pending your MSDS research. To some degree that applies to men also. I dunno your age, but if you are 85 years old, then don't worry about it...

Sound deadener probably will do better if it is direct contact with metal, not on top of flexy body schutz...

Day 253 || Assembly
16Mar2012
I have been simply installing parts, cleaning, or repainting parts as necessary. I have switched gears into make it work mode to save time. Here is where I am at.

Heater fan+ductwork installed and all the control cables lubed/adjusted
Battery mounted
A-arm swaybar mounts re-positioned for lowering
Pedal assembly installed
Brakes + new lines installed & bled
Stock fuse boxes and cable routing installed
Radio Delete
'on-loan' Rennshifter installed
Front 22mm T-bars installed

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3...-16-37_844.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-W...-16-50_289.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-X...-31-41_220.jpg

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https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-k...-23-01_205.jpg

I am exhausted but I feel like I am getting close to being able to drive around the block :D As soon as the electrical is 100% and the late model fuel tank goes in I am switching to motor install!

I'm glad you chose to do the A-arm mod. Well worth it.

Don't break my shifter.

Great Job Bryan !!

Did you weld those drain holes, or just put spray over them?

Thank you.
-Y.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-n...-12-54_283.jpg

All seams and cracks were seam sealed over paint or epoxy primer. If you are referring to the large 'circle' in the picture, I believe those are not drain holes and were sealed from the factory. I believe they are there from the manufacturing process. I am still trying to figure out how exactly they were used.

kenikh, Bryan... more on that A-arm mod.

Bryan, looking good man, the long hours spent are beginning to pay-off as she is shaping up well!

Great progress Bryan! Can't wait to see the car.

Thor

Bryan,

- I was researching, so far...

Those were the drain holes initially done by Porsche, with "moon" hole inside the circular shape indent, where thought was that water getting into the car through poor seal design, than goes out... and lowest point under the pedals, and holes were moon shape there too... I just got it welded last weekend, "moon" part of it fell off...

Porsche decided to close them later and they did use some sort of silicon on my car with "moon" holes still punched...

So, further they changes the stamp to not to punch "moon" rust attraction holes, but still circular shape, that what you have on your car...

I will post pics if interested....

My 2 c

-Y.

Hi Combatic !
Where did you get the battery holder?

Thanks.

All Batteries, Power Sources, Battery Products | SEPBatteries.com, it is aluminum and fits the PC680 perfectly. Do not get the PC680MJ battery (MJ= Metal Jacket) I did and it doesn't fit in the bracket so I had to remove the metal sleeve.

The A-arm swaybar mount modification was made to provide full range of motion without binding when lowering the car. I picked up this tidbit from Bernie Buschen, one of our local Northwest Porsche Guru's. You move the bracket inboard one bracket width and rotate it 90 degrees. How I understand it, the stock mount is fine for US spec ride height but binds in compression.

...Now I have to get a swaybar! ;)

Interesting. My car has the stock brackets but the tie rod is vertical in front view but angled side view. So I guess mine should be in the same spot but turned 90 degrees.

It would probably be pretty easy to jacke up the wheel and watch the linkage through its swing....what swaybars are you running?

Weltmeister 22s

Bryan, 22mm Weltmeister's is what my S has, too.