Just another backdate; but this one is mine...

[Jonny042]

Originally Posted by dwelle

finish it!...

X 2

These are all great cars, fat ones, skinny ones, LWB, SWB, Longhoods, Impact Bumpers....

You are building a very desirable RSR-ish 76 911. That's right up near the top of many peoples "want" list.

[Tremelune]

How much? I think you might come out ahead. A widebody backdate chassis is more rare than a shorthood chassis or a 930 chassis, because they never existed from the factory...and it sure seems like a whole lot of people wish they did.

930s and M491s would be "easy" to convert, but they're at least $20k more than their narrow-body counterparts. The cost of getting a narrow-body impact-bumper car to be a widebody shorthood starts at $20k. People like me are willing to pay the cost, because...have you seen one? There's just no way around the cost (apart from cutting corners and having it look bad). The bodywork and paint are the hard part.

[Todd1]

Thanks for all the advice everyone. I’ve decided to forge ahead and continue with what I have.

Just a few small items to fix up before paint such as installing those little wedge shaped pieces that are required under the front corners of the hood for a backdate, cut the jacking points back a little now that I’ve deleted the rockers, fill in a few holes in the dash around the gauges (I’m going body colour here), and deleting many of the unnecessary holes in the front around the heater blower area.

Hey, what’s the standard with the “PORSCHE” graphics and stripes on the lower side of the car? Do most use decals? Seems a bit cheesy to me. I may just go with the clean look of no graphics or badges- maybe just some subtle stripes on the bumpers to simulate the rubber guards that came on the early cars...


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[Todd1]

Originally Posted by Tremelune

How much? I think you might come out ahead. A widebody backdate chassis is more rare than a shorthood chassis or a 930 chassis, because they never existed from the factory...and it sure seems like a whole lot of people wish they did.

930s and M491s would be "easy" to convert, but they're at least $20k more than their narrow-body counterparts. The cost of getting a narrow-body impact-bumper car to be a widebody shorthood starts at $20k. People like me are willing to pay the cost, because...have you seen one? There's just no way around the cost (apart from cutting corners and having it look bad). The bodywork and paint are the hard part.

Tremelune, that green car is amazing. Is that the “Turkish Green” from the early 70’s cars?? I’m considering that for an accent colour on mine.

[Todd1]

live with the turbo look. I’m cutting off the rear fenders, removing the fronts and bumpers, and putting the entire “turbo look kit” up for sale. My new front fenders, used SC rear quarters, and bumpers are being shipped as I type this. I still need to sort out bumpers.

Yes I’m crazy, but If I’ve gone this deep I may as well get what I want. If anyone wants to “one-stop-shop” a turbo look, this stuff will be for sale as soon as I get my new fenders and cut these ones off. I could probably box everything up for shipping in June. I’ll be as liberal as possible cutting off the rears but they won’t be including the tail lights.

I think I threw up a little bit into my mouth when I did the math on this mistake...

[mikedsilva]

Originally Posted by Todd1

live with the turbo look. I’m cutting off the rear fenders, removing the fronts and bumpers, and putting the entire “turbo look kit” up for sale. My new front fenders, used SC rear quarters, and bumpers are being shipped as I type this. I still need to sort out bumpers.

Yes I’m crazy, but If I’ve gone this deep I may as well get what I want. If anyone wants to “one-stop-shop” a turbo look, this stuff will be for sale as soon as I get my new fenders and cut these ones off. I could probably box everything up for shipping in June. I’ll be as liberal as possible cutting off the rears but they won’t be including the tail lights.

I think I threw up a little bit into my mouth when I did the math on this mistake...

Brave man
I guess in the beginning, you wanted the wide look.. so went for it.. but for whatever reason now your tastes have changed. I just hope that they don't change again before it gets closer to completion!

[Todd1]

Hey, can anyone identify all these attach points in my engine bay? I’m trying to tidy it up before paint so anything that I can delete here?


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[RennSC]

Originally Posted by Todd1

Hey, can anyone identify all these attach points in my engine bay? I’m trying to tidy it up before paint so anything that I can delete here?


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the first photo is where the fuel filter attaches with a metal band. not sure the bottom photo.

-thierry

[Todd1]

No turning back now. Wide body fender/flare “kit” complete with front and rear bumpers soon to be for sale

[Flojo]

Originally Posted by RennSC

the first photo is where the fuel filter attaches with a metal band. not sure the bottom photo.

-thierry

no. US Carbon Filter attachment.
I deleted mine, cut the flaps off, grinded down and plugged the hose Exit on the airbox.

[Todd1]

Hey, so that’s “E” that you guys are talking about?

[Todd1]

Feeling quite relieved. The rears are looking really good now and I’m super happy about the decision to switch to the narrower look.

[Todd1]

I purchased two new fenders from Restoration Design. They’re excellent quality, but there’s lots of fitting work to do with gaps against the doors. Still waiting for my steel long hood to arrive but it looks like the hood to fender gaps are going to need plenty of attention too.

[JB]

From your engine compartment photo, point C is a chassis ground stud. Points B would mount the fuel filter. Points A, D and another towards the rear mount the rear electrical panel. Don't delete any of these. Point E is for a carbon canister used for emission vapors in the '76 and can be removed.

[Discseven]

Fine art Todd. Am enjoying your journey immensely!

[Todd1]

Thanks for the information JB. I’ve done exactly as you suggest.

Originally Posted by JB

From your engine compartment photo, point C is a chassis ground stud. Points B would mount the fuel filter. Points A, D and another towards the rear mount the rear electrical panel. Don't delete any of these. Point E is for a carbon canister used for emission vapors in the '76 and can be removed.

[Todd1]

Well, I've read many threads about these fibreglass bumpers and the way they fit so poorly, so after much consternation and research I decided to go with Getty Design bumpers. They arrived and after unboxing them, we quickly realized that although they were the "right bumper" for the car, they weren't close to fitting properly. I guess what it comes down to is how picky you are about the final product. Sure, these could have "fit" with a lot less mucking around than you're about to see, but what's the point in going half way. Anyway, here's the rough fit out of the box. You can see how these are much wider than the RS/SC flares that I have on the car. Mark from Getty Design insists that they are the correct bumpers and that my tub is incorrect. Hmm. I must admit that these bumpers are good quality, but they simply do not fit.



And these next two pics are of the bumpers "flexed" into position as was suggested by Getty Design. This distorts the whole bumper and although I could have drilled some holes and got everything mounted, it would have looked terrible and after a few miles it would have been so full of cracks and stress fractures that there would have been a trail of fibreglass trailing behind me on the road.

Anyway- they say that they all need "massaging" into place, but these suckers needed open-heart surgery- not just massaging.




So it was time to slice and dice this thing. Richard sectioned each corner and "narrowed" the bumper so that it would fit perfectly without any stress or flexing. He also glassed over the standard drain cutouts as I want to keep my options open for the exhaust once I get to that point and not be committed to the single drain out the rear left side.





Here's the final product. Lots of itchy work but it's worth it in the end!

[Todd1]

While the bumper was happening I did a little clean up on my brake callipers. After cleaning them up and talking to the guys at PMB brakes, I decided to order new/overhauled ones along with all the new lines hard and soft as well as master cylinder. I can hardly wait to start putting all this stuff together. It's going to take a while since my real world job takes up almost all of my time at the moment.

[Todd1]

After the work on the rear of the car, Richard moved shifted his attention to the front of the car. I purchased a steel long hood that was reported to be in good condition, and to our pleasant surprise it was! Thanks to Shaun at True 6 for the really really great service getting the hood crated and shipped- and not overstating the condition of the hood. There were some very minor repairs to the corners, however all the seams were tight and no swelling or any serious rust.


And chemical stripped



And prepped

[Todd1]