Glue hatch window to frame

[Razorback1980]

My 87 hatch window just started leaking water around the frame, what type of adhesive do you use to glue the window back to the frame? The right hand mirror (just the actual mirror glass) also came unattached from the mirror, anybody know the best way to attach it back?

[OnTheRun2]

As far as your hatch glass. I know some people have had some luck re-gluing the glass back in, but you would just be buying time. It will come loose again. Your best bet is to find a used hatch and replace it.

Now regluing the mirror is much easier. Go to any auto glass shop, tell them your problem. And for a few dollers they will be able to fix it for you. Yes you could buy the glue and fix it yourself, but you don't need very much of the stuff. And it's not cheep. Not to mention that the proper glue is very messy to deal with. I have used it and ended up with it all over me.

Good Luck

[Tim Hancock]

I have redone a hatch, but is is a big job that takes a lot of careful work and proper materials. Basically you completely diassemble the glass from the alum frame then remove the old black window glue (you should probably etch/alodine/prime/paint any exposed aluminum from the glue removal process. Separating the glass from the frame is very diificult to do with breaking the glass. Once everthing is cleaned up, you need to use 3m glass primers (#08683 then #08684) then 3m windo-weld super fast urethane #08609.

When I first research this, I determined that any thing less than what I did, would not result in a lasting repair. This job is pretty high up the DIY difficulty scale. Used hatches will all eventually suffer the same delamination as the UV light breaks down the original bond and eventually all hatches will begin separating at some point.

The best procedure I found on-line back when I did mine was at 924.org/techsection. If it is still there, it details basically what I did.

good luck

[Razorback1980]

I think you are right Tim, getting a used hatch will do the same thing, it seems to be a common problem for these cars. I'll check out that link and see what it says and go from there. I probably should take it to a professional but I'm just too stubborn, foolish, or arrogant enough to think I can fix anything so I'll probably attempt it myself. If I don't have any luck, I'll follow the advice of OnTheRun2 and buy another one. Thanks again everyone.

[hughett]

I used 3m windo-weld super fast urethane #08609. Black, really nasty stuff, use lots of rags and 3m adhesive remover. I took a chance and scraped all the paint between the glass and the frame off as I could (my was only delaminated at the top) and then cleaned the area with acetone and various degreasers...then I did the unthinkable, I flexed the glass away from the frame with the wooden part of wooden clothes pins that I'd taken apart (BTW, I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS). And then I used a caulk gun to force as much of the urethane adhesive into the crack/opening (both sides). used was paper to keep wrong stuff from sticking...and let it dry. It's worked great for nearly a year even though I wasn't able to get urethane all the way through opening I'd made. It worked for me but I was willing to take a chance on braking the rear deck glass. I didn't like the idea of "sawing" the other 3/4 of the glass adhesive lose and redoing the whole window. While that would be preferable, I KNOW I'd have broken the glass then! So, I took my chances and it worked out great for me. I wouldn't reccommend any adhesive other thang 3m windo-weld super fast urethane #08609 since it grips like the devil herself. Nasty stuff to clean off glass or carpet or body parts so be ready with lots of cleaner and drop cloths. I'd do it again. I also sealed the entire perimeter of the glass on the inside and outside with a fine bead that I smoothed out with my finger since the tube was large. I don't think I'll ever see a leak there again.

Harvey

[Razorback1980]

Sounds pretty close to what I had in mind. I've used that 3M window adhesive you are talking about and you are right about it being nasty sticky stuff and that was the first thing to come to my mind, but I thought I would ask the group and see what has worked for everyone. thanks for the advice. Instead of the clothes pin, I'm going to try something but I don't know what yet.

Thanks again

[Tim Hancock]

For the adhesive to stick as it was designed to, the glass primers should be used first. I have watched a professional auto glass installer prep a new windshield that he was installing on my BMW and he applied a clear primer to the glass before gluing it to the car with the sticky black stuff.

That said, what Harvey did seems like a pretty good stop gap procedure if the glass has not slid too far out of position with the aluminum frame.

[Razorback1980]

I'll look and see if I can find some of the primer. Probably at a windshield shop somewhere? Thanks Tim.

[Tim Hancock]

I ordered mine from autopaint supply store. they had never heard of it and thankfully I had the 3M part numbers to spoon feed them. If you do not go all the way with this job, I doubt it would be worth trying to apply the primers as you will not be able to get into the crack properly/cleanly. Harvey's method above is probably as good as you are going to get without going all the way. Google the 3M adhesive and primer part #s listed above and you may find more info on using the product itself along with places to buy it.

[Grog]

I'm right in the middle of regooping my rear window. I stopped at a glass shop and they sold me some urathane stuff from Dow chemicals that does not need primer, says right on the tube. You just have to wash the surfaces with soap and rinse well (no amonia glass cleaner). They also told me to heat up the tubes before using, not to wear any clothes that I want to keep, don't get the stuff near the car, he said to be careful of because if you use too much you can get the chuncks off but never all of it off the glass, and to run a bead on the inside also. Was only $7.50 a tube.
My hands are sore from digging out the old goop and I'm not even half way done.

[VaSteve]

Can a glass shop do this job? They have to be able to do it, like if the glass got cracked. I know for the 911 Targas, the don't like to....maybe this is the same deal?

[Razorback1980]

For the right amount of money, anyone will do the job. But I'm cheap and besides I like working on them myself if it doesn't have to be done in the morning to drive to work. Hate that pressure. This is my daughter's car and she doesn't need it until October when she turns sixteen, so I can take my time and go completely through it making it as close to perfect as my imperfect work can get it. Thanks for all the tips and help guys and if anyone has clues on how best to separate the glass and frame, I'm listening.

[Grog]

The first glass shop I talked to thought you had to buy the rear window with the frame attached at the factory, and would not do the job. I did not ask the second place where I got the goop, but he said he would not attempt to remove the frame, just bead the inside, dig out what you can on the outside and regoop. After digging at the outside for 2 days and being less than halfway I have given up any thoughts of removing the frame. The stuff on there may be old and loose on the outer side, but the back side is on there good. I thought about using a wire, don't think I could get it through. Its not like a windshield where the goop is thick, you have around 1/8 inch with a 90 degree on one end, with 0 clearance in some spots. I bought one of those flat, flexable wood cut of saws, real thin, it might go in there and you could saw off the inside sealant, but I think the sawing would destroy your rear defroster wires, and scratch the glass. I asked th eguy if heat would help, he said the amount of heat required to help would more likely cause the glass to break and ruin the frame before the goop would get soft. What the hell is that stuff? and if its so hard to get off why is it leaking.


You can see where the glass has pulled away on the upper corners, It's almost like the glass has moved down to the bottom. On the bottom the glass is so close to the frame I can't even get a razer into some parts. In some places where I have dug out the goop water squirts out and its dirty under the sealant.

Well, time to go work on the window.

[Razorback1980]

Sounds like about what everyone else was saying....IT AIN'T EASY! I was hoping for some sort of chemical or magic trick that might melt the stuff and make it easy to remove. Kind of like super glue remover or something. Doesn't sound like much exists in that area.

[Tim Hancock]

It took me at least one full weekend. The upper corners had pulled too far to attempt another patch so I bit the bullet and had at it with razor blades and a thin sharpened spatula. (First you have to remove the outer trim which was difficult to pry/work off without deforming badly.) It was miserable work and had my whole upper section been still partially glued, I may not have been succesful working my way down.

I did this to my '77 which at the time was also being prepped for my "teen daughter about to start driving". It had been leaking water and fumes not to mention that the whole assembly had sagged so low, that the hatch latch pins would barely go into the locks.

I just picked up another white 924 (1987 924S) to move daughter #1 into since daughter #2 is about to start driving also (she gets the slower '77 for now). Good thing I like working on 20-30 yr old cars!!

If I think of it, I will post a couple pics I may have from when I did it.

[hughett]

"After digging at the outside for 2 days and being less than halfway I have given up any thoughts of removing the frame."

That's why I didn't try...and just glued the top part. I knew 3/4 of the glass was NEVER going to move so I just made sure that it didn't leak...and I think what I did will hold for a long time. We'll see. 1 year and counting.

Harvey

[Grog]

About 3/4 around the outside now. I dug the old goop out of the top. Almost the whole top has come unglued from the glass. I see 2 things that could have happened. #1 The sun has ruined the goop on top, the only place that isn't coverd up buy rubber spoiler. #2 The sun ruined the black stuff painted on the window that the goop was stuck too, because mine is all but gone. The whole top is loose except for the part that was covered by the 3rd brake light, that is still holding strong.
I took apart my 6 ft. tape measure (the metal tape part) and pushed it through the top, got it all the way across with a sawing action, but I could not get it through the middle where the brake light was. Broke the tape about 5 times. If the rest of the goop that was unaffected by the sun is the same, it will never come off. I was really hopeing to remove the glass from the frame. I'm giving up on that, again.

Got to work the next 5 days, more updates later.

[krahm]

Is this a typo?! I've been thinking about this problem for a while. After reading this thread, I did a search on Pelican to see what a new hatch would cost. Just curious. They came up with the following price: $5,307.64.

That's what I paid for my CAR!

[Tim Hancock]

Here are the only pics I could find of my hatch reseal project.

First two pics show frame temporarily re-installed to provide a solid way to scrape at the old glue with a razor blade and a sharpened scraper.

The third pic shows the glass being masked off after an extensive cleaning. The 08683 clear primer goes on next, followed by the black 08684 (both are water thin and come in tiny metal containers which you use very little of). The black primer leaves the black perimeter that you see peeling off of old hatches. After the frame and glass are cleaned and prepped, you reinstall the frame on the car then apply the 3M 08609 sealant to the recess in the frame. Next you carefully set the glass on the car and wipe off any excess that oozes out on the outside (if you put the right amount on, the excess on the inside will only ooze slightly out onto the black primer you previously applied which will appear basically like the factory applied job).

After curing, you remove the whole deal and reinstall the metal trim strips (after you cleaned then painted or powder coated of course!). Mine came out beautiful and thus far has held up perfect after 2 years of outdoor parking and use.



Here is a pic of daughter #1 returning from her driving test with a perfect score in the old non power steering, stick shift '77 924.

[Razorback1980]

Hey Krahm,

Yeah, that's more than twice what I paid for the 87. I'm thinking that option is out. Amazing, isn't it. I'm sure with the help everyone has given me here, I'll get it done somehow. If you see someone looking for one on ebay or the parts forums, that's probably me cuz I broke the window! Thanks again for all the help y'all.