911SC Turbo

[sammyg2]

To heck with the springs, where did you get that hat?

[iamchappy]

OH MY, OMG, Just took the 914 turbo sc out for it's first test drive. Everything happens so fast I cant tell what is happening, cant watch the a/r gauge, boost and tach at the same time. The short gears have to go, I feel like I have 4 first gears.
A/r gauge reads rich on boost no pre-detonation sounds with no retard of ignition, Honestly I cant tell you what I am boosting at I think 7 lbs like I say it all happens so fast there is only a fraction of a second to check out one gauge at a time.
I think I need a passenger to help me. I will put my stock geared tranny in, and swap the Quaffe lsd out of the short geared tranny later. I will go out later today and try out 5th gear and see if it will give me enough time to evaluate what is going on. But that could be very scary if the tach hits redline as fast as the other gears have. There is only a second from 4000 to 6500 on boost to evaluate what had just happened.

[BURN-BROS]

LOL! Now thats a post that you don't usually hear in a 914 forum. Congrats with your success and drive down to San Diego and I will gladly be your passenger.

[sammyg2]

God job Chap, you didn't waste much time getting it running.

Mine is geared tall enough so that I can check stuff out in third, but second goes by too quick also.

I've got mine up to 7 psi and it does not ping at all until I get on boost about 5 times in a row i.e. two or three full throttle passes. Then I notice a faint indication of pinging. Of course I got out of it right away.
Sounds like everything is getting heat soaked.
I'm going to get the 7th injector hooked up soon and that should help, next is to try and rig up an intercooler.

[iamchappy]

I have the extra csv tapped to a 4lb hobbs switch I may not need to use the MSD retard unless I decide to pump up the boost a few lbs, did discover an oil leak on top of engine either oil breather or oil cooler, I just replaced the oil cooler seals when I had the engine out hard to believe there leaking from there but oil is pooling up from under the engine shroud around the oil breather and am dumping the turbo drain oil into the breather, I will get the car back on the lift and while I am at it deal with the tranny. I cant wait to get it out for another test drive.

[RarlyL8]

You'll be surprized how fast you get used to the quickness. Soon you will re-adjust your perseption of speed and be able to look at gauges while driving on momentary instinct. It is a fantastic rush though.
My 915 is also too short in first. Until I became used to it 2nd was a blur as well. If and when I build a tranny for this motor I'll only change 1st and 2nd gears. 3rd through 5 are just right. They all pull like a 2 stroke dirt bike.

[dean]

You can hold the brake with your left foot and go up hills to read gauges and what not.

[iamchappy]

I was able to put a few runs together today still with the short gears, the engine runs great other than I added a little to much oil during the oil change , a few puffs of smoke now and then.
I dont think the waste gate is letting go, I hear the bov let go between shifts but have not heard the wastegate open, on one run I saw 18lbs surprising no detonation no wastegate sound, when I short shift it I do it when it hits 9 or 10 lbs, the boost controller is tightened all the way in, Im sure I have the lines running out of the wastegate correctly. from the top of the wastegate to the side of the boost controller, the bottom line from the wastegate to a tee to the bottom nipple on the boost controller and intake before the throttle plate.
Do you think they screwed up and didn't get the right spring in there, I had ordered a .4 bar spring (6lbs) what do you think?
Lucky I haven't blown anything up yet, man is this car fast now.

[RickM]

The # pressure rating of a Tial spring should be color coded. The 0.4 (5.80 PSI) spring will be Red on a 38mm wastegate.

[iamchappy]

OK I just went out and removed the line on top of the wastegate and allowed it to vent to air, Took a test run the wastegate let go right on cue at 6lbs. big differance in performance compared to when I was
running it up past 9. I went back to Suters earlier posts and can see that the line running out of the boost controller runs into the intake pipe. Where is the line running from the top of the wastegate go. I had it hooked up like the diagram from tial shows in this picture. This was not working for me hooked up that way.

[iamchappy]

Well I got off the phone with Suter awhile back and got the hoses running where there suppose to be, The top fitting on the wastegate vents directly to air, so I ran the hose out the side of the boost controller to the intake, and the lower fitting on the wastegate to the bottom of the boost controller.
I turned the boost controller up about 3 turns and am running 9lbs. The engine runs great no problems, a/r with enrichment at 4lbs is running 13 to 12.5 rich.the Msd btm retard is set at 1.5.
I will leave everything as is for now, no need to push it up any further unless I decide to intercool. With the short gears the car really fly's.

[RarlyL8]

WoW!
That is really nicely done. How did you fab those boots in the truck that the tubes run through? Again - first class install and detail.

[Lukesportsman]

Love the details of the tubes and trunk trim. As good as OEM, but prettier

[ohecht]

After test fitting some turbos in my car, it seems that the oil drain will always be close to horizontal based on how high I can get the turbo related to the timing chain covers.

I would like to get a more efficient drain angle.

For those of you with the custom (and BAE) setups, how big of a slope were you able to get for the oil drain to the timing chain covers?

Olivier

[tsuter]

When the motor is running the oil pressure will push the oil thru just fine. I have seen people route the oil return down under and up to a fitting on the sump plate itself. That I don't like because for sure it will pool in the return hose after the motor is off. But maybe that doesn't matter. I can also see knocking it off on a speed bump.

As far as the chain cover goes, the fitting should go in the lower right corner. The return line will be horizontal at worst and slope down 10-15 degrees at best. The length is about 4.5 inches.

When the motor is off it will drain even if horizontal as the oil in the turbo and supply line is substantially higher. But I'm not sure it matters near as much as an appropriate shut down period if the car has been run hot.

[ohecht]

Thanks, tsuter. I have read a lot about problems caused by insufficient oil draining, and that has been one of my priorities to make sure my turbos are well cared for.

I am surprised the sump idea works at all. Bell's book is careful to point out, that even with more traditional oil pans, it is critical that the return be above the oil level in the pan and not submerged, so the oil does not get backed up in the lines during operation and blow through the seals in the turbo. I would think a line to the bottom of the sump plate would be even worse in those terms with the oil sitting right on top of the opening!

Unless the scavege pump could be made to actually help suck the oil through the line...

I can probably get to 10-15 degrees, I was just shocked at how high up the lowest portion of the timing chain covers suddenly seemed!

Olivier

[iamchappy]

I have been out of the loop for awhile as I was having an oil scavenge problem, oil was backing up into the turbo and made a mess of the exhaust system not to mention the smoke. Good thing, I found many exhaust sealing leaks around the exhaust manifolds and cross over attachment to the headers flange and was able to readjust 2 noisy valves that I didn't get right the first time around.
I am remaking the cross over pipe as the first was sort of a prototype and the new one will allow me to mount the turbo higher to help with the drain angle. I remounted the oil pump so that the lines are lower than the drain out of the turbo and plumbed the drain into the lower right valve cover.
I fabricated a 10-oz sump bowl that the turbo drains into, and thus allows the pump to scavenge from it and has enough room in it to let the oil settle a bit.
Before I was pumping the oil into the oil-breather line to the oil tank ,I didn't want to create more problems with crankcase ventilation due to all of the oil in the line, I am also going to place a oil breather inline to prevent any possibility of over-pressuring the crank case from blow-by on boost if there is any..
I want to make sure this time that the oil scavenge problem will be fixed so that I can keep the car on the road and not back on the lift.

[iamchappy]

I am up against a snag with my turbo oil leak, The word back from the rebuilders Turbo City, is the turbo checked out fine. I installed the Small Rayjay turbo I got from Tim today to see if it leaks also. Turbo City still believes it's a drain problem. When I get the rebuilt turbo back I will fabricate a larger drain to the sump. I cant believe the oil pump cant keep up with the oil drain it pumps 2 gpm and sucks oil like a shop vac. with the 3an oil feed line restricted down to 39mm it is hard to believe I am over supplying the turbo. I have seen on other posts a 9mm ball restricter in place at the oil sender where we tap for our oil feed. That restrictor solved another turbo oil leaking problem like mine. The other thing I will check is that I seem to run very high oil pressure about 100 psi, the relief springs may need attending to also.
Chime guys in if you have any helpful ideas.

[iamchappy]

Here are some ppictures of the sump and pump

[iamchappy]

I just fired up the car with the small turbo no leaking so far and I am not using the sump or restrictor. But my oil pressure is very high 100 to 140 range. Any clues?