|
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Installing new exhaust studs
I started some late winter projects this weekend which required removing my entire exhaust. Now I have 2 broken exhaust studs and 1 broken turbo stud, not cool :/ so anyways once I get these babies extracted and cleaned up I think I'll Try to replace all exhaust studs.
So for installing new exhaust studs should I be putting anti seize in the threads or something else? I don't want to run into this every time I drop my exhaust. Hopefully after I drop it this time it'll be the last time for a while.
__________________
Cheers, Chris 1986 951 SOLD: 1975 Carrera / 965 tribute w/ 1989 3.3 turbo 8.5:1, custom Evergreen K27 7200, 964 cams, euro CIS, TEC1 dual plug, rarlyL8 headers & hooligan pipe.
|
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,499
|
copper anti-seize
or nickel, nothing containing graphite for the stud/head threads Last edited by boosted79; 02-16-2016 at 05:09 AM.. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
That is going to be one heck of a job I would leave them in place.
|
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
I know I should leave them, but I know I'll feel much better getting this done and having all fresh fasteners.
__________________
Cheers, Chris 1986 951 SOLD: 1975 Carrera / 965 tribute w/ 1989 3.3 turbo 8.5:1, custom Evergreen K27 7200, 964 cams, euro CIS, TEC1 dual plug, rarlyL8 headers & hooligan pipe.
|
||
|
|
|
|
Diss Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: SC - (Aiken in the 'other' SC)
Posts: 5,022
|
Unless they are corroded so you can see they have eroded threads I wouldn't mess with them. Just get the bad studs replaced.
As mentioned before: Copper Antiseize. The aluminum based stuff is junk. But also: Get copper plated exhaust nuts. There is no comparison. And as the last little detail: Every time you do a valve adjustment take the time to loosen all the exhaust nuts a couple turns and retorque them. They will never seize if they are knocked loose every few thousand miles.
__________________
- "Speed kills! How fast do you want to go?" - anon. - "If More is better then Too Much is just right!!!" - Mad Mac Durgeloh -- Wayne - 87 Carrera coupe -> The pooch. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
that last tip is a good one.
OP, don;t go looking for trouble is the general consensus when talking exhaust studs. Unless you like pain that is.
__________________
1997 BMW M3 (race car) with S54 engine swap "The Rocket" 1984 Porsche 911 3.4 Carrera 1973 BMW 2002Tii 2016 Ford Focus RS |
||
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
+1 on copper antiseize and copper-plated nuts. The other tip is to go with M8 nuts that take a 12mm wrench instead of the standard 13mm. One mm doesn't sound like much, but it's so tight down there that it makes a difference.
__________________
Jeff Jensen 1973 911 |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Simi Valley, Ca.
Posts: 265
|
exhaust nuts
Think I have posted this before. Go to a Honda Dealer (purists chime in here) and get some of their exhaust bolts. 12mm hex with a flange. I used to scrounge thru the junk yards looking for interesting VW stuff, and noticed that there were Hondas there with 180,000 miles and the exhaust manifold nuts looked like they were brand new. So I would take 20 or 30 of them off each visit and filled up a bin for use on my VW engines. Simply put, they don't seem to ever rust. See pic of nuts with probably 150K miles.
Bob B
Last edited by NICE 69 S; 02-16-2016 at 05:42 PM.. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: venice ca
Posts: 928
|
the copper nuts for our exhaust have the m8 thread and take a 12mm socket.
leave them alone unless they break or are pulling out of the head. if you have to replace a stud, get the drill guide tool because they wont screw out
__________________
Jason 81 SC 97 328is 87 Jeep Comanche (RIP) |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Ok thanks for the tips and advice, maybe I will leave most of them as is.
__________________
Cheers, Chris 1986 951 SOLD: 1975 Carrera / 965 tribute w/ 1989 3.3 turbo 8.5:1, custom Evergreen K27 7200, 964 cams, euro CIS, TEC1 dual plug, rarlyL8 headers & hooligan pipe.
|
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Houston
Posts: 5,475
|
I went through this anguish not that long ago and going against the advice given by forum members I went ahead and replaced all my studs. I had three casualties during the removal but bought the Stomski kit to facilitate with the broken studs.
I certainly do not miss going through that whole riga-ma-role. ![]() ![]() Regards,
__________________
Ole Skool - wouldn't have it any other way |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,511
|
What's that about sleeping dogs?
__________________
https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
||
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
If the heads were off the engine that would be a different situation but on the engine and in the car you're asking for trouble.
|
||
|
|
|
|
911SC Tinkerer
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 769
|
Copper anti-seize. Just a drop will do ya.
Get a removal tool. Stomski is nice. I got one from A Quiet Boom here on Pelican, it worked great! Don't be scared to do this job. Its a nice piece of mind kind of feeling when its done knowing you have all new hardware installed. JUST GO SLOW!!! - Steve
__________________
-'83 911SC Coupe SSIs, Dansk GT3, EFI ITB, Instagram: @ Zinnmetallic_sc |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Don't break something that's not broken....
|
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Wait until it needs a valve job and have all of the studs replaced by the machine shop...
__________________
Gary R. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
I've sent many heads to a local machine shop and they didn't want to do it.
|
||
|
|
|
|
abit off center
|
Yea don't poke the bear!
__________________
______________________ Craig G2Performance Twinplug, head work, case savers, rockers arms, etc. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Exhaust studs......
|
||
|
|
|
|
Topless crazy
|
good point
|
||
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Rate This Thread | |
|
|