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Well done!!
If I understand your painful experience, you have removed 2 pan hed (hex) bolts from the sensor. You have also taken one sensor out intact and the other is in the picture. If this is true, the sensor bracket should come out. I do not have a picture to explain, so words will have to do. The sensor needs to be pryed away from the block about a 1/4 inch to clear a fulcrum/tube it pivots on along with the drivers side screw you just removed. OK, block, fulcrum/tube,bracket and screw goes inside the hole where the fulcrum is. Anyway, wiggle the sensor bracket up and down as if you were going to set the gap, and then use a screwdriver to pry the bracket away from the block. This should work with the broken piece in. Gentley. GL John_AZ |
ok, heres the other thing that happened to me in my sensor removal escapade. After I chiseled the bracket in half, after breaking out the rearmost sensor, reference), and not being able to get the drivers side bolt out of the bracket......( id did this chiseling because some peeps on the board said I would have metal fragments/ wires on the flywheel if I totally destroyed the sensor)
i discovered that....., there is a small extension or a pivot, or ferrule, (as mentioned above) that means you must pry the bracket rearwards about 1/4 inch ) to get the bracket out.... of course, both mounting bolts must be out of the block. After John sent me the new bracket, and I polished it all up shiny on the outside, and smoothy on the insides where the new sensors slide in.......I found that there is a small aluminum sleeve that surrounds the sensor distal to the rubber seal...... which sensor has this aluminum tube extension.....well, my old one had it on the reference sensor, the rear one, and that appears to be why it would not slide out for me, rusty inside the aluminum tube extension. the one I got from John had the aluminum tube on the forwardmost bracket hole. I ended up having to cut off the aluminum extension ,with hacksaw, that extended to the flywheel in order to "clear" the pivot ferrule on the block . The bracket would not go down into the hole, and then onto the ferrule without hammering it in, which would mishape the aluminum tube that the frontmost sensor later slides into. (thats why I had to polish the insides of the aluminum tube, someone had tried to force it in before, by the marks on it) It works, but I think that there may be different sensor brackets out there. I saw no real reason for the aluminum extension tube in either position, other than maybe shielding the sensor shaft from the elements in the housing. |
You cannot see this pivot, but it is inside and alongside the lower of the two bracket mounting bolts in the picture posted by JohnAZ on the previous page. It slides into the bracket, and then surrounds the bolt itself.
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Inspect it when you get it apart, and you will see that the two bracket mounting holes (one is oblong and bigger =the pivot, and one is round= the tightener downer)) are actually two different sizes to accomodate this pivot sleeve.
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AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!
*sigh* i needed that well i just came back from taking a look and the "thingy" that i was referring to is the "fulcrum/tube" i thought it was part of the bracket but turns out its part of the block well now I'm wondering can i just cut a little piece of of it so i can slide the bracket up or is that going to be a bad thing if i do, the speed sensor is broken and stuck in there for good so it inst coming out, I'm going to try pry and wiggle method John_AZ is talking about but if cutting it doesn't damage anything important it would be my next option if the pry and wiggle doesn't work. I bought this little saw thats just itching to cut something up;) http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c7...x/IMG_1543.jpg Thanks everyone for all the help and info, i think i would've rolled the car off a bridge by now |
i would pry it out carefully, and if you hurt the fulcrumb part, just replace it with a bolt that has a collar on it, or just a small sleeve slid over the new bolt. OR USE THE CHISEL!! LOL, THE HUMAN ALWAYS WINS!!
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IT IS ONLY ABOUT 1/4 INCH LONG, SO YOU CAN PROBABLY FORCE THE SENSOR AND BRACKET PAST IT. go ahead, if you bend it, you can round it out with a punch, or cut it off and use a collared bolt or sleeve. Once it is off the car, a smile will cross your face.
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dont forget that there are 3 sensors in that bracket on mine, andother one is farther down toward the drivers side, try to remove it before destroying it as you force the bracket out!!
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Look at John_AZ pix again, and you can see the other sensor. I think that that one senses that you are trying to work on the car, and accelerates the self destruction mode on the DME computer.LOL
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Never send a small hacksaw to do a large cold chisels job!
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I'm gonna try that now, my concern was that part of the bottom of the sensor would break and drop down, then i would have to dismantle everything so i'm being as careful as possible. I'll keep you guys posted when i return i should either have some good or bad news
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The chisel is used in the same plane as the bolt shaft, it must be sharp, and use a large balpein hammer, and eye protection. The aluminum is soft, to it splits a little, then cracks int large pieces. You won't break it into small pieces, just chunks, finish it off with controlled demolition of a large screwdriver.
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There he goes, driving around the block!!!! great work!!
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ok so as of right now I'm in a lot of pain first was my pinky finger on my right hand then some other area of my left hand and still the bracket sits in place i tried the wiggle and pry, and the chisel between the block and bracket to put some pressure on it and nothing, I'm going to cut the stupid :mad:fulcrum/tube:mad:.
John_AZ i tried gently and not so gently:( |
mine still had a bolt in it when i cut it with the chisel. i cut it just to the left (as you lay from the front of the car towards the cowl) of center of the right bolt, it is the thinnest there, i did not wat to mess up the block area, so i carefully placed the chisel across the bracket and split it, top of the bolt hole, then bottom of the bolt hole. did you get that third sensor out fiirst?
collect the cuttings so they do not end up on the flywheel, or you have to clean all that out. when you get a sensor out, use it as a magnet and realize how much metal could screw up your .8mm gap if it collects on the sensor! it doesnt take much as it stacks up on the magnetic sensor. i think you could use boltcutters on the bracket too. anyway. get that sucker out. heading home to work on the bike. hear from you this weekend, we all hope!:D |
ps, leather gloves are recommended when using hammers and chisels, and other sharp man toys. safety goggles!!
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If you cut the fulcrum how do you plan to set the gap? TIME OUT. Wait until tomorrow and sleep on it. Does it pivot at all up and down to normally set the gap? There has to be some movement...
The saw and chisel are your last desperate measure. I hope you stopped in time. John_AZ |
well John_AZ i only plan to cut a little piece off the tube not the whole thing so I'll still be able to set the gap once i get everything back in, I'm all out of ideas and i don't want to break the bracket because I'll have to look for another one and that's just something thats not in my plans hopefully tomorrow when i go at it again it will slide right out and i wont have to do any cutting
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h8tr_
Here are more pictures to give you a new perspective from www.Clarks-Garge.com: http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/ign-02.htm The fulcrum is really called-----the tensioning sleeve and is available as well as the bracket: http://dcauto.gotdns.com/illustration/index/203490748 GL John_AZ |
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