3.2 60 days sitting, bad miss under load

[198491132]

Sorry, spell check.....ohms are 490 on cyl temp at 45 degrees. Ref and speed 398 and 397.

Last measurement 20k ago on red and speed where 461 for both.

Corrected.......

[198491132]

Thanks for the fuel pressure tips. I do not have a gauge, but have been meaning to get one. Any recomendations welcome. AFM was replaced 1000 miles ago, but will test.

Dave

[EFullerton]

I agree with Bruce, the injectors gum up in short time. For several years after winter storage, my 3.2 would come to life a little rough and down a cylinder and after a few minutes the crud would break free. It would sometimes take a tap or two on the injectors to help them along. I found that removal and a good immersion cleaning in my 1.5 Qt? Harbor Freight Ultrasonic cleaner with Simple Green did the trick.
Good luck!
Eric

[198491132]

Sal....AFM tests good, but not higher then 4.2 volts full open.

Question on wire resistance comes to mind. If 4 and 5 are 4500 ohms, why is 6 at 3100? One would think they would be the same on the right side....

Dave

[198491132]

Update: New plugs, New wires, New cap and rotor. Root problem still exsists. 5 gallons of fresh full with an additional fuel system cleaner. Fuel filter also changed out, I had a spare. Auto zone has a fuel gauge offer of free loaner for 90 days. Just need to find the proper fitting or use the hose clamp method.

3 of the injectors seem a bit loose. Vacuum check by pulling oil cap, engine rpms drop.

Should the injectors move easily??

Dave

[jlex]

Regarding the fuel pressure gauge request....
Fuel Pressure Guage / Tester (14mm) [FPT1 (14mm)] - $35.00 : ArnnWorx Specialty Tools

[198491132]

Throwing Fluke against the wall. Seems I have a goofy Fluke 77. Been 20 years...so I got What I deserved.

Accurate readings...

Ref sensor 965 ohms
Speed sensor 958 ohms

Cyl head sensor 0 ohms. Most be an open causing rich burn.

This is replaced from under car correct?

Dave

[jlex]

Correct. If I recall, it follows the same path into the car as the speed and reference sensors. Kinda like removing an O2 sensor: can use an open socket for the wire, or cut the wire & use a regular socket to remove.

[scarceller]

0ohms would be a shorted sensor and will indicate fully warm motor. Usually these sensors fail the other way, they open circuit (infinite resistance) and cause extremely rich condition because they trick the DME into seeing a cold motor. But in your case, if shorted out it will do the opposite and trick it into fully warm motor. If shorted it will result in horrible cold start but gets running better as it warms up.

The sensor is threaded into the back side of cyl #3 head.
Remove drivers side rear wheel and at the rear of the motor above the half shaft you will see 3 wires, 2 black wires going to the ref/speed sensors at the flywheel and then you'll see a white wire, that's the CHT sensor going to the head for cyl#3 you need to pull out the rubber boot that hides the sensor then un-thread it to take it out. I usually cut the wire down flush with the sensor so I can put a socket over the actual sensor to un-thread it.

Then install the new one by hand till it's tight with some blue lock tight on the threads. If you can get a wrench on it to tighten it do that. If not a long pair of large needle nose pliers and snug it up just a tad.

Be sure to get the latest 2 wire CHT sensor.

Originally Posted by 198491132

Throwing Fluke against the wall. Seems I have a goofy Fluke 77. Been 20 years...so I got What I deserved.

Accurate readings...

Ref sensor 965 ohms
Speed sensor 958 ohms

Cyl head sensor 0 ohms. Most be an open causing rich burn.

This is replaced from under car correct?

Dave

[198491132]

Sal, thanks. I stand corrected....open loop

Pulling wheel now.

[198491132]

I wouldn't mind using a socket to snug up the new one. Is that just a 13m deep with a slit up the side for the wire?

Thanks, Dave

[scarceller]

Yup, you need a socket with a slice up the side to fit the wire past.

Originally Posted by 198491132

I wouldn't mind using a socket to snug up the new one. Is that just a 13m deep with a slit up the side for the wire?

Thanks, Dave

[scarceller]

While inspecting in that area, look closely to be sure the ref and speed sensor harnesses are in good shape.

Originally Posted by 198491132

Sal, thanks. I stand corrected....open loop

Pulling wheel now.

[brujo65]

just make one

[scarceller]

Yes, this home made socket will work for installing the new sensor but the old sensors can be stubborn to get out, I suggest cutting the wire on the old sensor and using a standard socket without the slit.

Originally Posted by brujo65

just make one

[198491132]

I am still waiting the arrival of my sensor, but went through my old records. I got 50k and 15 years from my previous "upgraded" replacement that was done in 2001. Does that seem like a regular life expectancy?

If the sensor is a two wire, then it is a 14m socket, correct?

Dave

[jlex]

Measured mine during lunch... yes, it's 14mm

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by 198491132

Update: New plugs, New wires, New cap and rotor. Route problem still exsists. 5 gallons of fresh full with an additional fuel system cleaner. Fuel filter also changed out, I had a spare. Auto zone has a fuel gauge offer of free loaner for 90 days. Just need to find the proper fitting or use the hose clamp method.

3 of the injectors seem a bit loose. Vacuum check by pulling oil cap, engine rpms drop.

Should the injectors move easily??

Dave

IIRC, I used a R134A refrigerant adapter to go to the port on the fuel rail. The threads were the same I think.

Also if you're questioning one injector, take an infrared thermometer and check the exhaust temps at each outlet. They should all be fairly uniform. If you have one out of range it might point to a clogged injector.

See, this is why I should read the entire thread! looks like you found the problem.

[198491132]

Thanks All, finally getting back to this effort. Got a 14m slotted socket, went to instal the new sensor. Tighten up and tested before fishing the wires up through the engine compartment. Tested open! Bad out of the box. Working on replacement now with our host.

Are these sensors that easily damaged? Only got 50k from the last one and now this failure.

Dave

[scarceller]

Are you certain it reads open? Be sure the meter is set correctly. I've never had one dead out of the box. Try a different ohm meter if you can. At room temp it should read about 2,000 to 3,000 ohms.

Originally Posted by 198491132

Thanks All, finally getting back to this effort. Got a 14m slotted socket, went to instal the new sensor. Tighten up and tested before fishing the wires up through the engine compartment. Tested open! Bad out of the box. Working on replacement now with our host.

Are these sensors that easily damaged? Only got 50k from the last one and now this failure.

Dave