need major help again!!!!

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by vdubr928

Black somke is usually fuel (rich) problem. Blue is usually oil. Set your timing after you double check all your vacuume lines. Then drive the car a few miles. Your computer is still learning your mixture settings. If that doesn't fix let us know.

Whew, this is good to know. Blue is what you don't want to see.

[vdubr928]

I don't like running that much advance. Tend to stick to stock settings on a stock car. Less problems. detonation is a really bad problem and you never know when your local fuel station (or the only one for 50 miles) will be out of higher octane gas. Not saying he's wrong just that I don't like taking the risk.

I think 10 ppl are posting on this thread right now

[paintballer317]

ok, heres what i did, step by step...

1. removed fuel rails
2.lossened distributor enough to slide
3. removed spider-pipes removed intake manifold
4. replaced vacuum lines one at a time
5. replaced diagphram damper
6. removed throttle body and cleaned
7. reinstalled throttle body
8 reinstalled intake manifold freshly powdercoated
9 reinstalled spider-pipes freshly powdercoated with brand new gaskets

it didnt run and so i posted in this thread

i switched the 2 hoses that attach to the back of the throttle body and it started and ran with high idle rpm and black smoke but i figured it was ok cuz it wasnt warm yet.

installed the airbox and connected MAF- resulted in not starting

rechecked the vacuum lines but all seemed good



the smoke seemed like a timing thing to me. and when it was idleing, i had the timing light hooked up and working off the #1 wire, but i couldnt see the marks, they were on the underside of the wheel at idle. i figured it would spin around when at 3000 rpm but never got a chance to try.

if it jumped a tooth, it would explain the smoke, and the timing marks not lining up right? maybe ill move the tooth back and see if it works, if not, move it 2 the other way, if not, put it back and try something else?


ill also try to unconnect the MAF see if it runs again, if it does, this means my timing is off and its barly getting enough air when unrestricted my the MAF and under better timing it would run better and hopefullly with no smoke? it seems like everything right now is pointing toward a time issue?

are there timing marks on the teeth inside the distributor? or will i have to do the TDC of #1 and point the rotor toward #1 then rotate distributor? either way shouldnt take me very long, it doesnt seem too hard.

sorry for the long post but thanks so much for the help

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by paintballer317

or will i have to do the TDC of #1 and point the rotor toward #1 then rotate distributor?

Yup, do this one with the "ALL" marks lining up. Cams, Harmonic Balancer and Distributor. Borrow a camera and take pics of all marks lining up.

[Danglerb]

Replacing vacuum lines one at a time is great, if the previous owner had them hooked up right. Get a vacuum diagram and double check all of them.

[paintballer317]

why do i have to make sure "ALL" the timing marks line p if just the ignition is off? shouldnt i just have to line up the spark correctly to the cylinders? or is it just precautionary? can someone show me some pics of the timing marks so i know what im loking for when i do this?

do i need to remove all spark plugs to turn the engine? and its a 27MM socket correct? and all i do is turn it till all the marks line up, then turn the rotor until it points to the #1 spark plug wire, then it should be close enough to use a timing light? last time i messed with timing on anything i really screwed things up : / i dont want that to happen to this car so i just want to be 100% sure of what im doing

[928worldwide]

Posting for help is great isn't it! Luckily my cars are reliable for the most part or I'd be at it all the time too.

Good luck Bro.

[paintballer317]

my car was reliable too until i messed it up. anyway, back to the help...

thats what i need to to do time it right?

[rhjames]

yep---time it right, just as I described in my earlier post.

make sure the vacuum hoses are correctly routed as well.

--Russ

[Fabio421]

Originally Posted by paintballer317

ok, heres what i did, step by step...

1. removed fuel rails
2.lossened distributor enough to slide
3. removed spider-pipes removed intake manifold
4. replaced vacuum lines one at a time
5. replaced diagphram damper
6. removed throttle body and cleaned
7. reinstalled throttle body
8 reinstalled intake manifold freshly powdercoated
9 reinstalled spider-pipes freshly powdercoated with brand new gaskets

it didnt run and so i posted in this thread

i switched the 2 hoses that attach to the back of the throttle body and it started and ran with high idle rpm and black smoke but i figured it was ok cuz it wasnt warm yet.

installed the airbox and connected MAF- resulted in not starting

rechecked the vacuum lines but all seemed good



the smoke seemed like a timing thing to me. and when it was idleing, i had the timing light hooked up and working off the #1 wire, but i couldnt see the marks, they were on the underside of the wheel at idle. i figured it would spin around when at 3000 rpm but never got a chance to try.
if it jumped a tooth, it would explain the smoke, and the timing marks not lining up right? maybe ill move the tooth back and see if it works, if not, move it 2 the other way, if not, put it back and try something else?


ill also try to unconnect the MAF see if it runs again, if it does, this means my timing is off and its barly getting enough air when unrestricted my the MAF and under better timing it would run better and hopefullly with no smoke? it seems like everything right now is pointing toward a time issue?

are there timing marks on the teeth inside the distributor? or will i have to do the TDC of #1 and point the rotor toward #1 then rotate distributor? either way shouldnt take me very long, it doesnt seem too hard.

sorry for the long post but thanks so much for the help

• Which diaphram did you replace?

Not really relevant here but your car has an AFM not a MAF
Are you sure you had it hooked up to the #1 wire? #1 is the front passenger side wire
Yes, you can turn the engine to TDC and then align the distributor to #1. This will either put you at #1 TDC or 180 degree out

[rhjames]

could have been he didn't hook timing light to #1---good point Fab.....

#1 cylinder would be PASSENGER side, front of car.


--Russ

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by paintballer317

why do i have to make sure "ALL" the timing marks line p if just the ignition is off? shouldnt i just have to line up the spark correctly to the cylinders? or is it just precautionary? can someone show me some pics of the timing marks so i know what im loking for when i do this?

do i need to remove all spark plugs to turn the engine? and its a 27MM socket correct? and all i do is turn it till all the marks line up, then turn the rotor until it points to the #1 spark plug wire, then it should be close enough to use a timing light? last time i messed with timing on anything i really screwed things up : / i dont want that to happen to this car so i just want to be 100% sure of what im doing

I just want you to show us that you have it "ALL" timed right. Your not going to make any changes just yet. This is why I said take pics of it, so we can move on or explain how to get the time all lined up. Remember, we are only trying to help, you can always do what you want and possibly f&^% it up worse. I will look for a pic of where I found mine was off.

[vdubr928]

Where are you located?

[paintballer317]

Originally Posted by MPDano

I just want you to show us that you have it "ALL" timed right. Your not going to make any changes just yet. This is why I said take pics of it, so we can move on or explain how to get the time all lined up. Remember, we are only trying to help, you can always do what you want and possibly f&^% it up worse. I will look for a pic of where I found mine was off.

ok, thats fine, i really appreciate the help. ill take pics of the marks, im sure when i remove the plastic cam covers ill be able to see the marks. the diaphram i replaced is the diaphram damper that is between the fuel rails in front of the engine. its part of the fuel line. i replaced it because it had a clamp on the vacuum line attaching to it, now it doesnt.

[IMG][/IMG]

theres only one vacuum line to the distributer.
the thing with the clamp is the diaphram damper i replaced.

i will get pics of the cam marks lined up to show you, and to make sure i adjust the distributer correctly.

[paintballer317]

Originally Posted by vdubr928

Where are you located?

trafalgar, indiana

[IMG][/IMG]

a tiny town somewhere inside the yellow circle

[MPDano]

Remove just your cam gear covers for the marks. This is also a good opportunity to get a good visual on your TB condition.

[MPDano]

Here you go brotha! The Arrows in "Green" are good to go. DO NOT use the marks pointed in Red Arrows as this is what made mine 180 degrees off.

[vdubr928]

Well damn. Can't exactly walk down the street and help you out. I would if I could. Off topic can anyone explain why do many ppl call that the dampner and many others call it the fuel pressure regulator. This part from 928 Specialist. In my opinion a trusted source.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-928-Billet-Adjustable-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em 14QQhashZitem3ef732af3cQQitemZ270435266364QQptZRac eQ5fCarQ5fParts

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by paintballer317

theres only one vacuum line to the distributer.

Yup, that's the same as mine.

[paintballer317]

Originally Posted by vdubr928

Well damn. Can't exactly walk down the street and help you out. I would if I could. Off topic can anyone explain why do many ppl call that the dampner and many others call it the fuel pressure regulator. This part from 928 Specialist. In my opinion a trusted source.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-928-Billet-Adjustable-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em 14QQhashZitem3ef732af3cQQitemZ270435266364QQptZRac eQ5fCarQ5fParts

because people dont know? the fuel pressure regulaters are located just underneath each end of the airbox. but they look EXACTLY the same as the damper. they have different purposes, different part numbers, different names, and work differently. i know this because i was told it was a regulator and bought 2 different regulators to replace it but they didnt work (cuz they arent the same) finally i figured it out. the only difference in looks is where the fuel line connects to it on the opposite side of the vacuum line, its all threads not the little needle looking thing that the rubber fuel line attaches to.