Coupe window channel replacement?

Kool-aid-82 · Kool-aid-82's Garage

Anyone have any advice on replacing the window channel felt in the doors of an 82 911 SC?
Do I need to pull the window frames?
Or is there a way to do this with them still in the car?

charwood77 · 07-31-2013, 08:46 AM

Bump- looking for the same advice

Sunroof · 07-31-2013, 08:54 AM

I have the same issue on my 1973.5T. I was told that I can do the replacement without removing the frame for the glass window. The felt can be R&R'd by doing the top portion first with the window down followed by the second section with the window up. The door panel of course has to be removed but I do not have a motor like in your SC so accessing the felt is easier. This method makes sense but I see cleaning out the channel(s) and ensuring a uniform fit between uppper and lower sections critical.

Anyone?

Bob
73.5T

pete3799 · pete3799's Garage

Don't think it can be done without taking the window frame out.
I couldn't do it with the window and frame in place.

Sunroof · 07-31-2013, 09:10 AM

I might find it easier on my 73T considering I have roll up windows and no mirror wiring. You will have to take the panel off and remove the window frame to access. They do make a tool that fits in the channel to insert and smooth out the felt or you can easily fabricate one. I would use a wood dowel and shape and blunt the end to fit. I believe 3M weatherstripping adhesive is what is used for the new felt. The channel felt is not expensive.

Maybe someone who already took on this task can chime in...............

Bob

timmy2 · timmy2's Garage

I have the opening vent windows I bought, to replace the fixed ones on my car, on the bench and I can tell you removing the old channel is tough. I wouldn't want to try it with it in the car and especially with the glass in there.
It is one continuous piece top to bottom and would be virtually impossible to change like that, especially gluing it in place.
Also if you need to replace the rear one inside the door, pull it.

john walker's workshop · 07-31-2013, 09:35 AM

pull the channel out. spray silicone spray, the wet kind, down the door frame and also spray the lower 18 inches of the new channel. stuff the felt channel down as far as possible. raise the glass 2 inches, insert a slot screwdriver on an angle against the felt and resting on the edge of the glass. lower the glass and firmly follow with the screwdriver, which will push the felt down with the glass. repeat as needed. just spray one side at a time. early cars used heavy glue on the channel so the frame needs to come out on those.

timmy2 · timmy2's Garage

When did they stop using the glue?

Peter Zimmermann · 12:48 PM

When I did my '82, there was no glue on the vertical legs, and the horizontal section was glued. I took the frame out to change it, but John's method also works. I also removed my glass to make wiper seal replacement easier, which also allowed me to properly clean all parts. And, yes, I only re-glued the horizontal, top, section.

EDIT: Pictures next post...

Peter Zimmermann · 07-31-2013, 12:46 PM

stevie 77 930 · stevie 77 930's Garage

As time goes, the power windows have the tendency to get sticky. I have changed my felts without removing the frames as others have described. I took the opportunity to change the squeegee as well so you need the carefully pry the trim without breaking the clips. As far as the felt goes, i used a soapy water solution to lube the channel and a long flat screw driver to push the felt down the channel A relatively easy job as long as there is no glue. Sticky windows are no longer the case with the new felt. Good luck

wrxnofx · wrxnofx's Garage

I just did this job on my driver's door this weekend and I ended up having to pull the frame out after more than an hour of trying to get the front part in.

For no good reason, I started at the back of the door and managed to get the seal all the way down using warm soapy water. On to the front, and no matter how many times I tried, I couldn't get the seal to go down further than a few inches below the top of the door.

When I pulled the frame I finally noticed why. The seal was hanging up on the lip of the hole where the screws hold in the front triangular window bracket. Perhaps if I'd started on the front there would have been more "play" for the window to move to get past this.

In the grand scheme, however, it really isn't that difficult to remove the frame.

mghorayeb · 10-18-2014, 01:16 PM

Ditto wrxnofx - My window has been a pain in the a__ since I bought the car a year ago. The passenger motor was shot and shorting the circuit, blowing the fuse (disabling both windows and the sunroof - not good in FL). Replaced the motor a year ago and everything looked alright (note that I found the spring anchoring slotted piece laying in the door but put it aside, thinking it was inconsequential). Mistake! Motor burned after another year. Bought a second used motor, installed it, repaired the broken spring holder with a coupling nut, a stainless bolt (both had to be ground down for clearance), and expected everything to be perfect. Mistake! Decided to replace the felt channel after everything was cleaned and lubed. Wasn't able to install with frame in door, because of the interference of the holes (on the front of the frame, like wrxnofx). Decided to remove frame - not that difficult. 2 bolts upper rear (under plastic caps), 1 bolt lower rear (under plastic cap), 2 bolts top front (under 2 plastic caps), and the last one inside the door. Note that the one inside the door and the rear lower one can be loosened to adjust the verticality (is that a word?) of the frame. Installed new channel (glued the top only, though I wouldn't be surprised that this was unnecessary (some evidence of glue on top and sides - cleaned it all up). Window still slow, pulling my hair out

. Silicon lubed the s__t out of the channel and it's better, but not the way it should be (I wonder if I've killed the second motor

). Had to play with the 2 regulator adjustments (one to set the top stop, and the other to raise and lower the rear of the regulator which affects the friction going up). Better, but still not perfect. What else is there to do? I hate looking at the door's innards, and want to close this thing up and get onto next project.
Thinking of buying a new regulator (and possibly motor, but want to avoid that).
SUGGESTIONS PLEASE.

GaryinNE · 03-01-2021, 05:36 PM

Thank you for this post. 82 SC. I used silicone spray and replaced the window felt in about 15 minutes with no disassembly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

pull the channel out. spray silicone spray, the wet kind, down the door frame and also spray the lower 18 inches of the new channel. stuff the felt channel down as far as possible. raise the glass 2 inches, insert a slot screwdriver on an angle against the felt and resting on the edge of the glass. lower the glass and firmly follow with the screwdriver, which will push the felt down with the glass. repeat as needed. just spray one side at a time. early cars used heavy glue on the channel so the frame needs to come out on those.