can't get timing belt on

morriss · 10-14-2009, 06:14 PM

So what's the trick? I got the new wp, Porkensioner, and oil pump sprocket on. I tried following the Porkensioner write-up where you put the belt over the tensioner pulley last, and then other advice saying to work it onto the 1-4 cam sprocket last. Neither has worked. There just doesn't seem to be enough slack to get the belt all the way on no matter which way I try. When I find just a smidgen somewhere and pull it tight, the teeth of the belt won't line up with all the sprockets. I spent nearly an hour earlier today and just had to walk away because I was getting so frustrated. Any tips?

EIPtuningR32 · EIPtuningR32's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by morriss

So what's the trick? I got the new wp, Porkensioner, and oil pump sprocket on. I tried following the Porkensioner write-up where you put the belt over the tensioner pulley last, and then other advice saying to work it onto the 1-4 cam sprocket last. Neither has worked. There just doesn't seem to be enough slack to get the belt all the way on no matter which way I try. When I find just a smidgen somewhere and pull it tight, the teeth of the belt won't line up with all the sprockets. I spent nearly an hour earlier today and just had to walk away because I was getting so frustrated. Any tips?

dude, iam SOOOO not looking forward to doing this job myself. "MOMMY!!"

Barbapapa · 10-14-2009, 06:22 PM

Is the tensioner commpressed with the grenade pin in place?
Is the belt seated in the crank pulley?
Has a cam rotated a little when the pulley was off?

morriss · 10-14-2009, 07:21 PM

Pin is in place, yes the belt is on the crank pulley, and yes the 1-4 cam turned about 7-8 teeth CCW when i took the old belt off. Using a 17mm wrench I rotate the 1-4 sprocket CW back to position while trying to put the belt on at the same time. I'm even using clamps to hold the belt on the cam sprockets while trying to fit it over the pulley. I have a hard time keeping the belt 100% tight between the crank and the oil pump as I route the belt the rest of the way; I even tried putting a large clamp on the crank to keep the belt on it, plus the clamps on the 2 cam sprockets.

Barbapapa · 10-14-2009, 07:27 PM

You need to tug on the belt as you're slipping it over to 1-4 pulley in order to pull the slack out between the oil pump and 5-8.

Niles · Niles's Garage

I've heard others leave a bolt or two out of the PorKensioner and leave it loose until the belt is routed. Then they insert the remaining bolts and tighten them up.

morriss · 10-14-2009, 07:31 PM

Oh man, believe me, I have tugged every which way possible! It makes me think I'm doing something wrong because I wouldn't think it would be this difficult. All I need is about 1/16 of an inch and I'd be able to slip it over the Porkensioner pulley.

Mrmerlin · 10-14-2009, 09:20 PM

please take a picture and post it.
dont force the belt on

2Quick4u928 · 10-15-2009, 05:51 AM

I also installed the new tensioner & was my first time, but after a bit of effort the belt slipped on. As all stated here make extra sure belt super tight with all the rounting up until the last sproket as you stated. You are doing ll correctly, but again make sure the tensioner piston if fully retracted. The last sproket, you need to angle the belt to the alignment of the tooth then gently tap it on with a rubber hammer or the handle end of a screwdriver.
Again you seem to be doing everything correctly and following the directions properly. After all is verified (Routing, timing marks, teeth), take the pressure off the tensioner locking pin and allow the rooler to apply its tension on the belt. do your measurement, then manually turn the motor and check all again according to the directions. Hope this helps, if I left anything out, someone interject thanks.

porken · 10-15-2009, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by morriss

I have a hard time keeping the belt 100% tight between the crank and the oil pump as I route the belt the rest of the way

This may be the problem. The belt must be tight between the crank gear, oil pump, and 5-8 cam gear in order to have enough slack for the other side. You may have to rotate the 5-8 gear CW a bit so you can grab the next tooth, in order to make it tight. You may need a helper to stop the gear from moving, or releasing the belt, while you string the belt over the 1-4 gear.

You can leave off the tensioner/damper until the belt is routed. That will give you a little more slack.

Once the belt is on, check all the cam gear marks! You may find that after all your hard work, the belt is off a tooth.

morriss · 10-15-2009, 03:26 PM

Barbapapa · 10-15-2009, 03:46 PM

You got it on?

Remember to install the plastic cover section behind the crank pulley!

usfromflorida · 10-15-2009, 04:09 PM

I have installed one on all 4 cars there is trick, at least for me.
Stuff a rag under the crank to hold belt in place.
Clips are good for the oil gear take the belt and Driver cam gear with wrench and move it back and engage belt so it's tight and cam is still on mark.
Now just place the belt on a 1/4 of the way on the cam and use your clips and hold in place.
Route the belt and when you get to the passenger side by leaving it on 1/4 on the drivers side the belt can slide on a lot easier. Just push the belt on with your fingers a little on both sides until its centered on the cams.
Try it it works.

morriss · 10-15-2009, 04:44 PM

You got it on?

Remember to install the plastic cover section behind the crank pulley!

I wish! The plastic cover was cracked pretty bad so I just took it off. I will try the various tips here tonight.

morriss · 10-15-2009, 07:38 PM

Success! Here's what it took.
1. I started the belt high up on the crank, at about 8-9 o'clock. Used a C-clamp to hold it in place.
2. Routed it past the the oil pump and up to the 5-8 cam sprocket. This is where a tiny bit of slack forms. Remembering a tip Mark Robinson (thanks Mark!) told me, I used a 17 mm socket and turned the sprocket 1 tooth CW past the mark. Once I got the belt on the sprocket, I then used the wrench to turn it CCW back to normal, which took up that tiny bit of slack. I clamped the belt to the sprocket.
3. Routed the belt under the water pump and up to the 1-4 cam sprocket. I had to use the wrench to turn this CW about 8 teeth because when I pulled the old belt off, this is the one that "fell." Just like I did on the driver's cam, I rotated the passenger sprocket 1 tooth CW past the mark so I could rotate it back once I got the belt on in order to pull the belt super tight. Put a clamp on it.
4. Routed it over the Pknsr pulley. It took some wiggling to get it on, but it when on after 30 seconds or so of messing with it.

Thanks for your help everyone.

Niles · Niles's Garage

Congratulations. Rotate the crank by hand 720 degrees and verify all of the timing marks still line up before you button it up or try to start it.

morriss · 10-16-2009, 04:08 AM

Yep, already rotated it 4 times so that I could check it twice. Things look good thus far. After work today I plan on finishing up on the Prknsr install directions (cranking engine for a few seconds, putting ground wire on, etc.) and then going back on with the front of the engine. I just hope I can remember how everything came off- this has been a 2 week process for me because I kept finding things that needed to be replaced and then had to order them and wait for them to arrive before I could continue. I put things in baggies like suggested and took pictures, but probably not enough of them. Wish me luck!

928SROCK · 10-16-2009, 05:28 AM

morriss what was the reason you started this job did somthing break or did u feel it was time to tackle this project? just wondering.

MPDano · MPDano's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by 928SROCK

morriss what was the reason you started this job did somthing break or did u feel it was time to tackle this project? just wondering.

By the looks of all that gunk in front of his engine, I would say all his work was way past due.

I would clean all that gunk better before you start buttoning it up. This way you can identify leaks easier.

Forget all that plastic cam covers, I've been running without all the covers for almost a year now with no issues.

morriss · 10-16-2009, 08:05 PM

It all started because the wp was going out. After getting inside, I found a tone of stuff that needed to be replaced. I have put all new hoses on, a new thermostat, heater valve, oil pump seals, oil pump sprocket, wp, tb, and Porkensioner. Like Dano said, it was just time for it to be done after 27 years. Hell, I'm only 4 years older than the car.
Leo- I'm right there with you. I'm leaving the covers off for a while so I'll be able to make sure all is okay after I get it back up and running. I'll put them on later, probably after I muster up enough courage to change out the cam seals.

Thanks for your help guys.