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Which SSI hardware? Plz help :)

Guys,

I recently purchased a set of SSI's for my 79 3.0. Can someone please help me with which head to ssi gaskets I need? There appear to be a few different ones:

930-111-191-13-M30 and 930-111-191-13-M17

Also --- I assume these are the nuts that I should get to replace the old ones that hooked up the stock heat exchangers to the heads?

999-084-052-02-M260

Aaaaand… this is the muffler gasket? yes?

911-111-191-02-M17

Thanks!

Paul

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03' Audi RS6; 16' 328i xDrive Touring; 13' X3 mSport, 91' e30 M52

Last edited by sempaipaul; 12-07-2014 at 06:36 PM..
Old 12-07-2014, 06:33 PM
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Anyone?
Old 12-08-2014, 03:59 AM
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Your numbers look correct to me based on this UK site I used for reference when I fitted ssi's to my 3.4.

http://www.type911shop.co.uk/shop/category_71/Fittings-_-Heating.html?sessid=59c5FYVyMvAQNjL3SOUZWBUJifWDro XAayMAPCHytkurZAxyn6LJTL71hS6dTzyJ&shop_param=cid%3D%26
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Old 12-08-2014, 05:17 AM
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Excellent! Thanks!

Regards,
Paul
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03' Audi RS6; 16' 328i xDrive Touring; 13' X3 mSport, 91' e30 M52
Old 12-08-2014, 06:13 PM
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I suggest using this link to confirm part numbers.

Porsche Original Parts Catalogue - Parts and Diagnostic Information - Porsche Service - Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG

Sherwood
Old 12-08-2014, 07:29 PM
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Y'know, in searching Pelican's offerings on gaskets for your application, I recall 25 years ago having the same question. Do you buy a gasket for the year engine that you have, or do you buy the pre-1974 gasket to match the SSIs? As I recall, I did the latter.

Brian
Old 12-09-2014, 05:40 AM
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Guys,

Finally getting around to this --- Do these nuts 999-084-052-02-M260 replace the old 8mm socket type of nut 999-085-001-02? Looks like I have the socket type on my SC right now.

Let me know what your thoughts are!

Regards,
Paul
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03' Audi RS6; 16' 328i xDrive Touring; 13' X3 mSport, 91' e30 M52
Old 02-22-2015, 11:43 AM
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Not sure mechanical lock nuts are needed here. Nature has its way of locking these in place. YMMV.

At any rate, to stave off corrosion from future road muck, I suggest covering threads and fastener with anti-seize compound, before and after installing the nut. The socket-head nuts are factory and allow hex driver access through the HE, but not necessarily required if you can otherwise access them with the right wrench/tool.

Sherwood

BTW, the PParts description is a little confusing, "M8-13".

M8 is the threaded shank OD, usually followed by the thread pitch; exhaust studs and other 911 fasteners are commonly used M8-1.25. The "13" probably refers to the wrench size for the hex nut. However, 12mm wrench-size M8 nuts are sometimes recommended to allow better tool access in that area as are nuts made of copper in either size for increased corrosion resistance.

Last edited by 911pcars; 02-22-2015 at 12:37 PM..
Old 02-22-2015, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 911pcars View Post
Not sure mechanical lock nuts are needed here. Nature has its way of locking these in place. YMMV.

At any rate, to stave off corrosion from future road muck, I suggest covering threads and fastener with anti-seize compound, before and after installing the nut. The socket-head nuts are factory and allow hex driver access through the HE, but not necessarily required if you can otherwise access them with the right wrench/tool.

Sherwood

BTW, the PParts description is a little confusing, "M8-13".

M8 is the threaded shank OD, usually followed by the thread pitch; exhaust studs and other 911 fasteners are commonly used M8-1.25. The "13" probably refers to the wrench size for the hex nut. However, 12mm wrench-size M8 nuts are sometimes recommended to allow better tool access in that area as are nuts made of copper in either size for increased corrosion resistance.
Ok - thanks for the response.

So in other words I can replace the existing hex "nuts" with normal locking nuts with locking nylon…. correct?

Thanks,
Paul
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Old 02-22-2015, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sempaipaul View Post
Ok - thanks for the response.

So in other words I can replace the existing hex "nuts" with normal locking nuts with locking nylon…. correct?

Thanks,
Paul
Don't think the nylon will last in this heated atmosphere. Nothing wrong with regular nuts torqued to spec. Probably okay, but I'm hesitant to use a nut that has a higher removal torque than necessary, especially when attempting to remove after 12 years in service. When you get a chance, observe the condition of HE nuts/studs in any under-car engine photo.

For example:


Sherwood

Old 02-22-2015, 01:02 PM
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