Another 3.2 Engine rebuild - lots of questions!

[ShakinJoe]

Subby Doo

[GaryR]

Visited the machine shop to drop off my shipment of Valve springs and Ti retainers from Doughtery Racing Cams (where I sent my cams for a regrind). Was told the Mahle pistons and cylinders measure to new spec, heads are all perfect, all good news so far. Once I pick up the finished heads and cam towers (had all broken shroud bolts drilled/tapped) the case with crank and rods are going in to be cleaned, checked, rods resized, ARP bolts stretched, etc. All engine tin has been sandblasted/primed/painted, going to refinish the intake assembly and get my fuel lines out to Len next. Then its re-asssembly time once the cams and other out-sourced stuff gets back!

[jager911]

Would you mind sharing estimate of what a semi-stock rebuild is costing these days with you doing the teardown? I will face that decision or go to a 3.6L.

[KTL]

Not trying to step on Gary's thread. Just will say that 3.6 install is false economy if you don't use a 3.6 with good solid documented maintenance or rebuild history. Many guys have had to rebuild their 3.6 swap.

3.6 is a fantastic step up from the 3.2 or 3.4 in not only power, but more importantly torque. Torque is key on an engine that sees some street usage. You also get twin plug built into the 3.6 as well as knock detectability.

[GaryR]

Moving on refinishing other items while I wait for parts. ..

Fan housing during the glass bead process, had some nasty pitting and deep discoloration - The alternator was stuck in there good and it hadn't been in there that long, it's a fairly new Beck-Arnley 90W unit. I will be laying a coat of never seize in there before reinstalling to make it a breeze to pop out should I ever have to..




Fan housing finished, lite coat of Eastwood Argent silver -



Alternator air deflectors were covered in rust, blasted and coated with Eastwood Etching primer, will shoot the whole thing with enamel, not sure what color.



Engine shroud de-greased, will blast the rusty air deflector and sand/shoot the shroud with whatever color I have hanging around, maybe signal green!

[GaryR]

Originally Posted by jager911

Would you mind sharing estimate of what a semi-stock rebuild is costing these days with you doing the teardown? I will face that decision or go to a 3.6L.

I would say this is going to be in the $5-$6K range but won't know for sure until i'm done and get my final bill from the machine shop.

[jager911]

Originally Posted by GaryR

I would say this is going to be in the $5-$6K range but won't know for sure until i'm done and get my final bill from the machine shop.

Gary,
Thanks, that's ballpark of what I figured. Hope you're tracking details of parts prices and I can pick your brain, if I decide to rebuild. I assume you're going all stock for a stock class but since I don't race, I would add the cost of 964 cams to mine.

BTW, the fan housing came out nice. What are you doing with the fan?

[GaryR]

Originally Posted by jager911

Gary,
Thanks, that's ballpark of what I figured. Hope you're tracking details of parts prices and I can pick your brain, if I decide to rebuild. I assume you're going all stock for a stock class but since I don't race, I would add the cost of 964 cams to mine.

BTW, the fan housing came out nice. What are you doing with the fan?

I'm burning my invoices as they arrive...

Yes, have to stay all stock except the DME Chip, running PCA Stock E. In my case I am replacing all the brake calipers and rotors with Carrera parts also as I am, in essence, turning my SC into a Carrera to move up a race class. FYI, the brake conversion will cost me $1500.00 in parts and a 1/2 day of my time. All removable aluminum engine parts have been glass beaded and have received a light coating of Argent silver to even out the color and protect them. In the past I have used Eastwood Diamond Clear over the aluminum but the discoloration and pitting made for uneven coloring and the Argent wheel paint is very close to raw aluminum.

This is/was my race 3.0 after refinishing using Eastwood clear - it held up great over several years.

[whiz05403]

So you just paint right over the aluminum? Even the cylinder fins? Looks nice

[GaryR]

Originally Posted by whiz05403

So you just paint right over the aluminum? Even the cylinder fins? Looks nice

Yes for external pieces, No I don't paint the cylinder fins, heads, or cam towers. Those parts are bead blasted at the machine shop and left natural as I believe they will dissipate heat better uncoated.

[GaryR]

Never ending need to refinish the poor old girl, this is what the intakes look like now..



Fuel lines are in rough shape, all rubber will be replaced, steel rehabilitated..




Also, found a reducer on the HPS silicone hose site that should take the place of the cracked rubber on this for $15 -

[KTL]

Dang those intakes are screaming to be soda blasted! Yah those fuel lines are the infamous single crimp swivel fittings that can leak if you fart too close to them, let alone touch them!

[Smoove1010]

Originally Posted by GaryR

Also, found a reducer on the HPS silicone hose site that should take the place of the cracked rubber on this for $15 -

If that works, you'll be a hero - Tell us more!
GK

[GaryR]

Originally Posted by Smoove1010

If that works, you'll be a hero - Tell us more!
GK

Not much to tell, just not sure of the fit until it gets here. I measured "close" 12mm ID/15mm ID with a ruler, this is 13mm-16mm so we shall see!

Search results for: 'HTSR-050-062-BLK'

It's 4" long so will be trimmed for length... comes in blue too!

The only thing special about the line is a restrictor inside the copper pipe, but that stays so its just the hose reducer that needs changing..

[Ferrino]

How are you replacing your flexible fuel lines? Are you getting lines made with crimps or going for the DIY route with clamps/AN fittings?

Also, I'd like to know the part number for that reducer if you don't mind sharing. Thanks!

[GaryR]

Originally Posted by Ferrino

How are you replacing your flexible fuel lines? Are you getting lines made with crimps or going for the DIY route with clamps/AN fittings?

Also, I'd like to know the part number for that reducer if you don't mind sharing. Thanks!

I'm having Len replace the fuel lines with crimped fittings. Click on the link, that's the part, but you may want to wait for me to receive it and be sure the fit is perfect before ordering it...

[GaryR]

Intakes before:



Intakes after:




Trying Eastwoods "Cad Paint System" out, figure it can't hurt as these parts were totally corroded. This is Step 1 of 3 (after glass beading and etching primer).. and yes, I bought all new rubber hoses.. don't want them gold. I did the fuel rails and the big T line and ends also..

[Jcslocum]

Was that a quick blast on the intakes and then some silver from Eastwood?

[GaryR]

Originally Posted by Jcslocum

Was that a quick blast on the intakes and then some silver from Eastwood?

Good guess!

[GaryR]

Slow progress as I wait for parts and time to play when i'm not clearing snow..

Intake reassembly - Elbow boot is coming back off to re-black it (just too beat looking to leave alone) and replace clamps. An oetiker clamp set is on the way and all small clamps will be replaced also. Flapper box and butterfly housing beaded and cleared for protection.




Fuel line refinished and off to Len on Monday for new SS hose. Replacing all engine compartment rubber fuel lines, including new feed and return lines. Bad pic, you get the idea..