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Is there a cost effective (and non intrusive) way to incorporate improved anti squat geometry in the rear suspension (a la 930)? 930 control arms are expensive and the Smart Racing control arm pivot boxes (I believe) require the rear seat area to be hacked up. IMHO, stiffer springs are in order anyway with your heavier engine, but if you can take advantage of anti squat geometry then you won't need to compromise with an overly stiff ride.
my two cents Keep up the great work! Tim K |
while the observation is interesting, my LS1 weighed in over 50 lighter than the old flat six (stripped LS1 in my car is 425#). A fully dressed LS engine is 34 pounds lighter than the flat six.
LS - 450# flat 6 - 488# When I look at the car the wheel gap looks right; not too squaty. My back seats are stripped however I had the cage/bracing set up so I can plug and play rear coilovers. I don't plan on putting in old tech if I want to maximize output. I do what to keep some of the old look. |
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Tim K |
I am not going to put out numbers till I have dyno sheets to prove the information.
i already have a certified weight for the car. If I post estimates there will be may too may non-believers. As for ride comfort, that's why I have a X5. as soon as i fit up a coil over set put we will see how it goes. That will be a winter project. |
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David |
Looks great - I like the fact you painted in yourself and in matte black.
I think the car needs to come down an inch in the front an 3/4 of an inch in the back. It may also be time to sell the Fuchs and get an aftermarket wheel that's at least 17". George |
Torque is a wonderful thing but we try and manage the negative side effects :).
Squat is a function of weight transfer (result of wheel torque) and suspension geometry. Generally speaking, squat will increase with wheel torque unless you adjust suspension geometry or move to stiffer springs. Now back to the build! Tim K |
with the wing on. This weekend I am painting the inside and jams. any red on the outside is either being covered by trim or on the plastic from the last spray job. It will be gone this weekend.
wind shield, lights, bumpers are also planned. I want to get it inspected next week. http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1281130575 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1281130580 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1281130588 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1281130593 |
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Thats good. mine was a salvage when i turned it into a slant nose even then. i felt bad once i found out they only made about 120 turbo targas total.
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EFI intake
I've been watching with great interest over the last few months the progress some of you guys are making. I'm finishing up the bodywork on my '74 coupe and then will be ready to do my LS2 conversion. I'm going with RH and a front radiator.
I had to take a break from a long summer of sanding to at least trial fit my engine and I wanted to share the success I've had with my choice of intake. I've got the Edelbrock pro flow XT EFI manifold on my LS2 ( part #71403). It easily clears the oil pressure boss so no need for modification there. I've also got the original 90mm throttle body and am using Specter Performance's elbow ( Part #9781). I'm very happy with this setup, not even close with any clearance (of course I'm running a rear spoiler as the manifold sticks out of the lid) Time to take the motor back out and finish sanding the body (that's why everything in my pictures are covered with dust) Will have paint soon then can finish my mechanicals. I want to thank shanghai_todd, mbaran, Rebel911, mkingham, and bunch of other guys on this forum who have helped me plan this project. I'll start my own thread when I have a little more to offer. Thanks againhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1285042421.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1285042433.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1285042449.jpg |
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the 15's are going this winter.
I like Rotornut1's build looks clean. Well, lets play name that noise... any ideas? I have 50 psi of oil pressure at ideal and good rising pressure when accelerating. Engine is cool to warm as I only drove it ~200 yards to record the sound. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMLyinXhW6U Forgot pics of the car now and the new pan. The rear window is going for dark tint tomorrow. http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1286143455 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1286143462 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1286143465 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1286143470 Old pan http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1286143366 New pan http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1286143435 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1286143441 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1286143545 |
sounds like a lose rod.
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Or flywheel bolt... balls
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You might cut the oil filter apart and look for desbris as signs of a rod bearing being chewed up.
Is there anything hitting/rubbing the chassis which you overlooked? |
Second thought: Is there a baffle or something different about that oil pan that could be mis-aligned or flipped up that is hitting the rod?
I would remove the pan and start checking for a scared area or lose rod. |
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I am going to 1st short each coil, one at a time, to check to see if it is rod knock. Next I am pulling the valve cover and oil pan to check for cover wear. Last I am going to pull the engine to check the flywheel bolts. nice! good thing my wife is going to a retreat with her sister this weekend. |
i just saw a 944 with an ls1 this weekend at a DE. he said it had not hit the dyno as he had just finished a week ago or so but his estimation was 400hp/400ftlb. poor guy has clutch problems and could not go out on sunday but we had been sharing the same instructor who said it was like being belted to a rocket.
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