Hideous Dashboard Restoration Attempt.

[rennch]

While the car is in the paint shop, I decided to take a stab at recovering my dashboard. The previous owner had installed one of those awful plastic covers, and I wasn't sure what to expect when I removed it. Unfortunately he glued it down with liquid nails, and already tough job even worse. So, here is my attempt to restore this dashboard. It may not work, but I'm going to give it a shot.

First I have to work on removing the glue and just get down to bare vinyl.

Then, I have to work on structural integrity by epoxying the dash back together.

Then I've got to fill the giant foam holes (suggestions wanted!) with something, fix the mounting tabs, smooth the dash out with filler, and finally re-cover with leather or 4 way vinyl.

Wish me luck. And all tips welcome.

Gross pictures below.
















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[DaveMcKenz]

Hi Michael.
I don't know a nice way to say this, but I think you should consider finding a replacement dash. What you have left is close to beyond repair. Anything can be fixed given enough time and money, but you might be way ahead going another route.
Good luck,
Dave

[john walker's workshop]

All I can say is Lakewell.

[dg567]

Order a Lakewell ASAP and hopefully you'll have it before you have to put the car back together.

[rennch]

Thanks for the advice. I'm going in. After an hour with a heat gun, the glue is 99% gone.









I found a good set of YouTube videos that gives me a bit of hope. Next step, epoxy for structural integrity.

https://youtu.be/1QcxmFGZoJQ


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[DaveMcKenz]

Nice improvement. Just maybe...
Good luck,
Dave

[drcoastline]

WOW, that is a shame. Good luck with the restoration. Just a thought but you may want to put the dash back in the car before you start making any rigid structural repairs. I would hate to see you do all this work and then it won't lay flat

[rennch]

Originally Posted by drcoastline

WOW, that is a shame. Good luck with the restoration. Just a thought but you may want to put the dash back in the car before you start making any rigid structural repairs. I would hate to see you do all this work and then it won't lay flat

Good call!


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[timmy2]

High density minimal expanding foam for sealing cracks in homes works well for the foam replacement. Sand and then smooth with rubber bumper filler.
Worked on mine.

[Bill Douglas]

The distress look is all the rage in furniture, but I don't think it's quite there for dashboards, just yet.

[JohnJL]

The bottom of this page Torsional Rigidity Measurement...warning pseudoscience involved has some pics of how I did it. I think I forgot to take pics of the final padding and Alcantara installation.

After these pics I layed 2 layers of fiberglass mat and skimmed with bodyfiller to make the dash surface flat as bodywork. Then 1/8" open-celled automotive upholstery foam, then the alcantara.

[Slowroller]

Wow this is amazing, with all the great products out there he used Liquid Nails.
My 73 came with a cover and I've been afraid to see what lies beneath... After seeing this I think I'll wait a little longer to find out lol.
Good luck with the restore and thanks for posting.

[drcoastline]

slowroller as emptyo unfortunately found out a little late, a heat gun will relax the liquid nails enough to remove the overlay with out damage to the dash board. This method is used to loose glues of all types including epoxies in furniture restoration. Heat the cover and slowly lift with your hand, but do not pull. Let the heat relax the glue. Your are only applying enough tension so the cover lifts as the glue relaxes at it's own rate.

[Cory M]

Patina!

[rennch]

Originally Posted by drcoastline

slowroller as emptyo unfortunately found out a little late, a heat gun will relax the liquid nails enough to remove the overlay with out damage to the dash board. This method is used to loose glues of all types including epoxies in furniture restoration. Heat the cover and slowly lift with your hand, but do not pull. Let the heat relax the glue. Your are only applying enough tension so the cover lifts as the glue relaxes at it's own rate.

Yea, that would have been the smart play. Live and learn!


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[drcoastline]

emptyo- I know there are several recommendations on what to use to fill and repair the gauges and cracks and will probably work. I would suggest however, after you reinstall the dash. It doesn't have to be perfectly installed but close enough to get the shape needed. I would suggest repairing with a thickened epoxy such as West System six/10 which is pre-thickened or System 3's T-88. You will need to thicken the T-88. You can run a belt sander across a piece oak for a minute or so to create all the sanding dust you will need to thicken. Thicken to about the consistency of peanut butter. The thickened epoxies will do two things, glue the pieces together and also build up the surface. Both epoxies can easily be sanded to shape and another layer added over top to build thickness if needed. The other benefit is they will not attack the foam as could happen with some other products that may contain acetone or similar.

[rennch]

Originally Posted by drcoastline

emptyo- I know there are several recommendations on what to use to fill and repair the gauges and cracks and will probably work. I would suggest however, after you reinstall the dash. It doesn't have to be perfectly installed but close enough to get the shape needed. I would suggest repairing with a thickened epoxy such as West System six/10 which is pre-thickened or System 3's T-88. You will need to thicken the T-88. You can run a belt sander across a piece oak for a minute or so to create all the sanding dust you will need to thicken. Thicken to about the consistency of peanut butter. The thickened epoxies will do two things, glue the pieces together and also build up the surface. Both epoxies can easily be sanded to shape and another layer added over top to build thickness if needed. The other benefit is they will not attack the foam as could happen with some other products that may contain acetone or similar.

I've never heard of thickening epoxy that way. That is some ninja sh#t @drcoastline! Thanks.


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[drcoastline]

Originally Posted by emptyo

I've never heard of thickening epoxy that way. That is some ninja sh#t @drcoastline! Thanks.


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No problem. Google it. Thickened epoxy is used on cold molded and foam core boat building. I recommended oak because it is easy to get an old chunk but you could use just about anything. There are commercial additives as well but for the little bit you are doing they will be expensive. All the thickening will do in your application is give the epoxy some body so it won't sag until it sets up. You can do with out but then you will need to apply multiple layers. Thickening will save you time.

[Chuchuf]

Yes I used West 205 on mine to fill in the cracks and holes, and applied just enough to get it up to the surface height again. I would think that the sawdust would be OK to thicken but I used milled fiber (flox) and cabosil to thicken mine as I had the materials on hand.
After letting that harden for about 2 days, sanded so that it had the right shape with the dash and then bondo to fill in the small voids left.
Oh and anyplace the dash was cracked through to the back I also ass some of that splooge mixture on the back side by the cracks.

I think this dash can be repaired.

Terry

[rennch]

Originally Posted by Chuchuf

Yes I used West 205 on mine to fill in the cracks and holes, and applied just enough to get it up to the surface height again. I would think that the sawdust would be OK to thicken but I used milled fiber (flox) and cabosil to thicken mine as I had the materials on hand.
After letting that harden for about 2 days, sanded so that it had the right shape with the dash and then bondo to fill in the small voids left.
Oh and anyplace the dash was cracked through to the back I also ass some of that splooge mixture on the back side by the cracks.

I think this dash can be repaired.

Terry

I think so too! And if not...I'll get another one.