random pics that YOU have taken.......

[URY914]

Yesterday at Amelia Island Ritz Carlton....

[URY914]

Found in the Amelia Island Ritz Carlton parking garage...

[944 S2]

[bmcuscgr94]

[bmcuscgr94]

[kach22i]

Having more fun with my model and aerodynamic concepts.

[svandamme]

I would argue that the wing's effectiveness is counteracted by it's placement.

The further to the center, the bigger it has to be for the same ampount of useful effect on the rear suspension.

So more drag at high speeds for less effect at slower speeds when you need it (cornering).

[kach22i]

Originally Posted by svandamme

I would argue that the wing's effectiveness is counteracted by it's placement.

The further to the center, the bigger it has to be for the same ampount of useful effect on the rear suspension.

So more drag at high speeds for less effect at slower speeds when you need it (cornering).

Interesting.

I suppose that's true from one perspective, the maximum moment arm argument.

On the other hand, the closer to the center of mass (center of gravity), the more optimum, putting size or effectiveness argument to the side for a moment, preventing dumbbell effects aka Porsche 928 can be desirable.

Think of some of the 1960's and 1970's aerodynamic examples Chaparral produced for Can-Am. One had a big wing right in the middle. And more currently the Formula Electric cars have mid-wings proposed for next season I believe.

Here is a better image from the top in any case.



We might be talking 6-inches in from a Ducktail, and 12-inches inboard from a full whale tail.

Anyway, if you want to have a discussion on it, join me in the thread below.

Porsche 911 Ducktail - Study/Alternate - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum - EcoModder.com

I'm just tinkering with broad and general ideas right now. It's not a design I want to have picked over here until I've worked through it more. Just having fun at the moment.

[CurtEgerer]

First of the McLaren MP4 series, the MP4/1 in 1983. The carbon tubs were from Hercules Aerospace in the USA back then.

[john70t]

Originally Posted by svandamme

I would argue that the wing's effectiveness is counteracted by it's placement.

The further to the center, the bigger it has to be for the same ampount of useful effect on the rear suspension.

So more drag at high speeds for less effect at slower speeds when you need it (cornering).

That looks like an active wing.
Maybe it is very lightweight and controlled by a computer.
(see the extra strut at the rear to change angle.)

On the fast and strait sections...the flat wing might be in the flat position to reduce drag...or angle upwards slightly to reduce down-force...and air/wheel bearing friction.

On heavy braking it pushes up...and the front end gets maximum grip...regardless of everything else.

[john70t]

(forgot pic post of numerous computer problems. There seems to be a pattern.)

[id911T]

[bugstrider]

Originally Posted by Baz

The other day I backed up to my landscape trailer and got the ball perfectly located on the first try - and no I don't have one of those cameras in back!



Like a boss!

Nicely done!

Although, this comes to mind...



Here is the extent of my expertise with greenery at our place. Cleaning up the mess left behind those pesky bark beetles....






https://youtu.be/RWQcz7VDBMk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[p911dad]

[Baz]

I just purchased a new batch of 12v Par 36 LED bulbs for landscape lighting purposes.

Usually when you buy this type of bulb you buy it with the plastic housing (sometimes they are made of brass, etc. for 'upscale' applications) which also employs a metal bracket inside that the bulb snaps into....and also has pivots so you can tilt the bulb as needed.

So this time I bought just the bulbs with no housings.

Since this type of light is meant to go in the ground and flush with the surface (they are usually referred to as 'well lights') I need some type of housing for them. I could buy the housings themself but they run around $20 each and to be honest I never liked their design - the metal bracket inside tends to corrode for one thing.

So tonight I was looking at some stuff I had laying around and for the heck of it took a section of flexible 4" drainage pipe to see if it might work for a housing. Lo and behold, the bulb sits just about flush with the diameter - so I'm going to go ahead and try to mock one of these up for trial purposes.

Remember that because these are LED they don't heat up like a traditional halogen bulb does. So I think I can affix the bulb right to the tubing.

I can also drill a 1/4" hole in the side for the cable to enter/exit. Cut them about 10" long so 6" can be below ground with 4" sticking up to allow for mulch.

Going to be interesting.....but if it works I'll be set!

[Ngrich99]

Originally Posted by id911T

Similar.

[bugstrider]

[Racerbvd]

[Baz]

Followup on my post above about the Par 36 LED light housing.....I glued it to that piece of the tubing last night and when I came home today, it felt like it was very tightly fastened, so next step is to put her in the ground and see if the glue holds up.

I hooked it up to a test cable I have out back and it's working great!

I'm very impressed with this glue so far, BTW.

This is crazy cool stuff!!!

[MBAtarga]

I bet that glue tube is expensive. I'd look in the product aisle for a caulk gun cartridge of a silicone based sealer/glue as an option.