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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Laguna Vista
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Couple of helpful hints

In my endeavors lately I have re-discovered a lot of things I knew about the car and had forgotten. Here are 2 that I think will be useful.
1. It really helps with the removal and installation of the intake manifold if you cut a notch in the holder for the dip stick as it is a major pain to reinstall after the intake is put back in. I used a cut off wheel.


2. If you are bleeding the brakes using a vacuum system rather than a power bleeder do this:
unscrew the bleed nipple 1/4 inch and put some lithium grease on the threads and then screw it back in. Also put lithium grease around the whole nipple. This will prevent you from drawing in air with the fluid, as air can get in around the threads of the nipple. Which then produces false bubbles in the fluid stream.




BTW here is what a tap on the knock sensor looks like if the sensor is working.
Sox


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"Little problems always come back and bring bigger friends with them".
1986 951"MADDOG" black with maroon interior
All stock with shimmed WG
Old 07-30-2018, 08:12 PM
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Did the clutch bleed using the motive power bleeder..
no competition, blows the vacuum method away.
Sox
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"Little problems always come back and bring bigger friends with them".
1986 951"MADDOG" black with maroon interior
All stock with shimmed WG
Old 08-01-2018, 04:09 PM
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I love the motive bleeder. Clutch master and slave are on my list for next week (along with TB, WP, tie rods, wheel bearings, fuel filter, trans fluid, Motor mounts, paint the fuchs and have tires mounted and balanced, etc....)

Actually, want to come live in Seattle for a week? I won't pay you, you can stay in a hot attic in a house full of screaming birds and children, and we stopped drinking so I can't even offer you beer.
Old 08-01-2018, 04:41 PM
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Derek,
It's triple digits here...
You make it sound un-resistible (Not)..Have fun good luck. Since I just went through this process among others. I will let have all the fun
Sox
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"Little problems always come back and bring bigger friends with them".
1986 951"MADDOG" black with maroon interior
All stock with shimmed WG
Old 08-01-2018, 04:52 PM
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I'm looking forward to it. I've been reading your threads, and you do really nice work. Much more clean than I am sure I will be (what's your secret to cleaning everything so well?), and a good reminder of all the stuff I'm going to find "while I'm in there"
Old 08-01-2018, 11:28 PM
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Derek,
Thank you but the work I do is literally "standing on shoulders of giants". The guys on this forum have really been the source of my ability to clean or do many of the tasks I did.
Here is a list of items to use for cleaning/polishing.
Number one is patience, get in a hurry and mess something up and you are at best redoing or buying new parts.

plastic putty knife.
Dull (very important) putty knife. Use on gaskets very carefully, will scratch aluminum.
Variety of brass bristle brushes, from tooth brush size and up.
Rolock discs, 80 grit and 120 grit. Yellow and white.
Scotch pads (Blue).
Plastic wire brush (for high speed drill).
Actual tooth brush. Preferably not the one you will use on your teeth later

Solvents:
Simple green, use freely.
Acetone, use on most parts that do not have rubber or plastic in them.
De-natured alcohol use freely, though some paint surface won't like it.
Brake parts cleaner, use carefully only on all metal unpainted parts.

Expect your hands to suffer even if you have the patience to wear gloves (use a 9 mil one as it rips less often).

Don't force anything if it is not coming out or going in check for interference.
If you don't own these get or borrow them, 2 torque gauges. 1 for 10 to 150 Ft/Lbs can be click type. 1 for around 50 to 250 In/Lbs this one should be a balance bar type for accuracy.

Light sources, I like like incandescent for the light color, but it does put out a lot of heat. One bright led flash light, as small and narrow as you can get.

Mag pick up tools various. Get at least one that has a light built into it's end.

Mirror on the end of a swivel extension rod.

Breaker bars and cheater pipes to go on them for "Persuasion" of really stubborn issues.*

My personal favorite a well stocked garage fridge. (Do not use * items after using fridge for multiple beverages)

Optional, a good supply of cuss words.

Finally orange hand cleaner, ( I have been using it as a whole body pre rinse before showering).

Your List:
Clutch: Do a brake flush will you are all hooked up for the clutch flush/bleed. Though it's tempting to buy brake fluid in larger bottles for the cost savings, I would recommend buy 1 large one 32 Oz or so and buy 2 or 3 8 Oz ones. As you can't save an opened bottle and through away clean (expense) fluid is painful.
Wp: Do belts and rollers, may be a good time for the front of engine seals. Coolant hoses at the front of the car. Flush and pressure test the coolant system.
TB: clean the TPS contacts on the connector and and housing with a brush and acetone. When you put it back on zip tie the hose at the bottom of the TB that goes to the thermo sithch. Test your BOV at this time.
Tie rods: put new boots on them even if the old ones are not torn, dirt and grime builds up in there. Inspect the bushings in the control arms along with the ball joints and the bushings in the sway bar.
Wheel bearings: I would point you to the thread in the sticky at the start of the forum.
Fuel filter: Test the fuel pump for pressure and delivery volume.
Trans fluid: I made a contraption with PVC and a funnel to get the liquid in there, can post pic if you need me to.
Motor mounts: Bless you child replace what ever you find cracked, broken, brittle or if it looks at you side ways.
Post as you go so if any one reading sees where you are at and some thing occurs to them they can chime in.
Apologies for grammatical/orthographic errors this is a lot of typing for us 2 finger typists
See you when you emerge for air.
Sox
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"Little problems always come back and bring bigger friends with them".
1986 951"MADDOG" black with maroon interior
All stock with shimmed WG

Last edited by soxnail; 08-02-2018 at 08:41 AM.. Reason: Missed some stuff
Old 08-02-2018, 08:22 AM
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wish I had see the first idea...

forgot to put the dip stick tube back in when I had the intake off. now have to hold it when checking the oil. finally got the idea to duct tape to the heat shield to hold it down.

all good suggestions.
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84 928S, Ruby Red linen/brown interior - preferred DD
85 911 Targa, White Gold/brown int - retired from track.
86 944 turbo my new DE/track car.
78 930 clone project car.
Old 08-05-2018, 09:00 AM
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BTW Sox - I did start a thread for my TB job. It ain't pretty! There's a lot of little stuff I didn't post in that thread as well.

Timing belt ordeal
Old 08-08-2018, 12:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 911tracker85 View Post
wish I had see the first idea...

forgot to put the dip stick tube back in when I had the intake off. now have to hold it when checking the oil. finally got the idea to duct tape to the heat shield to hold it down.

all good suggestions.

Itís ok that you forgot to put the dipstick tube back in while you had the intake off. Just use a Dremel with a cutting wheel to take out enough metal BELOW the bolt hole to open it up all the way to the bottom.

Now, all you have to do is loosen the bolt a few threads, and slide the dipstick and tube into the oil pan. Do this while hooking your new channel that you cut OVER the bolt. When itís in and seated, put a little downward pressure on the dipstick while simultaneously tightening the bolt. Remember, you only backed it out by a few threads, so tightening is easy. Done.
Old 08-08-2018, 01:45 AM
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Derek,
Ah so, I thought TB = throttle body.
Sox
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"Little problems always come back and bring bigger friends with them".
1986 951"MADDOG" black with maroon interior
All stock with shimmed WG
Old 08-10-2018, 09:44 AM
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Ah, yes, I should have clarified Anyhow, putting the car back together today. We shall see if the oil leaks are gone!
Old 08-10-2018, 05:00 PM
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Further in the helpful dept.
These bulbs are used in the instrument panel and are hard to find, so here is a quick easy way to substitute:



Push the tabs in on either side and pull the bulb out of its socket.



Cut the bulbs electrodes that are pressure attached to the tabs.






Get substitute bulb, it is a#73.



Solder the tabs on to it. You will have to use sand paper on the electrodes of the new bulb to get it to "tin" I.E solder to stick to it.



Now insert back into socket, press in till tabs engage, and you have a new bulb/socket ready to go.
Sox
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"Little problems always come back and bring bigger friends with them".
1986 951"MADDOG" black with maroon interior
All stock with shimmed WG
Old 09-22-2018, 05:30 PM
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Send a message via AIM to mytrplseven
That's a great thing to share.
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3 944's, 2 Boxsters and one Caman S, and now one 951 turbo. Really miss the Cayman.

Some people try to turn back their "odometers." Not me. I want people to know 'why' I look this way. I've traveled a long way and some of the roads weren't paved.
Old 09-24-2018, 10:35 AM
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So some more stuff...
I had recently fixed the rear hatch power locking system (posted in another thread).
The issue I still had was that the hatch would unlock but not open on its own. I recall that being the case when it used to work back in the psychedelic 80's..
So here is a quick fix that worked for me.
The problem was that on one of my latches the pan head would catch on the a side and hence the hatch would not release and would have to be pulled up.
The dilemma was that yes I can adjust the latch to center the pan head, but which way to move it...move it the wrong way and and the hatch won't open even with a key. The only way to open it then was to crawl in through the back seat into the hatch and loosen the latch (2 M6 nuts ) and then it could be pulled open. (At my size this is not an option I would like to pursue often
So the solution occurred to me while the dentist was adjusting my new crown (on tooth not head).
He would put a blue dye on it and made me bite down, then examine where the crown was impacting my other teeth and be able to tell where to adjust.
So I put a piece of paper tape on the pan head. See pic



Sorry about the clarity stupid phone camera..
Then I used a spring loaded clamp to keep the latch unlocked all the time. See pic



Now I just closed and opened the hatch manually, kind of like chomping down in your mouth. The tape showed which side the pan head was catching the latch. See pic



Thus knowing which way to adjust I just loosened the 2 M6 nuts moved the latch that way and tightened it. See pic



No further twiddling needed worked like a charm. Push button in the car, presto hatch opens
Sox
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"Little problems always come back and bring bigger friends with them".
1986 951"MADDOG" black with maroon interior
All stock with shimmed WG
Old 10-08-2018, 06:20 PM
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