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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: NYC metro area
Posts: 55
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A/C issues
I was wondering if any of the aftermarket refrigerant sealers / re-fillers, will work on my system. Also, what's a good way to test if the compressor is coming on, I think it is, but want to be sure.
i'm familiar w/ the fact, that even if my car was new, its A/C is a far cry from a modern system, but on those rare occasions where I have to have the top on and don't want wind noise, I'd like it to pump out cooler. I drove for 2 hrs other day on highway w/ windows open and had a dam headache after it! lol
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'84 Targa: Duel output muffler, cat bypass, performance chip, cup airbox, P-Short throw, Euro H4s, Bilstein HDs, lowered torsion bars, strut tower brace, t-tie rod ends, etc. Last edited by Sargepug; 07-12-2016 at 08:21 AM.. |
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Registered
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Sarge... I've not heard good things about refrigerant sealers. Believe premise is they inhibit efficient cooling---Kuehl should confirm or deny. To check compressor... turn key to ignition on and turn AC on and off... you should hear clutch engaging and disengaging---clicking.
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Karl ~~~ Current: '80 Silver Targa w /'85 3.2. 964 cams, SSI, Dansk 2 in 1 out muf, custom fuel feed with spin on filter Prior: '77 Copper 924. '73 Black 914. '74 White Carrera. '79 Silver, Black, Anthracite 930s. |
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Member 911 Anonymous
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Don't use sealers on your system, it will clog up the condensers and evaporator. Locate the leaks and repair.
Open engine lid, set the temp setting to the lowest, turn on the car and ask a helper to turn the temp dial to the right slowly or highest while you what the clutch wheel, once it in engages, you will see the clutch engage. I would take the time to get a temp reading at center vents while you are at it. Are you using R12 or R134a? If R134a, try 80% of capacity to fill.
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'85 Carrera Targa Factory Marble Grey/Black * Turbo Tail * 930 Steering Wheel* Sport Seats * 17" Fuchs (r) * 3.4 * 964 Cams * 915 * LSD * Factory SS * Turbo Tie Rods * Bilsteins * Euro Pre-Muff * SW Chip on 4K DME * NGK * Sienes GSK * Targa Body Brace PCA/POC |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: NYC metro area
Posts: 55
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Thanks guys, I coincidentally had car into mechanic this am (not my Porsche specialist) for new set of BFG ZR Comp-2s. I had him go to rear and listen while I put it on, and sure enough compressor was working. He then checked the level under left fender and saw that the ball was low in the glass / needs to be filled up. Is that a good sign that ball was visable? Wouldn't leaks have evaporated it all and no ball can be seen? I believe it's charged w/ whatever came originally w/ the car, cause I have no records of it being changed over or recharged. The mechanic said he would have to look for that type of Freon, because it's basically illegal now and to get legal I have to convert system to the 134a. Again he's not my Porsche guy, just local Joe I go to for tires, and simple auto repairs. Does he sound correct, it's illegal, etc?
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'84 Targa: Duel output muffler, cat bypass, performance chip, cup airbox, P-Short throw, Euro H4s, Bilstein HDs, lowered torsion bars, strut tower brace, t-tie rod ends, etc. |
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Member 911 Anonymous
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R12, maybe in NYC, but it is not illegal, just need license to handle and dispose. Not cheap.
Note if OEM barrier hoses, they will leak. Apparentley was PAG intended design ![]()
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'85 Carrera Targa Factory Marble Grey/Black * Turbo Tail * 930 Steering Wheel* Sport Seats * 17" Fuchs (r) * 3.4 * 964 Cams * 915 * LSD * Factory SS * Turbo Tie Rods * Bilsteins * Euro Pre-Muff * SW Chip on 4K DME * NGK * Sienes GSK * Targa Body Brace PCA/POC |
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Registered
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To test if the compressor clutch can engage you don't need to run the motor.
Open the engine lid, put down the windows: Turn ignition key to the accessory position to the right, just before cranking position. 2 controls in your center console in front of the stick. Turn right control (evap blwr mtr) to the right, to its first fan speed so things are not that noisy. Turn left control (thermostat) clockwise to the right until you hear a click of the compressor clutch pulley turning in. If you don't hear it leave the thermostat fully to the right. Turn off the ignition key. Locate the ac compressor pulley, there is a hub in front of the pulley closest to the rear bumper. It should turn somewhat freely. Now, go back on set ignition key in accessory position again. And, go back to the compressor's outer hub. If the clutch is engaging you won't be able to turn it easily because the clutch magnet pulled it into the hub. As the boys said, stay away from leak sealants. You can still use R12 however you gotta find someone whom has it and in the end it will be wasting your money until you fix ALL the leaks.
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Kuehl 1987 911 cab, modified https://griffiths.com/ |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: NYC metro area
Posts: 55
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thanks all, but if I had serious leaks, would I still be able to see the ball in the sight glass? Maybe if I simply do a charge ever summer or so, i'll be fine. Top is off 90% of time in summer, so I really don't need too much from the system. Im hoping its a very slow leak or simply evaporation after so many years.
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'84 Targa: Duel output muffler, cat bypass, performance chip, cup airbox, P-Short throw, Euro H4s, Bilstein HDs, lowered torsion bars, strut tower brace, t-tie rod ends, etc. |
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Registered
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I believe the way the old 'ball' site glass worked was the ball floated when the drier had a level of refrigerant that would raise the ball. If the ball is not floating, it is at the bottom of the circle, then you do not have adequate refrigerant.
Not having an adequate amount of refrigerant in the system while the compressor is operating can be detrimental to the compressor. The compressor gets its lubrication when a mixture of refrigerant gas and refrigerant oil flow through it. If you don't have enough refrigerant you don't have enough oil flowing through the compressor and things wear down very quickly. When compressor's 'wear down' they start tossing debris (metal particles) through out the system. The cost in time and material to fix the debris problem can add up to a substantial amount of money. So, either fix the leak and properly charge the system or don't use it (unplug the compressor clutch wire).
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Kuehl 1987 911 cab, modified https://griffiths.com/ |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: NYC metro area
Posts: 55
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Quote:
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'84 Targa: Duel output muffler, cat bypass, performance chip, cup airbox, P-Short throw, Euro H4s, Bilstein HDs, lowered torsion bars, strut tower brace, t-tie rod ends, etc. |
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Registered
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Oh. I forgot.
We do not accept American Express.
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Kuehl 1987 911 cab, modified https://griffiths.com/ |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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It is not illegal by a long shot. It is a mild PITA to acquire and ONLY twice the price of individual cans at the local parts place if you buy through ebay. You will need to spend about $100 to re-juice your system. You also need to post here to find out how to do that. If your system has ANY cooling power currently, you do not have a leak that is worth looking into. If no cooling power. See kuehl's post.
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1981 911SC Targa Last edited by Bob Kontak; 07-13-2016 at 01:15 PM.. |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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Quote:
On a newer car that is worth $3,700, use an expensive sealer. The systems are more robust and can handle the degradation in performance and still keep you cool. No on the older 911.
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1981 911SC Targa |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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Quote:
Yes, 84 911's are mediocre but if functioning properly in the NYC area they only kind of suck. You will not have sweat dripping off the tip of you nose. I just wish there were more 911 peeps in my area. I could install kuehl equipment and be a hero. Two or three medium upgrades and a NYC driver would be golden.
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1981 911SC Targa |
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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: North TexASS
Posts: 18,533
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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Quote:
Wayne, NJ is just a hop, skip and jump from NYC.
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1981 911SC Targa |
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