This website is pretty poor, but the info is fantastic:

FUSES

There's a good chart of wire gauge and maximum fuse sizes a bit down the page.

16awg - 7.5A
14awg - 15A
12awg - 20A
10awg - 30A

I hesitate to take on a 2K+ poster, but why so negative on the site. This is by far the best 911 tech forum on the World Wide Web. Everything can be improved. Perhaps we need to start a separate thread on how to improve it.

If you're talking to me, I was referring to bcae1.com as a pretty poor website. Looks like it was designed in the 90s. Great source of info, though.

As an aside, post count does not elevate anyone above asshat if they are, in fact, an asshat. A lot of us just love to hear ourselves talk...

LOL I wasn't doing a very good job of tracking the thread! PEACE.

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Electrical inquisition

Being a self-proclaimed electro-idiot… appreciate Treme egging this arena on. Link Treme provided is informing... thanks T. Am following up on system’s electric config now to get it sorted both physically & mentally. Charts are for ref.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1508340824.jpg
Chart from Treme link.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1508340824.jpg EDIT: Poor reference as wire thickness visuals are not in comparrative scale.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1508340824.jpg

Am mentioning again that it's too convoluted to get into why wire gauge, ESC amps and all the other bit rating’s were chosen as they are. What’s important is where config goes and what new smarts are had along the way. Of course goal is to set electrical up correctly…but… rather than perfection, target is an operative system that is allowed to push limits to a sensible degree. Point = am not thrilled to re-cable the car at this stage!---unless it’s absolutely necessary. Can this be sensibly done is one question.

Here’s specs on hand:

• Brushless turbine rating = 16.5 amps (YouTube vid amp test shows around 17.)
• ESC = 40 amp.
• Arduino = 5v supplied by ESC with 26awg between those units---that’s factory wire (not mine.)
• ByPass switch is 250v AC rated for 3amps. In 12v environment, this (I believe) is suitable for 17amps.
• Relay = 40 amps.
• Cable (installed) from ESC to brushless turbine = 16awg 3-wire, approx 12 feet.
• Power wire from 911 fuse panel to relay = 16awg, approx 3 feet (not installed)
• Fuses = ?

My perspective… And you’re welcome to critique, add, etc.:

16 awg cable of about 12 feet is borderline to specs calling for 14awg. When system is in operation, will hand-check cable/wires for heat. If there’s reason to change cable out… will do it. (I hold electrical specs given by manufacturers having to be far within a safe range for liability purposes. This means fudging with specs… is OK to a limited degree AISI.)

Fuse: Looking at both charts above and below, and while system could have 14 awg wires, am thinking 10 amp fuse to start with. Take a look at “opening time” below. Littelfuse specs advise their 10 amp fuse can stand 110% of its rating for 100 hours. Whether that 100 hours is per operation-cycle or total-cumulative = unknown. Does this suggest that an even lower amp fuse should/could be used!?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1508340824.jpg
From Littelfuse technical specs doc:
http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/automotive/datasheets/fuses/passenger-car-and-commercial-vehicle/blade-fuses/littelfuse_atof_datasheet.pdf
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You are correct that not all wire of the same gauge and fuses of the same rating are created equal. You're at the limits of my knowledge with regard to the speed at which a fuse will blow due to a particular current running through it. I'm mainly just looking to prevent fires in a fire-prone car...My perspective also comes from the car audio and auxiliary lighting industry where overkill to minimize voltage drop in the name of performance is the norm.

If given the choice between re-wiring and giving it a conscientious whirl...I'd probably just give it a whirl.

With you re fire & whirl.

Revisiting Airspeed

Prior air speed tests lacked consistency and so clarity. With lingering chit insight in this area... am revisiting to gain genuine clarity.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1508511788.JPG

Complete duct ahead of turbine is connected. This includes intake stack with filter & air valve. For this test, CEET section is NOT curved (as it would be when installed above wheel.)


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1508511788.JPG

Moving anemometer around---as was done when hand-holding it during prior test---not happening here. Battery is also fully charged. Concerning voltage, low volts do result in diminished turbine thrust as ESC (Electronic Speed Controller that runs brushless/turbine motor) compensates when volts begin to run low. Must bear in mind that ESC is designed for RC flight applications. In that environment, rather than flight motor cutting OFF when there’s inadequate battery power, ESC reduces power to brushless motor during flight---extending flight time---allowing RC pilots time to land ahead of complete motor cut-OFF. 12v motorcycle battery (that gets recharged on trickle charger) is used when bench testing system. Don’t know if low volts affected prior air-speed tests but possibility exists.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1508511788.JPG

Obvious variables = anemometer in air-stream, no bend in CEET, no back-pressure from air-bucket & condenser. With these in mind, point here is to get a clear understanding of where’s air-speed’s at under test conditions given. (Turbine’s set to run at 80% speed/capacity.)


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1508511788.JPG

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This thread as far as creativity, innovation and expertise goes is off the hook! Thanks for taking on this AC journey of yours.

HA! Great you see it his way Roke! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif Diving into a creative build is always a fine journey one way or another. Encountering and dealing with new things... solving puzzles... all good creative fodder.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1508541038.JPG

Bypass switch. (Matches 2 switches previously installed in AC controller.) Where this switch goes has yet to be decided.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1508541038.JPG

Considered redoing Arduino-ESC-relay set-up but am going with “bundle.” Reason: Arduino already has slots on back side to mount unit on slip-screws. Six-wire junction (white) allows quik-disconnect for all positive wires. 2 ground wires (black) …will do quik-disconnect to chassis near bundle.

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Going to Outback. Returning mid Nov.

Anyone giving you a hard time about this thread - this experiment - has no class whatsoever. Thanks for letting us watch your experiment - and thanks for all the details!

Gather you noticed my comment in regard to the critical commentary I received. Thanks for taking the time to "support the cause"Dave. Is much appreciated! :)

Was away a few weeks. Now have some matters to attend this coming week. After those affairs are attended, will begin what should be final leg of this build.

Hi Karl its been awhile howdy

Nice job on your descriptions of this project and all your work you have put into it

Been a while indeed Kel... thanks for commentary. Diving back into project tomorrow. Will post progress in a few days.

Welcome back from your extended vaycay, Karl.

For your listening pleasure, bro.

<iframe width="854" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/tNNmZFhCvH4" frameborder="0" gesture="media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="854" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/G1G9D8A4Fiw" frameborder="0" gesture="media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

The MASTER tune picker you are RonO. Love that chit... especially the turbine powered bag pipe program. And thanks for welcoming back from vacay---was fine journey to places never seen befo. Now it's back in the saddle :D Hope alls well with ya!

All good here, KinkyKarl.

I knew you would enjoy the turbo powaaa' bagpipes song - that band is really something else!