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That sound is odd. it almost sounds like you might have something hitting the chasis, exhaust or something moving? Can you feel it in the floor boards?
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I can't find it yet. that was why I was thinking loss flywheel bolt.
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most of the noise was the muffler tapping the engine cradle. After removing that noise I shorted the coils one at a time till I made the noise stop. Then I pulled the pan to take a look around. The number 7 cylinder has a bad wrist pin by the looks of it. However the walls look as good as all the others. There was no metal in the oil.
Actually the oil looked almost as clean as when I put it in. Looking for some advice. Can I pull and replace just the one wrist pin or do I need to do a complete rebuild? |
What is the history of the motor? I would second guess everything now and at a minimum do a bottom end rebuild. If not you might find yourself chasing your tail for months on other problems. My first LS1 engine had me second guessing my wiring harness, coils, MAF, Ect.. and ended up being the reluctor wheel. I lost over 6 months..
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I picked up a new (used) short block that came from a local guy's wrecked firebird.
All I need is new cam, rockers, lifters and push rods. This will be a much warmer and fun project for the winter. All I have to do is get everything in my nice warm clean basement. |
I would tear that used engine down and do a basic refresh, so you won't have any more surprises like this. All you'll need is a re-ring / bearing kit and some elbow grease. If it all measures to spec and inspects fine, you are good to go. If not, you just saved yourself another engine drop and a bunch of hassle. "Wrecked Firebird" doesn't sound like the engine had a good life. ;)
George |
If you guys would allow me to hijack this this thread for one question I need the help. (I tried to search.) I need to have my tachometer (1979 SC) re-calibrated for a 4 cylinder, coil on plug motor. I am sure you guys with LS swaps know how to do it. I know this info if here are on Pelican, but I can't find it. Thanks
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There is a tach out on the ecu. Download any aftermarket tach install instructions. They lay it out for you. Try SunPro gauges.
As for the engine. I am doing a full rebuild on the new block. Stroking it to a 383 with a cam. The build including stroking it just fell into my hands the past few days. Quote:
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REBEL911 were are you in ny.. I am in orange county.. Highland mills.
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I am on the other side of the state, Rochester.
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Hello Rebell911
I have just compleeted my ls1 swap and started it last monday:) but i had some clearence problems with the RH intake adapter and i thougt a littele body work was the way to go http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1290196077.jpg My engine started pretty easy and it sounded fine i must be lucky (or talented) Link to my first start:YouTube - porsche 911 v8 første opstart The spelling is Danish as i come from Denmark!!! Have a nice weekend |
sirhiss, where is the clearance problem. i am doing a similar swap but with an ls7 and will run a ducktail..will the standard 911 engine cover clear the ls intake if it is reversed? any of you LS conversion guys know?
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The problem was the throtle body and the intake adapter from Renegade Hybrids was sitting on the crossmember, yoy can call RH and hear them how they do? I think the intake will clear a normal ducktail if you reverse it and take the airfilter to one side. Good luck;)
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sirhiss, thanks for the reply. are you speaking of the 180 degree adaptor from RH. i am planning on running my intake system straight back into the backseat area. properly enclosed and supplied air via naca ducts in the lexan quarter windows..
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Intake clearance problem
I had the same issue. I used the 180 degree intake adapter that renegade provides. Even without the 180 intake part, my TB interfered a little with the top frame cross member. Here is a photo of the 'work' I had to do to make it clear.
I had to make a small dent in the frame and ground off the seam. Its not pretty at all, but it did work. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1291046386.jpg |
same issue with my conversion. I had thought it was because of my first intake setup and TB.
Has RH commented about this? |
You can hijack my thread if you post more pictures :) I want to see a 700Hp monster come to life.
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sorry for the lack of updates. I've been very busy lately. ( not on the car)
anywho. last summer the power was crazy on the car... I can't wait to get it on the road again. With a strong (stronger) LS1 (now LS6). So we all know the engine had issues. see below: how many things are wrong in this picture? http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/IMG_3219.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/IMG_3216.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/IMG_3214.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/IMG_3215.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/IMG_3223.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/IMG_3237.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/IMG_3240.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/IMG_3247.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/IMG_3248.jpg |
So I picked up another LS1 block... turned out to be a LS6 with the LS6 pistons less the cam. I am shopping for the cam now. I will be having the heads reworked also.
http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/IMG_3258.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/IMG_3256.jpg LS6 block http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/IMG_3260.jpg LS1 Block http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/IMG_3259.jpg positives: The LS6 shares its basic block architecture with the GM LS1 engine, but other changes were made to the design such as windows cast into the block between cylinders, improved main web strength and bay to bay breathing, an intake manifold and MAF-sensor with higher flow, a camshaft with higher lift and more duration, a higher compression ratio, sodium filled valves, and a revised oiling system better suited to high lateral acceleration. The LS1 pistons are made of a metal listed as "M124" - the LS6 pistons being "M142" which has a higher nickel and copper content. The LS6/m142 pistons are stronger and expand less under high temperatures, thus allowing them to reduce the bore clearance. Reducing oil consumption and increasing overall and high rpm durability. further information borrowed from Ruthless pursuit of power. Obviously, cutting windows at the bottom of each cylinder reduces the strength of the block’s key structural area, the main bearing bulkheads. With 40 more horsepower, 400-500 more rpm and even more powerful derivations of this engine to come, the block needed to be even stronger than it would be without the windows. It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to figure, in their ruthless pursuit of power, Dr. John and his engineers had to do more than simply reprogram their CNCs to cut those windows. Finite element design work along with a lot of thrashing engines to death (in a few cases, literally) on the dyno eventually resulted in the special LS6 block having both the bay-to-bay breathing windows and more overall strength than the LS1 block |
What heads are you using? And what tranny? G50 I hope. Those push rod motors are awesome. Just the fact that those get 650-700 hp without TOO much work is pretty impressive. They did many things right on these blocks. You may want to get an oil reserve sump or a dry sump system. These motors get dry when cornering hard and tend to starve the motor of oil. When this happens you'll be happy you have one of these. OR, you can keep buying more LS1s/LS6s. The reason why I know is because it happened with my friends LS1-RX7.
But, it's still a cam in block/push rod motor. The new Ruf motor is a wet dream compared to the LS motors. (Sorry, I had to add that :) |
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