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Hatch struts
I keep reading threads saying not to put new hatch struts on because it will damage the glass seal. What's up with that. My hatch keeps falling on my head. Looks stupid with a stick under it.
Anyone replace these?
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87 924S 107k (miles) yellow 1969 Firebird Coupe (Full frame off restoration.) 98 BMW 740i 2020 Subaru Outback and 2019 Crostrek. |
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,003
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Look at the hatch and think about how it would get pulled if you applied force to the rear of the hatch. New shocks ruined my hatch and I'm not taking any chances with the replacement
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 3,347
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I risked it. Put on some new ones late last summer. Do note that left and right are DIFFERENT should you proceed with replacing. It is a bit of a shock to see the hatch launch right up when triggered, just like when new. It WILL require two hands and some force to close compared to your old worn out struts.
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1970 914-6 Past: 2000 Boxster 2.7, 1987 944, 1987 924S 1978 911SC, 1976 914 2.0, 1970 914 w/2056 |
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Cogito Ergo Sum
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My factory struts are still plenty strong, they have caused my hatch to leak for the second time. I no longer hook them up, I got my hands on hatch that is still factory and doesn't leak. I plan to beef the urethane up a bit and then put that hatch on my car. I may use the one off my car as a donor frame for the race car....
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The hatch seal probably fails for two reasons, the struts pushing it backwards and just plain old gravity with a big piece of glass sliding downhill and being jostled constantly. The hatch frame develops a slight bend near the 45 degree angle because of these forces. The hatch frame gets slightly longer and the glass separates from it at the top. New struts will certainly accelerate this. (this is just a theory)
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All Spooled Up
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Between NE and Central PA
Posts: 2,516
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Quote:
So did I. It was like a year ago, with no problems (yet, anyways). But I do have replacement hatch, if I do run into any problems. I think having to prop it up using a stick or whatever, puts the same (or even more) stress on the frame.
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>gray 89 951S - K27/8, MAF, 3" intake, 3" exhaust w/separate waste pipe, 55# inj, late cam; >red 87 924S - chip, K&N, punched-out cat&muffler >black 80 924 - (sold) >maroon 77 924 - auto (sold) |
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 49
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I have only had 3 944s and I have replaced the rear hatch struts on each car. You are right, looks stupid with the hatch sagging or you design a custom "hatch support". I went to my local AutoZone Part #B95514 (Mighty Lift)and have them order a set from their warehouse. cost $47.98. each. Installed in 1/2 an hour. I needed to play with rear window defroster connections (but who needs that anyway?). The first time done I got a pleasant suprise..... With the new struts and the new found lift, my electric latch actually worked. NOW THAT IS COOL when you can reach in , hit the switch, and the rear hatch opens. (beats the beans out of the "designer support")
So go ahead, make your day and change them. It is worth it. (helps sell the car every time) Jim. Also check out the #D251 Duralast Brake Pads for $15.99 and a "lifetime " warranty. You can't lose. |
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Cogito Ergo Sum
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Dude, cheap brake pads are just that... Cheap....
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 49
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but they still work.
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Thanks for the feedback. I think I'm going ahead with replacements. I use my defrost in fall and spring and one side electrical connector is no good anyway. Glass can be resealed. I really like the idea of using the auto hatch release and it opens on it's own. I never saw this as mine were never strong enough.
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87 924S 107k (miles) yellow 1969 Firebird Coupe (Full frame off restoration.) 98 BMW 740i 2020 Subaru Outback and 2019 Crostrek. |
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Back from Beyond
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 2,697
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My $.02CDN (which is almost on par in the US!):
Once you start resealing your hatch you'll be doing it once every 2nd summer. It'll take a leisurely afternoon but it can a stressful job the first time. And once the delamination takes hold you'll be chasing it forever. I wouldn't bother with strong new hatch shocks as they'll just make the damage happen that much faster. Yeah, it's trick to have a hatch raise itself, but after the first time you fight with resealing it the novelty will wear off. Lifetime brake pads? Beware - maybe they're lifetime because they wear much more slowly than the rotors, and you'll be trashing them instead. Pads are easier to change (at least on the early cars).
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'88 944 Auto - project, kinda '87 944 Auto - died saving my wife '84 944 5SP - crushed under shop roof during snow storm All others GONE! |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: In a dumpster behind Albertson's in Los Angeles County
Posts: 2,132
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Quote:
As for the $15.99 Duralast brake pads, I put them on a 1999 Dodge Stratus, and they were worn out within a year....and that was literally on my 84 year old mothers car. Cheap is CHEAP, NOT good or better.
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1989 944 NA Glacier Blue - SOLD IT 1989 944 S2 Alpine White T-Boned (totaled) by a lady dressed in a CLOWN costume (RIP ![]() 1988 944 Turbo S Silver Rose Metallic, K27/6, Vitesse MAF, Tial 38mm DP WG Semper Fi |
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 49
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OOPs. you guys are right. My mistake I purchased 2 set at $47 per set. ($23.99 each lift). I hope you understand my direction to put new and it is worth it.
As for pads and rotors. There are all kinds of combinations out there. You can come up with a great value. Sorry for your mom. Maybe you let her have one of your 944.... she might like it. Enjoy the ride |
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Proprietoristicly Refined
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: ~Carefree Highway~
Posts: 5,833
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Low price brake pads may work but I prefer pads that do not "shed" brake pad dust on my phonedials. John
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1988 924S, 85,750K ..+ 1987 924S, 154K DD (+15K est. bad odo) |
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Changed my hatch struts, wow what a difference,
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1984 944, 2.5L, manual transmission, UK right hand drive. http://944foot2thefloor.blogspot.com/ |
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