Triangle of death re do

[Wew]

Hi all,

1978 3.0 Rebuild motor bottom up. No leaks anywhere on seams or seals, except, ithe triangle of death.
Dropped the motor and took the following pick...
The oil pressure sender, which I put job weld on the top looks like it is still leaking at the base. I.e. The reducer piece that goes into the block. Anyone else deal with this before and if so how did you solve. For good measure I purchased all new again another switch, the actual reducer piece that goes into the block, oil breather housing gasket and hose and thermostat rubber ring (green). Anyone come across this situation and how does one finally conquer the triangle of death?
I am ready for battle.

Thanks,

Gary

[DRACO A5OG]

Make sure breather hose is seated properly and the hose clamp is not sitting on the divet of the breather fitment. I mistakenly placed the clamp there and created a leak.

[Wew]

Good one thanks. The stock braided hose barely makes it ti the oil tank without routing throug the cis. Quite cloodgey

[Flat6pac]

On an SC, the braided hose needs to be replaced with proper rubber hose that is pre-formed.
Bruce

[mreid]

You didn't mention it, but did you also purchase a new sealing ring for the sender?

[Wew]

O.K. This could be my BIG problem. I thought the washer that came with it was all I needed.
I am attaching a couple of pics to confirm we are talking about the same thing and B that this is the seal I need if this is correct.
Thanks in advance for weighing in on this.

[Wew]

Which is the proper rubber hose for the braided hose replacement. Sorry for asking but I want to be sure cause I prefer not to do another engine drop in the near future if possible. more driving and less wrenching at some point will be good.
Thanks,

Gary

[chrismorse]

Here is a shot of a sudden and massive, (12 quart ~ 4 seconds), leak from the triangle. Note that the nuts are still on the thermostat studs. Likely, some harried soul over-tightened, (pulled) the studs with unfortunate results.

When in doubt, Helicoil.

regards,
chris

[gtc]

I used threebond 1211 on both sides of the breather gasket, as suggested in the complete engine sealant thread. No way in hell is that thing ever leaking now.

[Flat6pac]

I don't understand the second picture for reference.
Here is the hoses
93010739900 before the throttle body on the black boot to the fill tube on the oil tank
93010728900. The air restrictor jams into the hose. This is the reason the engine stumbles removing oil cap.
93020738601. Hose between engine breather at triangle and side of oil tank.
Bruce

[Wew]

Hi all,

Thanks for the input and advice.

Bruce. The second picture is in reference to m reid mentioning a seal for the pressure sensor.

Thanks again for the input, feedback, and recommendations.

Gary

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by Wew

O.K. This could be my BIG problem. I thought the washer that came with it was all I needed.
I am attaching a couple of pics to confirm we are talking about the same thing and B that this is the seal I need if this is correct.
Thanks in advance for weighing in on this.

Oh no, the sealing ring on the new switch is all you need. Proper torque is critical as too much will squeeze the seal out and cause a leak.

If you open it, yes you will need a new seal ring.

[DRACO A5OG]

I suggest clean the area once more and check one more time. Paper towels secured by zip ties will help allot for suspect areas/component/s

[Dave Kost]

Is this sealing ring aluminum? Squeeze it out?

Im confused. Can someone confirm if this is an o ring or aluminum flat washer.

Thanks, ( I am putting my 75 motor back together )

[DRACO A5OG]

Aluminum Crush Washer aka seal washer

[gazzerr]

I bought a new switch and the sealing ring is already installed on the switch.