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-   -   so this is how a backdate project starts... (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/819396-so-how-backdate-project-starts.html)

SpyderMike 11-15-2016 07:43 PM

Actually, the last thing I did was spend a half hour or more taking the old seals off the taillight buckets and cleaning old glue residue off. I received new seals today and will do a fairly quick cleanup of these. I had to buy new hardware to install them as the old stuff had seen better days.

SpyderMike 11-16-2016 03:49 PM

Today's effort was to sand, prime and paint the satin black area of the door in preparation for the new door panels:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479339984.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479340009.jpg

While the paint was drying I installed the hardware and reset the spring ends on the window regulator:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479340035.jpg

and shortened and reterminated the keyless entry wires (this system installation is now complete):

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479340056.jpg

SpyderMike 11-16-2016 03:53 PM

I am now waiting for some parts to finish the doors off. I can install the regulator on the passenger side. I need a new rubber boot for that door switch.

I am also cleaning and resealing the rear light boxes. I have new seals but they are grey-ish in color. I am getting some rubber restore before installing them.

The end of the door work is in sight! After this I will move to the front end of the car where I will be replacing the fenders, hood and bumper. I have the bumper in hand. I need to source all the rest of the bits.

SpyderMike 11-23-2016 07:31 PM

Got the parts in and started by finishing off the passenger door. I like the RS A door cards. I spent a bit more time than I planned getting the plastic done and right. I used 3M Window Weld Butyl for the waterproof seal of the plastic.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479958284.jpg

SpyderMike 04-16-2017 10:09 AM

I got a day to myself and attacked the front end. It was very satisfying to removing the bumper/valance, the fenders and the rocker covers. This should be the final push.

Years of dirt to remove in some spots:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492362416.jpg

But it cleans up nice:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492362416.jpg

I need to treat the fender to chassis seams as I found some light surface rust in spots:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492362416.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492362416.jpg

How do I get down to the painted surface in the wheel wells without damaging the paint?

Malaga76 04-19-2017 03:24 AM

Cleaning painted surfaces:

1. Spray on degreaser (I used Formula 88 from Home Depot). Let set for 5-10 minutes.
2. Pressure wash, not too much pressure and keep wand at least 18-24 inches from surface.
3. Repeat steps 1 & 2 as needed.

SpyderMike 04-19-2017 09:07 PM

Thanks, I will give it a try soon.

Flojo 05-03-2017 06:54 AM

so, how's it going?

SpyderMike 05-03-2017 08:59 AM

Slow right now. Guests in town visiting and fenders on order waiting for arrival. Thanks for checking in.

kgieg 05-03-2017 08:19 PM

Subscribed! Would love to do this to my "74. I used non diluted simple green with a soft round brush and the garden hose. Worked great down to the original finish. Made a big catch basin with 10 mill plastic and washed it out the garage door when done.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1493868053.JPG

Mad Max 05-04-2017 06:46 AM

Subscribed

SpyderMike 05-04-2017 08:36 AM

I am thinking of pushing the car out in the driveway and washing this all down into the gutter. This is suburbia So Cal, will there be a huge stain in my driveway afterwards?

SpyderMike 05-04-2017 08:37 AM

I received notice that the new fenders and seam sealer have shipped!

Modifier 05-13-2017 04:33 AM

Where did you source your fenders from?...I need to do the same and haven't found any good used ones.

SpyderMike 05-13-2017 09:34 AM

I bought new Porsche fenders from Sunset Porsche in Beaverton Oregon. They came poorly packaged and I have to check for damage. Not sure which party was responsible for the damaged packaging just yet. Total cost delivered for the two fenders was $2800. Yikes. Hope they fit well.

SpyderMike 05-15-2017 07:27 PM

Okay, got about 5 hours in today. First off I test fit the fenders and looked for interference. I found I first had to remove the horns. I will probably separate the horns and put one on each side of the chassis pointing towards the horn grills (makes sense).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1494901148.jpg

I also had to remove the white bracket that held the horns to the chassis (arrow). I will probably come up with a "L" bracket off sorts from the chassis to support the headlight bucket area of the fender.

Then I found the bumper shock area needed to be notched (red rectangle). I cut in about 3/4" and down about half way. I may need to take more meat off to clear the horn grill or I will have to trim the horn grill. We will see after I buy those.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1494901148.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1494901148.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1494901148.jpg

Then there was a slight interference with the oil cooler. I moved the cooler all the way inboard that I could and notched the edge of it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1494902048.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1494901148.jpg

SpyderMike 05-15-2017 07:33 PM

Next I had to massage the body flanges and fender flanges where the blue tape is showing. I need tighter 90 degree bends to allow the metal to come together. I also had to hammer some sheetmetal on the chassis that seems to cause a high point in the curve near the front lid edge.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1494902207.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1494902207.jpg

My car has been in an accident so I am thinking this may have cause some wonkyness in places. The fender on the passenger's side sits slightly higher and still has a high spot, but after a few hours of massaging, things started getting close:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1494901869.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1494901869.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1494901869.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1494901869.jpg

More work to be done in the next day or two. I still have to decide on a hood/lid solution.

SpyderMike 05-20-2017 10:27 AM

Making progress now. The passenger's side fender still has some crowning interference in the underlying chassis. I tried to take some of it out with a hammer to the tub. The most forward fender attach hole doesn't line up. This could be a result of the accident years ago. You can see an uneven gap between the chassis and the horn grill area inner edge...this difference is about 1/4". Anyway, we just make it fit the best we can. After all, I have never done this and it is not a show car:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495301201.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495301201.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495301201.jpg

SpyderMike 05-20-2017 10:39 AM

So now I try to fit my bumper on. First I removed more of the bumper shock attach point (red vertical lines) while retaining the shock clamps bolt holes:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495301714.jpg

Then I have to locate and drill these slotted holes (picture borrowed from this site - disregard the arrow). Someone was nice enough to give me some guidance to get me started on another thread I posted:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495167597.jpg

I bought stock URO brand brackets that were really nice pieces ($29 each). Very stout. With the slots at the bumper attach end and slots and floating nuts in the chassis attach end there is a pretty good range of motion on locating these brackets. I did feel a little interference with the oil cooler sheetmetal against the valance:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495303408.jpg

The oil cooler sheetmetal is real thin there and easily bent out of place.

Here is where the bolts end up. I might make a strap to connect the two bolt heads and double up on the Driver's side and use larger fender washers where I can:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495301714.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495301714.jpg

The head of one bolt is real near the jack holder, but the head still turns. Worst case, I can get a standoff and longer bolt to bring the head out beyond the jack holder.

SpyderMike 05-20-2017 11:12 AM

I still have to come up with a bracket to tie into the headlight bucket to support the fender, and into this flange of the bumper:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495303731.jpg

I also think a clamp of some sort (not a C Clamp as shown) between the fender and bumper flanges in a couple of places will help prevent the issues I see with a lot of cars in this area - uneven bumper to fender gap. For some reason my eye always goes to those details - the horn grills slightly cocked, the turn signal lenses that are askew, the hood to fender gaps and the fender to bumper gaps. I will see how well I can do this.

SpyderMike 05-20-2017 11:14 AM

The end result of five peaceful hours in the garage. It was a bit of a challenge handling the bumper install without another set of hands, but it rested nicely on the crash bar albeit a bit low of final position. The crash bar ultimately had to be removed as it interfered:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495303984.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495303984.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495303984.jpg

and, in an unusual happenstance, no blood was drawn!

SpyderMike 05-20-2017 11:25 AM

Okay, so I need to come up with a bracket for the bumper- and fender-to-chassis support. I also want to beef up the bolt head areas to spread the loads with fender washers or doublers. And I need to split up the horns and mount one on each side behind ...wait for it...the horn grills. I think I can use the threaded receptacle that the bumper shocks bolted into for this purpose. A little wiring will be needed to make this happen.

Looking at the second picture up from here, I wonder why no one has come up with a fiberglass or sheetmetal filler panel for these backdate projects so that the original hood can be retained. Done right, I think it could be installed and adjusted for a tight seam fit at the lid to minimize the line. It would be real easy to install. Hmmm, I feel a new thread coming on.

I know what is looming is the purchase of a new longhood lid and then the inevitable attempt to make that work somehow without too much modification.

dwelle 05-20-2017 11:44 AM

i'm right there, mike, and thinking about ditching the FG bumper and going steel. at this point, everything else is steel, so i may as well go all in. i'm definitely interested to see how this goes for you.

interesting, i have a 3.2 in my car and the same cooler as you, and while the fit was tight, i didn't have any clearance issues between the cooler and the fender. my car is a '76, so the cooler was added later obviously and must be in a slightly different spot. i have a similar idea for the horns, but haven't tackled that one yet.

also, i notched the fender, not the bracket on the body. i didn't want to cut anything on my car.

let's chat when you get the bumper bracket situation sorted, i might like to piggy back off of your efforts.

good work!...

SpyderMike 05-20-2017 12:03 PM

The interference at the lower edge of the cooler was pretty minimal - it just kept the lower valance lip pushed out when I tried to tighten the gap at the the bumper end near that tire. I was easily able to bend the thin metal at the cooler out of the way.

I debated cutting the fender vs cutting the chassis. I realised that the cut I made to the chassis was really structurally minimal. That area had been reworked in my accident already and an attachment can be rewelded for much less than the $2600 I have into the fenders. If my car had been unmolested to begin with, it would definitely affect my decision making.

I have an idea in mind for the bracket...I need to mock it up and try it in aluminum first. I will post results.

Harpo 05-20-2017 01:09 PM

Looking good Mike. Hope to follow in your foot steps soon

David

SpyderMike 05-20-2017 01:37 PM

Thanks David....it really is just a series of small-ish projects. This site and all of the knowledge accessible here really helps.

SpyderMike 05-20-2017 07:39 PM

Had a little time today so I pondered how to support the fender at the headlight bucket (like they did in 1985) and the bumper at the point which, in a 1972, would be attached to the chassis at a L angle support off the battery box. I also wanted the option of attaching a horn on each side somewhere in there. It would be pointed forward and down.

After sketching several ideas, I chose one and hunted down some scrap L channel metal I had laying around to use as a template. I used some snips and cut a flat in one end. I bent it to go from the 1985 bumper shock rear attach point to the flange off the bumper that I want to support. Low and behold, when I looked down through the headlight bucket, I could see that the piece of angle was in view and not far out of alignment. I found a piece of 1-1/2" L 6160-T6 aluminum I had laying around and made some brackets.

Here is the rough bracket and the original template:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495333939.jpg

another hour or two fitting, bending, cutting and sanding I made a mirror image pair and got them closer to being dialed in:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495334006.jpg

There is more to do, but this is close. The top one is the Driver's side. The idea is that the flanges on the left attach to the bumper shock bolt location and the opposite ends mirror the curve of the fender to give clearance. I will use adjustable standoffs - one going up to the headlight bucket and one down to the bumper flange. They are off in axis by inches, but the effect should be to tie everything together and make a stiff assembly once snugged up. That is the theory anyway, we will see.

SpyderMike 05-31-2017 05:54 PM

I have nearly finalized my brackets. These are intended to fix the fender to the bumper to the chassis out where it is somewhat floating. I spent more time tweaking them and getting the standoffs the correct lengths. I also spent time centering the bumper as close as possible. I have one interference point I need to deal with (red arrow). It should be easy to alleviate.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1496278426.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1496278426.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1496278426.jpg

SpyderMike 06-10-2017 03:11 PM

I received my metal hood, and, with the help of my wife and an abandoned pack of Coors Light (only used for the zombie apocalypse when the good stuff runs out), I got it installed and aligned in about 15 minutes. Pretty easy actually. The fit is great. I used one spacer on each of the rear attach locations.

The hood has one flat spot that will have to be dealt with and some superficial scratches that were touched up - it came from Porsche that way I think as there was no evidence of tampering with the box.

After taping off the mating body edges that could be damaged and using some towels in the vulnerable areas, I was able to do it unscathed. The beer box helped raise the hood so that I could fasten the screws. I used the same arrangement to remove the old hood.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1497132203.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1497132203.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1497132203.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1497132203.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1497132203.jpg

I think I am now needing to remove all of these metal items and send them out for paint !

SpyderMike 06-10-2017 03:16 PM

Oh, and I decided to buy new horns. The old trumpets are too long and a bit of a challenge to find a spot to mount them, so I did some research and bought these PIAA Sports Horns (shown near the original trumpets for size reference). About $49 delivered via Amazon Prime. I tested the horns by watching YouTube videos (people will record anything). They are small and loud. I might split them up - one on each side. If not that, I will put both behind the driver's side fender so they don't block the oil cooler. It should be real easy to split the harness as it originates down the driver's side to the passenger's side.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1497132938.jpg

SpyderMike 06-10-2017 03:18 PM

So, now I need to figure out a latching system for the hood...something interesting. I have a few ideas.

SpyderMike 08-26-2017 04:56 PM

So while I was waiting for my painted parts, several things happened to me, and the only thing I got done on the car was to take car of the spot welds from the rear plate removal. I used a 3M putty filler. I had never done it before, but it was pretty easy actually.

Before - note the spot welds:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1503791565.jpg

I sanded those spot welds down with a grinder and then a sander. Then I mixed the spot putty and smeared it into place.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1503791580.jpg

I had to fill a couple of times to get one hole just right.

After curing, I sanded and primed:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1503791580.jpg

Now I need to shoot the paint - I have a touch up can that is pretty close.

SpyderMike 08-26-2017 04:59 PM

Oh boy, I picked up some restored 16X7 and 16X8 wheels and all my parts are back from paint!

I also bought some front turn signal light boxes and front and rear bumper deco trim. I am going to start out with the narrow trim style.

Time to start the final assembly!!

Harpo 08-27-2017 08:33 AM

As usual, Very nicely done Mike

SpyderMike 08-27-2017 12:25 PM

Thank you Dave.

Some pictures of the bits (the hood is safely wrapped and stored in the garage):

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1503861861.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1503861861.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1503861861.jpg

SpyderMike 08-27-2017 04:17 PM

I was asked for dimensions on my outrigger type fender/bumper brackets. Here are some pictures. I made them out of 1.5" T6061 aluminum that was 1/8" thick angle that I had laying around. One seems to be about 1/2" longer that the other - probably because of an interference issue on the oil cooler side or possibly the angle is different between the two. Not much of these dimensions is critical. In the photos, I have the very tips of the brackets at the 1" mark on the tape measure.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1503875631.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1503875631.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1503875631.jpg

So basically, I took 2" off on side of the end that will bolt to the rear bumper shock fastening hole, angle cut the vertical support side the full length to lighten it (you don't really need to do this), and profiled the other end to follow the angle of the fender/bumper. Then I projected up from the bumper attach flange and down from the headlight bucket attach hole to locate the bolt holes.

SpyderMike 08-27-2017 04:26 PM

Here is what I got done today. I used some self adhesive closed cell foam around the perimeter of the interior battery bracket support plate and fastened the battery box inside the smuggler's box. Then I put the wood part in the passenger's footwell and reinstalled the carpet on that side. Then I hooked up the electrical to the battery and put it on a charger:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1503876259.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1503876259.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1503876259.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1503876259.jpg

SpyderMike 08-27-2017 04:34 PM

I will be degreasing the wheel wells next and I needed to close up some holes into the frunk, so I put some metal tape inside and outside a battery acid burn through hole:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1503876585.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1503876585.jpg

and installed some screws through roofing washers (metal washer with neoprene washer on one side) in some screw holes that used to support hose clamps that I will not be using:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1503876752.jpg

I then made some horn extenders as I will be mounting one horn per side behind the horn grills. The original horn wires go from driver's side to passenger's side where the both horns are mounted in front of the oil cooler pointing down. There the wire jumpers from one horn to the other as they are colocated there. I just made jumpers from the one horn and ran them back to the other side of the car using some 14ga wire.

SpyderMike 08-27-2017 04:39 PM

When the deco trim comes in, I will start at the back of the car with rear bumpers, center panel, license plate bracket, bumperettes, and then work the front end.

I am still not sure if I will run narrow deco trim at the rockers, forego the trim and paint some fasteners matching white and screw them in with roofing washers, or use white rivets and set them.

SpyderMike 08-29-2017 01:49 PM

The trim is two weeks out, so I continue to prep. I didn't like how grimy the wheel wells were in front:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1504039354.jpg

so I drove the car out onto the driveway and degreased/rinsed them (after sealing holes). What was left was a mix of white, brown and black in the wells. I was painting the rear area where I had filled the spot welds:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1504039354.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1504039354.jpg

and I had a bunch of left over paint, so I sprayed the wells to clean them up a bit:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1504039354.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1504039354.jpg


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