factory short shift locking in 5th

[DRACO A5OG]

oops my bad. Nevermind

[ivangene]

since this is not installed in the car...when you say it's sticking is it just you movining it while everything is being held with your hands..the spring tension may be all you are fighting and if it was mounted securely that might go away..I have found these things hard to hold and move thru the gears all at once while not in the car...

any other "sticking" (like Reverse)

[kerthunk]

Originally Posted by doppel

Originally Posted by schumicat

I just went and look at my car. I think the problem is your pawl seems to not be rotating all the way. As you pull the shifter down from 5th gear, the pawl should rotate counterclockwise to allow your shifter to clear the tab at the top. Yours (first photo a few post above this) seems to stop rotating with the shifter not even in the middle of its up/down range of movement.

If you look at his pawl, it is rotated all the way. The pawl will only rotate until it hits the tab on the top plate. When it hits this point, the tab on lever needs to be clear of the other tab.

I would measure the width of tab on your original lever and see if it is different from this lever.

[doppel]

The tab is definitely wider than the aftermarket lever I had on there! The tab measures 20.5mm on my FSS lever. Is someone willing to measure the tab on their FSS lever?
Thanks,
Scott

[schumicat]

21mm. I would try moving the whole fork/shifter part back a little. It should be riding on a couple of pins.

Originally Posted by doppel

The tab is definitely wider than the aftermarket lever I had on there! The tab measures 20.5mm on my FSS lever. Is someone willing to measure the tab on their FSS lever?
Thanks,
Scott

[kerthunk]

My stock (non short shift) tab measures 16.25mm.

[nick_911]

Hi ,
I would be interested to see what the outcome is as I also have the same issue. When in 5th I have a 50/50 chance of it sticking. Again fssk that was already fit by previous owner.
Thanks
Nick

[john walker's workshop]

if you had ground the tab sufficiently to clear, you would be driving by now. don't over-analyze it.

[Jesset100]

imo
Try mounting the assembly in the car so you can have leverage to push the shifter into 5th gear. Holding the assembly while fighting the spring on the bench is tough.

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by kerthunk

If you look at his pawl, it is rotated all the way. The pawl will only rotate until it hits the tab on the top plate. When it hits this point, the tab on lever needs to be clear of the other tab.

I would measure the width of tab on your original lever and see if it is different from this lever.

The wider width of the "arm" on the factory short shift lever is of no consequence as it goes around the 5th and reverse carrier tabs. The lever, not the arm, contacts the reverse lock pawl. If the arm must be narrowed, there's something amiss. The WM shift lever uses a thinner-than-normal arm - again, of no consequence.

From fifth gear, the reverse lock pawl rotates CC until it stops against the carrier plate rev. tab. This prevents the money shift into reverse from fifth. However, once in neutral, the lever is now able to bump the lock pawl out of the way if selecting reverse.

If the lever is locked in fifth due to the rev. lock pawl, that means you've run out of range to shift into neutral (no where to go. i.e. the initial adjustment was on the ragged edge). Loosen the shift coupler, then adjust the fore-aft location of the shift lever. It should be vertical in the neutral position and midway in all directions within the shift housing opening. Sometimes, one can install the fork (houses the lever) such that the spacers on one end and the threaded adj. pin offsets the box in the shift housing and thus affects gear selection.

Note: Place reference marks on the shift tube and shift coupler before you begin in case you wish to return to the starting point, if needed.

Sherwood

[uwanna]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

if you had ground the tab sufficiently to clear, you would be driving by now. Don't over-analyze it.

Amen!!!

[plumb4u2]

Originally Posted by nick_911

Hi ,
I would be interested to see what the outcome is as I also have the same issue. When in 5th I have a 50/50 chance of it sticking. Again fssk that was already fit by previous owner.
Thanks
Nick

your coupler is not adjusted properly

[doppel]

remember guys the shift housing is not installed. The lever is locked in 5th position and the only solution I see from the current situation is to grind down the shift lever tab so that it clears the tab on the pawl lock plate. The engineer in me wants to find the root cause of this problem so it can be fixed rather than "grind to fit". In my opinion, root cause can only be one of 3 things:

1) Misassambled - which I think we have ruled out.
2) Wrong parts - which I am still unsure of but unlikely as the entire FSS kit was installed and the housing matches the vehicle.
3) Parts manufactured out of spec - which is what I now suspect and would probably be of interest to the guys at Pelican.

Thanks for all the help,
Scott

[ivangene]

4: remove the pivot pin and lift the shift lever clear...try this again from stage 1

[Wayne 962]

Looks like the tab may be manufactured incorrectly. I'll have my supplier take a look at this thread tomorrow. I think there was a time in the past when the tab was welded on the wrong side of the shifter on some of these, so it wouldn't surprise me if there was a problem with the actual piece.

-Wayne

[DRACO A5OG]

Outstanding Service Wayne! See you up in Monterey Soon

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by doppel

remember guys the shift housing is not installed. The lever is locked in 5th position and the only solution I see from the current situation is to grind down the shift lever tab so that it clears the tab on the pawl lock plate. The engineer in me wants to find the root cause of this problem so it can be fixed rather than "grind to fit". In my opinion, root cause can only be one of 3 things:

1) Misassambled - which I think we have ruled out.
2) Wrong parts - which I am still unsure of but unlikely as the entire FSS kit was installed and the housing matches the vehicle.
3) Parts manufactured out of spec - which is what I now suspect and would probably be of interest to the guys at Pelican.

Thanks for all the help,
Scott

Scott,
Where's it interfering?


If the lever is already hitting the rubber buffer plate on the right side (other side of carrier plate tabs viewed from the above camera angle) and the lever arm still doesn't clear the 5th/Rev. tabs on the carrier plate, then yes, the arm was probably assembled incorrectly during manufacture. Have I got that straight? Maybe not.

The arm can be bent slightly as long as the contact faces maintain alignment. If not possible, return the offending part to the supplier for a replacement.

Good you're exploring the root cause of the mismatch rather than performing an unnecessary "hack" to compensate.

Sherwood

[theiceman]

i hate to point out the obvious but ..... you got it into 5th didn't you ? easy in easy out ... unless you really jammed it the same interference that stops it coming out would have stopped it going in .
Hard to tell from he pics but if the whole shift lever is pitched forward this would happen . If it were " tilted" back would you clear the tab with the shift lever resting against lockout ? just musing. Too bad i didnt see this yesterday as I had my whole short shift out on the bench and could have helped more.

I think it has something to do with the bending of the cage .. I bet you if he undoes the allen screw at the front a couple of turns and allows box to move forward a little it will clear. BTW anyone know if this is a friction fit or if there is suppose to be play on that allen screw that would allow that cage to float ?

?

[john walker's workshop]

it's a whole different operation for the spring loaded detent lever when it enters 5th, opposed to getting it out of 5th. if you had one in front of you, you would understand.
why is it a hack job sherwood? you carefully grind the tab down to the proper size, like on the old shifter, and it works. you don't have to bend the handle. voila! done!

[doppel]

John Walker, I don't think that's what sherwood really meant. Your solution seems to be the proper way to fix the current geometry.

I think Sherwood was responding to fixing it and going on your way without understanding what is wrong with the set up. Understanding what is wrong here, may save Wayne's suppliers from sending out more faulty parts and save everyone a lot of headache.

Wayne, thanks for getting on top of this so quickly.

Scott