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Great story. Looking forward to updates. Thanks for sharing.

Took a few hours to replace the sparkplugs (WDC7+), plug wires (Magnecore), Beru Distributor cap, Bosch rotor, Porsche dust seal. It was pretty easy to get to everything with the Blower, A/C and cruise control stuff removed. Still drew some blood though.

Amazingly, the car still runs. I had to use half of the original spark plug wire clips and some tie wraps to hold the wires in place. The Magnecores are thicker than the original Berus. It ain't pretty, but it works. Got a few drives in this weekend. The car is running great!

My dash piece from Rennline should be in next, so I will install it and relocate the window defogger switch (and maybe the flasher switch and light switch too).

I am talking to Heritage Upholstery about an interior vinyl kit and a carpet kit. That will be after the dash.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1434331340.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1434331356.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1434331372.jpg

Changing focus to the dash now.

I removed the cruise control stalk switch.

I just installed the Rennline solid dash piece. The one slotted hole on the right doesn't line up, so I have to drill a new hole. Other than that, it fits "ok".

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1436233501.jpg

I am relocating the headlight and defog switches to this bracket I made that is located where the ashtray was. l will have this bracket powder coated black:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1436233544.jpg

The Flasher switch will be hidden under the dash near the original location.

I have a MOMO Retro Wheel and MOMO hub on order, so that will be installed after I relocate the switches.

Looking good Mike!!

Thank you Jeff.

Looking good! I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with the center console components as I am planning to remove all of my A/C and what not soon.

Got the headlight and defog switches in and wired today. Got new faceplate roses to hold the switches in. That is the fancy term for the plastic nuts for the switches - P/N 911.613.213.03 and 911.613.213.02. I will remove the aluminum bracket when I am done making all brackets and send them all out for powdercoat.

Everything still works! Next I will make a small angle bracket for the Emergency Flasher switch. It will still be on the left side, just under the panel, and angled like the other two, so I don't have to look at it.

Received my new Momo Retro steering wheel, hub and horn button. They are going to look nice.

I will be waiting until I glue up some of the gauge vinyl that has separated, replace the odometer gear (gear ordered) and install the gauge LED lights before the wheel/hub install. Then the dash is done and I move to interior vinyl and carpet.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1437276092.jpg

Today I glued the vinyl that was loose,drilled one hole in the Rennline piece, and then attached the dash for good. I installed new LED bulbs in the gauges. I then reassembled the steering wheel area switch covers and installed a Momo Retro wheel/hub. I had to remove the porsche horn swiper and extend the horn ground cable. Here is a picture. I have not permanently installed the horn button as I need to drive the car to make sure it is splined up properly.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1437352402.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1437352491.jpg

My speedo is out awaiting the replacement odometer gear.

Great progress. Enjoying the build.

Thanks!

Got the odometer fixed with a new gear today and plugged it back in. The I checked the orientation of the steering wheel on a short drive, centered it, tightened it and then installed the new horn button. The dash is nearly done. I will order the carpet and and vinyl for the interior next. I have one other idea for the dash that I am exploring...

I like the new Momo. Nice feel. It is weird after having driven this car for some 25+ years and with 250k miles on it to grab a different wheel. Not "bad" weird, just different.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1437447018.jpg

Some progress this weekend. Yesterday I had the better part of a day, so I customized the Rennline dash delete piece. I always liked the retro basketweave look. So I bought some continuous pieces of the extrusion and the basketweave material. First, I cut the basketweave to the correct width using the backside of the extrusion as a guide and a new exacto blade. The front side has some overhang in the top and bottom of the extrusion where the vinyl is tucked while gluing.

Here are the materials I used - the yellow adhesive for bonding the vinyl to extrusion, and the double sided sticky foam for adhering the extrusion to the dash face:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1439150638.jpg

I used some inexpensive plastic spreaders form Harbor Freight, modifying one by snipping the end with wire cutters every 1/16" or so and then changing the overall width to fit neatly inside the extrusion:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1439150615.jpg

The spreader made a nice thin layer of glue with small ridges. You let this sit while you spread the glue on the vinyl:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1439150662.jpg

You don't have to get to the edges of the vinyl as they will be tucked under. If you put too much adhesive or get too close to the edge, this just creates a mess on the front side that will need to be cleaned up.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1439150684.jpg

You get a limited amount of time to get the vinyl into position. You need to land it fairly close to where it needs to be. I used a clean plastic spreader to work the vinyl under the extrusion edge.

Using a table saw, I had cut a section of leftover plywood I had laying around so that it would fit very tightly inside the edges of the extrusion. This was used to help clamp the vinyl while the glue set up.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1439150703.jpg

I kept them clamped for 15-30 minutes and then moved onto the other half of the big piece. The small piece on the driver's side was one shot.

I then wrapped and glued the ends to the back of the extrusion and cut the hole for the ignition switch (pizza cut) and glued the vinyl back around the hole.

Lastly, I put the double sided foam adhesive tape (1/4" wide) on the length of the extrusion next to the top and bottom edges and clamped that in place on the dash.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1439151512.jpg

Installing the dash was easy. The only interference came from the lower steering column clamshell lower plastic flange. A dremel cut of about 3/16 relieved that and the rest was easy and fast. Total time (including cutting the extrusion) was about 3 hours.

Total cost:
Rennline dash - $225
Extrusion - $125
Vinyl - $25.

I really like the look.

I like the basketweave so much that I covered my new under dash switch panel in it:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1439151785.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1439151807.jpg

Hoping to finish off the interior with fresh carpet and vinyl next. I will also be adding a shiny metal engine grill.

Oh, and I found a deal (thanks Lou) on a new Dansk steel S bumper for $680 that I just ordered.

Before:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1439152107.jpg

After:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1439152130.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1439152157.jpg

That looks great. It's the small details that really make a difference.

Subscribing to your madness!

Loving this project, incredible attention to detail, excellent craftsmanship too.

Can you tell me where you found the extrusion and any details you have on it, thanks.

BTW awesome project.

-Rich

+1 SmileWavy

Thanks everyone. I bought the extrusion and vinyl from this seller.

Porsche 911 Dash Trim Aluminum for Custom Applications | eBay

Chuck is a real nice person. He cut me the exact lengths I specified and sent me an extra piece so that I could figure out how best to cut it. I used a new fine metal blade jigsaw (bosch t118a - about 20 TPI from Home Depot) cutting from the backside so the teeth pull up through the visible front side...it worked great.

The vinyl he sent was probably 6 inches wide and some 6 feet long. This was enough to probably do the job twice over if you use one of his edges trimmed right to use it. The width you need will be around 2.5"-2.75" inches I think.

One thing to know is that the aluminum is raw - not anodized or dipped. It is soft. I protected the edges with painters tape during the process.

You might notice a gap between my two extrusion pieces...this could be removed if so desired. It can't really be seen that easily.

Anything else I can tell you?

Mike

One other thing I will add about trimming and applying the vinyl...the front face has very small undercuts to it so that the vinyl can tuck underneath the top and bottom edges. I used the backside of the extrusion as a template to cut to as the undercuts are not there. I think this allows you to not have to put glue too close to the edge as it is held in the undercut.I hope that this makes sense.

Mike

Oh, I am busy ordering body parts now...steel front bumper is in hand, steel rear RS bumpers are on order. I am now hunting steel fenders.

Just got the two rear bumpers from Porsche. They look well made. They weigh in around 9 lbs each.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1442437628.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1442437661.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1442437685.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1442437709.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1442437757.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1442437778.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1442437795.jpg

Excellent work, thanks for sharing. The impact bumper clearly saved your car from much worse damage when it was hit. I am starting to think twice about using my fiberglass rsr bumpers...one small hit and the car will be totalled.

Thanks! I got hit twice in this car...both times from the rear. That pushed me towards using steel parts for the impact points - bumpers and fenders. I might use a fiberglass hood though.

Okay, I have been slacking long enough. I am back near the car now and can start working on it. I made a small bracket for the Emergency Flasher switch to tuck up under the dash at it's normal location. Pictured here are the card stock template, the prototype which I bent in the wrong direction and then bloodied my two fingers rebending only to destroy it, and the final version. It sandwiches in between the Rennline dash and the car's original.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1445988627.jpg

Next item is to start removing rear bumper and see what I need to do to get these new bumpers on.

Finally the switch is installed. I had modify the wiring at the switch a little as it was blowing a fuse. Further investigation shows that this new Emergence Flasher switch I got is wired slightly differently.

Here is the schematic from Hella for the new switch:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1446066757.jpg

Comparing old and new schematics it looks like socket wire 31 needs to be relocated to position 58 according to old switch designations (or 30b switched to 31 according to the new switch designations), then wire 49 need to be jumpered with 30b according to the new switch designations.

Lastly, the wire with diode going to position 58 (old designation) is no longer needed. Cap and stow this one. This wire looks like it lit the switch when the headlight switch was pulled out.

From low looking up under the dash:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1446065244.jpg

and from closer to a normal seated position:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1446065448.jpg

Hi Mike,

Your project is coming along! I am doing another car myself and wanted to do something similar with the dash, question though, what did you do with your hvac controls? I am keeping defroster in this one and adding a/c so I will need the control board. Would it be easy enough to cut it in?

Thanks
Dave

Dave,

I got rid of my HVAC only keeping fresh air and backdated heat. The dash controls should be easy to cut in. If you keep your glove box and just update with the aluminum and basketweave, they make pieces already trimmed for HVAC controls.

Mike

Ordering interior carpet and vinyl very soon - getting the final quotes now...

So yesterday I spent about 3 hours removing the rear of the car - that is chronicled in this thread:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/889132-rear-bumper-removal-process-1985-3-2-a.html#post8857661

Here is the result:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1446246285.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1446246297.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1446246308.jpg

Now I have to find a way to attach the new backdate bumpers to this chassis at these points:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1446246351.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1446246367.jpg

There are several ways, there was a thread a few months about this, fitting the required captive nuts to mount the same way as the original.

I had a different situation, having bought rather damaged SWB rear bumpers and had to modify them heavily to fit, but ended up using the original mounts with the modification occurring in the bumpers themselves.

Not sure if you want to do all this, but I thought I would not mess up your thread with my stuff, so here is the link.....if you want more pictures let me know, I can do that pretty easily.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/185692-fitting-6-speed-g50-89-carrera-11.html#post8857766

I know that if I were you, I would mount as per original stock, after shaving off that short hood rear bumper stuff.

Hope this helps

Dennis

I see you did create quite the modification, thanks.

I have been looking for pictures of stock mounting locations on an early car, but have come up short so far. Still looking....

I finally sucked it up and started cutting metal. I had to wrap my head around the idea that it is going to get uglier before it gets prettier.

So I had to drill out 27 spot welds to get the reflector panel off. I used a Harbor Freight $4.99 spot weld drill bit and it worked great (I have a new Harbor Freight store about 10 minutes away from me). I actually drilled through in a couple of places:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1447475880.jpg

I don't see how you can't. The only issue with this is that the bit was too short to clear the horizontal of the reflector panel, so the bit was biting at an angle. This caused it to walk. I would mark the centers of the spot welds then drill a small pilot dimple. The spot weld bit has a spring loaded center punch that will stay in the pilot dimple and prevent walking.

The two spot welds on each side are larger and I had to drill those completely out.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1447475976.jpg

I then pried the top edge of the panel to pop all of the top welds. After that I sliced the reflector panel in two down the center and pulled each out while working the side welds. I had to use a grinder to cut the welds between the panel and the sides. All in all it came out pretty clean. The top corners have some kind of filler in there which I will need to get out.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1447475928.jpg

The Dansk replacement center panel seems to it fine.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1447476094.jpg

I will need to relocate my muffler bracket bolts further under as they touch the center panel now in their present location.

There is no edge or any surface on the body for the center panel to attach to. I guess it rests under the vertical edge that the spot welds are on. So these spot welds will need to be removed and cleaned up.

I then spent a couple of hours trying to slowly trim the left bumper trying remove interference and to salvage as much metal as I could. In the end, despite some pretty elaborate cuts, the best fit was a straight vertical cross section sliced through parallel to the rear of the car. I am close to where it needs to be, I think I will trim maybe 1/4" more off. I want to keep the one spot weld to the cross brace if at all possible (see the red marks in this photo).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1447476230.jpg

I think this will remove all interference with the bumper shock mount area.

The profile of the bumper fits the car pretty well.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1447476269.jpg

I think the forward chrome bumper end cap will be needed to bring the bumper front surface even to the front surface of the wheel well.

The outside edge of the bracket that I cut (blue line in the above photo) is nearly parallel and lines up with the outside edge of the bumper shock mount hole bracket.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1447476365.jpg

I think a single adapter plate (or maybe an offset stack) will work. Two bolts through the adapter and into the bumper bracket, and two into the bumper shock bolt holes.

I will trim this bumper to my new red trim line and clean up the edges. I will then make a prototype adapter plate out of aluminum to see what it will look like.

Speaking of backdating, found this on You Tube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJx7fqR9ox8

Okay, after making a bazillion templates out of wood and aluminum, I finally started cutting steel and cleco-ing up the adapters. Here they are installed loosely - I still need the front of the rear bumper attachment tubes, and to bolt it all up with seals in place.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1448223666.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1448223683.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1448223724.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1448223747.jpg

Dude the bus is tit's!!!! good job on the back date also!

Thanks! I think I have had that bus for over 10 years. It's a 1971 tin top Westy.

Well today I final drilled and bolted them in place and everything fits great. Whew. Waiting for the tube supports for the front ends of the rear bumpers. Just got the bumper seals in too.

Starting on the vinyl replacement for the B Pillars now. Ordered replacement foam and vinyl from Lakewell along with the squareweave carpet. The first task at hand was removing the old foam and glue off. The used 3M74 to put the new foam on and trimmed to fit:http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1453180594.jpg

Then I use contact cement on the backside of the edge of the car channel and put a strip of it on the corresponding back edge of the vinyl:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1453180696.jpg

And then I tacked the two together using a clean popsicle stick and lightly clamped them together using popsicle sticks and clothes pins:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1453180800.jpg

Tomorrow I will spray 3M74 on the foam and back of the vinyl and tack it down. I will then use the contact cement, popsicle stick, clothes pin method on the other edge. Lastly, I will trim excess with an Exacto knife.

I am debating whether I pull all the old heavy sound insulation from the rear or not...I am still not decided.

Here is a shot of a new carpet piece - charcoal squareweave:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1453181044.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1453181079.jpg