What happened, if I may ask?

I shot my car with single stage and it came out fine:confused:

Single stage is great, just less forgiving. A faulty paint gun caused the entire topcoat to go to $#!7 due to dryspray and orange peel. With 2 stage, you can hide SO MUCH with the clear, even my issues wouldn't have been a problem to make perfect.

Try to stay away from Upol primer. Shrinks like crazy. Got a line on a product that comes out of the Glassruit BASF Factory that is 1/4 the price of PPG. If your going solid color (Non-Mettalic) use single stage. People don't realize that the material bill, and paint time is half. Single stage actually has more gloss than clear. All the high end big dollar resto's use single stage. I got an extra Wurth SKS gun, and you can get a quart for around 30.00. Evercoat brushable seam sealer is what I use the most. You will be fine spraying your car in your place. If you got BEER?......I got a new 3M/Accuspray that needs some spray time. Your useing the right product in PPG DP sealers! I have used them for over 25+ years and never had to redue anything I topcoated over. It suck they took the lead out of it so UV rays fade it now. Black DP90 was great on street rod frames, roll cges, etc. Send me a PM with your email....I'll send you a couple pics of the car. Getting closer, just got to paint trunk area, and SKS a front fender before I re-install, then hang some oil lines, and engine/trans. Spring for sure! More than Happy to help you spray parts/car/whatever. Let me know when your ready for some supplies, and I can grab them.

KT911rs sent you a PM. I am a rookie all the way when spraying any kind of auto paint on large surfaces meant to make people drool. I will definitely ping you for some sage advice when the time comes. Kenik was just trying to goad me into painting the car before the spring.....I think I need to make the car run next...ha ha....

Whats your opinion on finishing suspension parts? Strip and shoot with DP90? I was going to prime and shoot with SEM Trim Black. I have an aversion to powdercoating plus I have more sweat than $$$'s.

I stuck out the single stage process and am happier for it. Like Kenik I screwed stuff up and ended up doing it twice, but I feel the end result suits the older cars...

Brian you're doing superb work mate, can't wait to see it done.

Hi Bryan, The car is looking fantastic!!! just spent the last hour going through the thread! Can't wait to see the finished project.

been following your thread, great work ,single stage solids are far easier to diy than clear over base.Choose a good quality high solids paint to make life easier for yourself

....sounds like an Apple vs PC debate! Before too long, this thread will be forced into PARF :)

Bryan, you are going to get a different opinion from everyone you talk to and it all boileds down to what you feel comfortable with. Since you are learning, you can start out with either one. Kelly would be an awesome mentor so just go with his advice and learn as much as you can from him. I think he lays some of the best paint in the area!

You are doing a great job! Don't cut corners to get the car done by spring or you will regret it later. Check for other rust areas now and address them so you're not cutting through new paint to replace a longitudinal. If you do, you'll wish you used base clear ;) (there...I snuck in my opinion)

Keep it up!

Chris

Brian,
I like powdercoated suspension parts. Problem is you will need to blast them first. There is a guy in Redmond that does them for around 15.00ea. When you figure paint cost&time....Kinda a wash. Another option is use POR15 in matt Black over a hand sanded part. It seams to be as tough as powdercoat and has a sprayed on look even if brushed. DP90 with a SEM topcoat is great also. Do you need any finishing tools like a DA sander? A 3M friend is blowing out a bunch of tools, sandpaper,tape, etc. If your wise enough to know what this stuff cost.....You may want to think about getting enough supplies to do your car?
BTW.....Your PM didn't go through for some reason.

Looking great so far Combatic! It's bring back memories already. Keep on truckin' cause your making great time on this resto and doing it right.

sub'd - this is a great thread mate - you're doing a fantastic job :-)

Day 182 || Things are looking Black!
5Jan2012
Happy 2012 Everyone! The holidays decimated any free time to work on the car. I finally slipped back into the shop the last couple of days and I was able to do some final seam seal and paint the trunk black!!! Next up, some undercoating and I think I can start getting the suspension back on so I can turn my attention to the motor!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1325758136.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1325758191.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1325758222.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1325758268.jpg

Nice!

I've been shooting satin black over my suspension components all week... Your car is looking great!

Very nice work

Looking good! What did you use for the satin black?

Bryan,
Looking good. I typically have the suspension bits powder coated. great finish and durability.

regards,
al

What about zinc coated suspension? What is you opinion?

-Y.

I have used yellow zinc for the spring plates and nut/bolts and misc hardware etc. Looks and works great with nice contrast to black powder-coated parts.

regards,
al

Thanks guys for the nice comments!

I am using SEM Trim Black which is a somewhere between satin and matte and replicates pretty closely the same finish on Fuchs and other original parts on the car. I chose SEM Trim Black b/c it comes in spray cans, and quarts/gallons to shoot in your paint gun, it is laquer based so it is easy to work with AND you can get it at O'Reilly auto and your local body paint supply store. So far it looks great! I will take a pic of the supplies when I get home. forgot to last night at 1:30am :rolleyes: I was kind of tired.

Al, can you PM me your zinc coater (he is down in Auburn?) I am debating getting some hardware zinc'd before I re-assemble. The car is going to come apart again eventually when I do the body paint I might wait till then...but it will be handy to have that info...

Just a tip. The surfaces between your spring plate and your trailing arm should not have any paint or powder coat. If they are coated, they can allow your alignment to slip.