Hey guys

Does this mean I need that special tool to remove my hub nut?

Looks like there is a pin in there, too. Seems tricky to remove that because it's sunken in the hollow.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1366465934.jpg

Nope......remove wheel, remove cotter pin. Replace wheel, lower car to the ground.

36mm socket, 3/4 inch drive extension. Breaker bar and cheater pipe, set the bar with cheater at 9 o'clock. Make sure wheel is chocked and trans is in gear.

Have someone hold the knuckle steady and then jump on the cheater.

Should hear a loud snap as the nut breaks loose. :rolleyes:

I tend to support my weight on the fender when jumping up....OR if you have acess to an air gun, and 125 psi compressor.....;)

BTW, if the repair works....great. But the CV rebuild job is a dirty nasty one.

If the CV looks like the face of the moon when cleaned up for inspection. Consider PMB Performance. Eric can get you prebuilt CVs and axles for a VERY good price. Swap them in, no fuss no muss.

He's at Hershey this weekend but he has staff on call. He's in Utah.

Thanks Joe Bob

I'm confused from the technical article on this website:

"The first step is to jack up and raise the car off of the ground (see Project 1 for details). You don’t need to remove the road wheels, although it is recommended that you do so in order to gain yourself some more working room. The next step is to start removing the bolts from the CV joints. Start by making sure that you have the correct tool. On some early 911s, the bolts need a six-point star pattern removal tool to loosen them up. On some others, the bolts used only a standard Allen hex pattern. Either way, you must have the correct tool for the removal task, or you might strip out the CV bolts."

Are they referring to the panhead screws?

I have spacers on my wheels. Do I need to remove them? That cotter pin is pretty deep in there, I don't know if you can tell from the picture I posted. What's the technique for removing it?

thanks

I bought new joints and boots, the grease, clips, etc....I should be ok?
I'll hang on the the ones I'm taking off in case they're serviceable for future use.

The inner CV is connected to the transmission flange. The bolts can be allen headed or triple square or in rare cases hex headed that use a normal socket. Depends on whoese been in there and what has been replaced. Never underestimate the the previous owner. I like to break loose the outer axle nut first. It can be a pain to break loose if it has been on for a while.

The weight of the engine, trans, the wheel on the ground, the axle connected to the in gear trans helps in breaking it loose. Nothing more frustrationg/worse than the axle turning when you are trying to bust it loose.

Yes, you most likely will need to remove the wheel AND the spacer to get to the cotter pin. Pre soak with PB blaster. WD-40 is NOT something I recommend.

As to new CVs....good some people try to regrease the old ones and put them back into service. The removal and replacement of the CV joints can be tricky. Do you have the correct tools and a diagram?

Search CV reconstruction, 17 pages of info. If you still have questions reread, its all there.

I just got back from the hardware store and had some lunch. I soaked the cotter pin and the inner joint screws, too, with PB blaster.

I have plenty of standard tools and I think I have what I need for this.
breaker bar
cheater pipe
circlip pliers
36mm socket (1/2" drive, hope that's ok)
torque wrench
allen head (hex pattern) attachment for ratchet
ratchet extenders

I do not have any diagrams, just this website.

thanks

I'll check it out.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/222537-reconstructing-constant-velocity-cv-joints.html

thanks

I tried searching threads and titles and didn't find it. I'm reading your link now. Good stuff.

1/2 drive may snap depending on how tight the castle nut is and the manufacturer. Cheap China crap....is cheap China crap.

the 36mm socket I just bought looks pretty well made. The breaker bar is from ACE, but says made in taiwan.

from the other thread I've been reading it seems like I needed a 32mm socket. I put the 36mm in there and it spun around even with the cotter pin still on

Was working off memory.....the snap point is the extension connection, the breaker knuckle. I may have been wrong on the socket size.....my bad.

no worries, I appreciate the advice.

I just called 2 different hardware stores here and no answer....do they all shut down after lunch here on Saturdays? wtf

Does anyone here live near me and have a 32mm socket I can borrow? If it's 3/4", do you also have the associated breaker bar?

I will reward you with beer.

Use it.....if it breaks, it breaks.....just be careful.....keep your cell phone handy unless you have a companion. Which you really should.......

I work with my garage door up so that if I get crushed someone will (maybe) help me.

not a lot of pelicans where I am. There are a few people that would probably help me out, but I'm glad I'm at this point where I'm figuring out what tools I need before I have any company.

I've noticed a lot of my projects take forever to get done because I don't have the right socket. I got a socket set for xmas a few years ago but none of them ever get used. They need to make a real man's socket set, with sizes I might actually use. None of this small crap.

Tool collecting can eclipse Porsche hobby quickly. Depending on how committed you are it may be better to just pay someone to install for you.