I am currently making a 69 hotrod,

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/666770-davids-1969-project-porsche.html

Im starting with interior, moving to the front trunk/rear engine, then body. Do you have any tips that stuck out on your build that I should know of? Also your paint looks great on the trunk, do you mind telling me what kind of primer/paint you used.

thanks a lot,
David

Hey David, congrats on the car. I am still trying to figure out what flares are on that thing. I agree with emptygo, that it would look cooler as a 69 racecar/hotrod but I am biased as a early car enthusiast.

Tips
1. Ziplock bags and a sharpie for labelling all of your hardware...very handy when you go to put the car back together. Sometimes I draw pictures of what goes where on the relevant ziplock.

2. Push hardware into a cardboard card to label and maintain position for re-assembly

3. Create a timetable/project plane & budget!!! Then phase it in chunks. I have seen too many projects start with the best of intention and then languish off the road for years...even decades. I bought the car to drive and enjoy...and I wanted to avoid my tendencies to be over detail oriented and obsessive. It also helps that I don't have a lot of $$$ so that makes a lot of decisions for me.

The rest of the advice you can ask as you get to it here on Pelican and there is a lot of build threads you can search for help. I am MUCH wiser now than I was 9 months ago for sure!!


There are a lot of ways to paint/prime. This is what worked for me
Primer- DPLF PPG Primer (catalyzed direct to metal primer)

Paint- I chose SEM Trim Black paint for the trunk and most of my parts. It is NOT impervious to some solvents and is not as durable as a catalyzed paint BUT I can easily spray touch up at anytime (comes in quarts/spray cans etc). If you are going to spray the whole underside/trunk etc at one time I would suggest going to a catalyzed paint for long term durability.

Undercoating- Wurth SKS (this is the ONLY undercoating to use!!) It is not noxious, sprays perfectly to match blend with factory undercoaging (you need a undercoating gun ask me about the cheap way to spray later). I tried Wurths High Build Rubberized Underseal in a can...it does not build or blend like the SKS and the fumes are NASTY.

POR-15 in select areas (interior floorpan and hood gutter)

Hope that helps.

I'm already do the ziplock/note card plan just like you had said, and i think that i have a pretty good plan (trying to have interior complete and under the hood prep work and paint done by may). the cardboard card is a great idea, I wish i had been doing that from the start. I will def. be using your paint suggestions, so thanks again!

Day 266 || The last bits get painted before assembly
29Mar2012

Tires are in! 195/60/15 RE960A Pole Positions. I chose these for a 'close to stock' profile and tread look, grip performance, and I could not beat the price (I have a cousin who manages a Tires + in CO. :D)
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-F...-15-07_154.jpg

The last of the major pieces get a makeover!
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-f...-22-19_945.jpg

...wear all the magic happens. I need a blasting cabinet...this messy operation in the garage is getting old.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-a...-00-21_543.jpg

All the engine tin will no doubt see some oil and other corrosive agents in the engine bay so everything has been primed in PPG DPLF primer to resist corrosion and breakdown.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-W...0-19-11_30.jpg

Tonight I shot PPG DCC9300 gloss on to cover all the parts shot with DPLF. The DP primers must be covered b/c they are not UV resistant and will fade.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-l...-17-20_954.jpg

I don't think the neighbors can even hear my compressor running @ midnight :rolleyes:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-T...-17-33_788.jpg

Been able to get the motor running or tranny tested yet?

No....I had to get the tin and tranny support painted so I can assemble. Brandon and I are working on the car tomorrow night. You are welcome to come over and drink beer and turn wrenches :D

I am about 2 days behind schedule in prep so I don't know how far we will get. Most of it is just bolting back on parts on the motor (tin, shroud, fan, exhaust, carbs).

I'll let you know if I can make it.

Bryan,
I can drop by tomorrow (Saturday) morning sometime and do a leak down on that lump (could that sound any worse?) Let me know if you want me to do this.

al

Hey Al! Yeah I could use a little help. I don't have a boroscope either...dunno if you have one of those toys. I just want to diagnose if everything is within safe operating range and then get that sucker put back in the car!

Let me know when you can come down

Bryan,
I can make it down around 9:00am or so, if that works for you. No boroscope, but i can bring down the leak down tester and we'll check that out. That test gives a good indication of the health of the valves and rings, etc. Anything else you need me to bring down.........special tools...??? I'll toss some stuff in the car, but think about it and you can email me at alkosmal@hotmail.com

PM or email me your address......................I have your cell #

regards,
al

Hey Al, PM sent

PM....not received.

al

These holes were alignment holes for the body to fit into a jig at the factory during assemby. Once the car was ready for schutz they bent the tabs over to cover the spot where the jig fit into the hole and sealed everything up.

Learning something every day ... :D , but I did not see tabs on Bryan car...

They are bent down at the factory and fit so well you can almost not see them. On replacement floor pans, which Bryan might have had installed on his car at somepoint, there are no tabs.

Day 278 || The Motor
10Apr2012

Saturday my friend Al came down with his leak down tester to check on the health of the motor. In hindsight I should have done that when I first because a couple of the cylinders have valves that are not seating great. I am going to just install the motor and see where it actually ends up after I cycle the motor and get it bedded in with new oil...but I am not holding my breath :(

The progress-

I learned how to repack/reboot CV's! I only installed and greased one CV before installing the boot..I think I called myself an idiot more than once.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-c...-32-26_104.jpg


Looks like someone before me installed the tensioner fail-safe blocks
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L...-26-56_686.jpg


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b...-28-18_766.jpg


My first transaxle install was a PITA! The motor kept scooting away from me and there was no one to call after midnight...ha ha
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-X...-14-25_568.jpg


This is tricky by yourself! I would do a whole host of things differently next time.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-a...-24-36_593.jpg


Happy Easter! The car and shroud are the right colors right?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1...-01-10_100.jpg


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-E...-01-49_355.jpg


Hose fit issues! Motor install was stopped dead in its tracks last night. My 2.7 oil cooler return line (red line in photo) has a union issue. The 2.7 cooler has a slip fit and the other end is a 30mm screw on type and I don't know how to join the two. Spent all my time searching for a solution and now I need help from the gurus. Any ideas?
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-E...%2520issue.JPG


2.7 motor to 2.7 oil tank hoses. The bottom hose with the slip fits needs the left end to screw onto the 30mm threaded fitting.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-K...-02-01_749.jpg

Oil cooler fittings, adaptors, and unions Elephant Racing

Oil Fitting Adapters
911 cars through '71 and all 914/6 cars have 26mm fittings on the oil tank. This presents a problem when retrofitting a '72 and later 911 motor that use 30mm oil hoses.

These 26mm-to-30mm adapters solve this. They have female 26mm threads that connect directly to the 26mm male fitting on your pre-72 911 or 914/6 oil tank. The other side is male 30mm threads and connects directly to 30mm female threaded hose ends.

Mark, That oil line adapter only gets Bryan connected on the return side.

Bryan. As you have found the 73 and later oil tanks are a bit different compared to the 71 and earlier. the easiest solution is to bolt the early through-71 oil cooler onto the engine. Then you can use the threaded oil return (26mm) and supply (30mm) hoses. I have one on the shelf if you need it. I do not have extra hoses though.

The later oil tanks do not bolt into the pre-71 chassis without cutting sheet metal. Not the best option.

I have a 69 oil cooler sitting on the old lump in the garage... :( Man...this live and learn stuff! So before I go crazy here. A '69 cooler will bolt up to a 2.7 motor? I am going to have to undo everything and drop the motor again to get at it.

OR-

I was just told that I can do a hose adapter at a hydraulic shop for cheap...but I have to source that and make sure they have it....which may not work for timing.

Yes, I was staring at those last night but it does not solve the slip fit issue as Jamie noted. Of course you can tig something etc etc...but that is not in the cards time or $$ wise and I am not good enough to do it myself and be certain of the seal.